Originally Posted by hookedonpullin
Does anyone have a cutter that uses the valveguide as a guide that I could rent. One like Kaase sells. Thanks
I've posted this before, have used it and it really works well, plus it is inexpensive and a lot more 'forgiving' than the steel cutters.. I got the idea off of FordMuscle.com...tech section.
Take an oversize valve and glue a round cut piece of 80 grit cloth back sand paper to the valve. Cut it so that about 1/16 of an inch sticks out around the valve. I used self stick 80 grit as it is easier to remove. It took me 2 pieces per valve to get .064. I cut all of the pieces first.
Tape around the piston to prevent any dust from getting between the piston and the cylinder. I used two thicknesses of masking tape, lengths about 1 1/2 inches to get around the piston. I installed my head and tightened it down, no need to torque it. Stick the working end of a shop vac hose in the exhaust port to suck out the dust.
I made a piece to go over the valve stem to keep the cut uniform for each relief. Drilled and taped it for a small set screw. Put the valve in the head in the cylinder to be cut with the stop holding the valve against the head. After I tightened the head I loosened the set screw on the stop and pushed the valve down to seat in the valve relief. Loosened the set screw and set my distance with a feeler guage between the valve guide and the bottom of the stop and tightened the set screw. It's kind of hard to keep pressure on the valve ,set the distance with the feeler guage , then tighten the set screw. Another hand or two would be nice, but I did it so you probably can also. Unless you can find someone to help. Remember, don't push on the drill too hard.
I did take the head off quite a bit to check the depth of the cut and to check the sandpaper. It took me a while to do, but it was cheap and effective. Plus I got a lot of excersize from taking the heads on and off.
Good luck with any method you use!