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429 install into 1968 montego wagon

52K views 429 replies 24 participants last post by  68xr7cat 
#1 ·
Hello everyone I have a 1971 429 motor that I am currently installing into my wagon. I know it's not a complete car build up or restore but I have some questions and would like some advice. I have what I think are thunderbird or boss motor mounts. They are the big wide ones that bolt right to the block. And I have bought frame mounts that bolt to the frame. I know I am missing the insulator which I was going to make myself because they are way to expensive for a hunk of metal I can make myself. Anyway I got the engine on the crane last night and lowered it down in my car, which is up on jack stands in my garage. To have my engine down far enough to get the power brake booster on and get the trans to fit as well as the gas pedal z bar to work my block mounts are basically sitting on my frame mounts. My question is how can there be a 4 inch tall insulator???? I'm dumbfounded! So I took the frame mounts off and lowered it in and have it sitting where I want it and it clears everything and I can get the top bolts in the trans. But the frame mounts on the block are about three inches away from the frame!! Does anyone have an pictures of what the mounts all bolted together and in the car look like??? I was going to buy the crites kit but that's 210$!! And it looks like it would make it too tall. My airplanes gonna already be sticking out of the hood. And any pictures of what your 429 looks like in your engine bay, spacing from the firewall and side to side but mostly I just want to see a pic of the engine in a mustang or whatever and see what the mounts look like. That's I appreciate it. Ned d to move past this so I can get going.
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#3 ·
Lower it into the hole until the oil pan is in the right place re ground clearance etc then go from there.
 
#4 ·
The motor mounts you have on the engine will not work at all. You need the crites mount kit. You use the original frame mounts and a plate that bolts to the engine then the insulator bolts to it. The mounts you have are for a big ford 429 swap.
 
#6 ·
Well that explains the size if the mounts then. So should I get motor mounts for a 429 mustang and just make up the engine plate or should I stick with the mounts I have right now and make a mount? They are half over my frame and half off the front side. Thanks Carl I'll have to check them out. Don't know if I really want cut out my frame though....

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#7 ·
Well I made some of my own frame mounts to fit those huge engine mounts on the 429. Worked out pretty good. Had the trans all In and fitted and my drive shaft I had made for the last engine I had in it and it actually is the right length and works so I just switched over the output shaft from the new c6. Went to put the trans on and couldn't get it to slide all the way forward to meet the engine. After an hour or so of getting frustrated I finally pulled it all back down and tried sticking the torque converter on the flywheel and the nub that sticks out on the back of the converter hits the crank and won't let it slide in that last 3/8 of an inch. So I guess I'm in for a now converter might as well just get a small stall one.

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#9 · (Edited)
Looks great! Glad to see somebody doing some old fashioned hot rodding.

Most 429/460's have a 1.375 pilot. Only the early models had the 1.850. 2500 stall is about right for most street applications in my opinion.

.
 
#12 ·
The 1.850 pilot fits at the outside edge of the flange. The deeper/smaller 1.250 hole is of no consequence. The later 1.375 pilot fits in the deeper hole, and the larger machined surface closer to the flange is only used for pilot bearings in manual applications.
 
#11 ·
Thanks Carl! I figured 4 hours of fab work beats 210$ for mounts. I used tube stock that I had and welded plates on each end to box it in and then bolted those onto the engine mounts. Then took flat plate of steel and marked chokes, drilled them and then welded them on so I don't have to fuss with a wrench up top and getting them past the mounts. Then lowered them engine down and tacked them on after putting trans on and get the crossmember in for the right angle. Then pulled it all out and welded it. Thast when I realized the torque converter wouldn't fit. Atleast I got somewhere tho! I guess I'll have to measure both and see what I got. I think the trans is out of a later model van with a 460. The flywheel that came with it didn't fit the 429 either.

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#13 ·
So just so I'm on the same page... by pilot hole are you talking about the crank? Or hole for the converter that fits on the splined shaft of the trans? I'm guessing your talking about the back of the crank. Are all the front parts of the converter that fit on the splined shaft the same size or does that need measured as well? Thbanks Carl!

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#27 ·
Newest photos!! She's sitting in there alright. Solid as a rock with those mounts I fabbed. Have a question of where to put my oil pressure gauge in the engine? Is it the hole in the top back behind the intake?

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#31 · (Edited)
Since there seems to be some confusion, I went out and measured a sampling of the crankshafts I have on hand. The results are below.

Casting.....inner.....outer
2Y...........1.250....1.848 (early 1968 460 crank)
3Y...........1.375....1.848 (later post 1979 crank)
4U...........1.375....1.825 (1973 429 crank)

As stated previously, the applicable pilot holes are 1.848 and 1.375. The other dimensions are inconsequential.

You could certainly machine down a 1.850 converter to fit one of the later cranks, or a 1.375 converter to fit an early crank, but why bother unless you've already got the wrong part and you're unable to exchange it for the right one?

Hope this helps.
 
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