eliminator block - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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eliminator block

looking into the hp sportsman

what after the sale machine work has to go into it? does it need a finish hone on cyl or lifter bores. or is this a buy the block clean it build it kind of thing.

looking into a 525 with p-51 heads and a 4150 carb (class rules)

just thinking of all machine work going into a stock block would be just as cheap to buy this instead.

boring
cleaning
freeze plugs
cam bearing
splayed mains
line hone

sounds like about a wash on the price to me. cheapest I found is 2145 but no one says if it is ready to go.

thanks for all the help

Michael

Micheal Howard
95 MUSTANG GT

HAD A SMALL BLOCK STROKER BUT JUST DIDNT DO THE TRICK!!!
GOING BACK TO A REAL MOTOR 525 HERE WE COME.


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 10:25 AM
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for most builds imo the Elim. blocks a good deal for large bores above 4.500 and builder wants roller cam bearings .

with that said , the Fords A460 block is a vbetter deal than the Sportman block ,

Yes machine work is needed for the A460
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 05:18 PM
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A460, Eliminator or production block should be checked and machined as needed....do not assume anything. I've been involved with all three and none of them is "ready to go".

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lem Evans View Post
A460, Eliminator or production block should be checked and machined as needed....do not assume anything. I've been involved with all three and none of them is "ready to go".
While I've run across a few factory/core blocks that could be re-assembled with new parts if a person were so inclined, I've never seen an aftermarket block that didn't require work before it would work.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 06:30 PM
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It's application driven relative to the production blocks.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys

I guess I need to ask this a different way.

I have a budget of 10k for this build what is the most beneficial (financially and durability) block to buy?

stick with the stocker and spend lots of money on machine work

or the a 460

hp sportsman from eliminator.

planning on using the scat rotating assembly with custom cam just need a little professional advice the foundation.

Micheal Howard
95 MUSTANG GT

HAD A SMALL BLOCK STROKER BUT JUST DIDNT DO THE TRICK!!!
GOING BACK TO A REAL MOTOR 525 HERE WE COME.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 10:28 AM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by 7.5COUPE View Post
I have a budget of 10k for this build what is the most beneficial (financially and durability) block to buy?

stick with the stocker and spend lots of money on machine work"

or the a 460?

hp sportsman from eliminator.?

planning on using the scat rotating assembly with custom cam just need a little professional advice the foundation.
Engine Block Comparo
Ford Racing A460 / Eliminator Sportsman
  • Both blocks have nodular cast main caps, SVO = 4-bolt on 2, 3, & 4, and Sportsman = 4-bolt on 1-5.
  • Both blocks have 2.25" standard-style cam bearings.
  • Both have priority mains oiling
  • SVO has siamese cylinders, the Sportsman block does not
  • SVO can go to 4.600 bore, the Sportsman only to 4.500 bore.
  • SVO has provision for the 18-bolt head, Sportsman block does not (only the 4 extra bolt holes on the exhaust side?)
  • SVO is rated to 1500HP @ 8000 rpm, the Eliminator is rated only to 1100HP.

Depending on how much of the machine shop and assembly work you can do yourself, your noted cap of 10K may or may not be a fair budget for your intentions.

You mentioned $2145 from your shop for them to prepare a passenger car block for you, but some of the noted machine shop work also needs to be performed on the aftermarket blocks as well, so you need to add those expenses to them also. In the past, we have offered prepped passenger car blocks as follows:
  • D0VE-A block
  • Thermoclean & mag check
  • Stage 1 oiling mods
  • 1025 carbon steel billet main caps
  • Align bore
  • Align hone
  • Grand Total = $1100
What is the bore of your planned 525 cubic inch engine?

Paul

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 07:37 PM
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eliminator ultra block.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-22-2011, 07:45 PM
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eliminator ultra block.
sounds like a green oil post.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
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sounds like a green oil post.
Maybe even shaft rockers.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 08:31 PM
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I have the Eliminator Ultra block. It needed to be finish honed, bore was just shy of 4.500 which it should be that way, line bore was fine, lifter bores were fine, decks were both square, but Eliminator forgot to machine the rear main area where the oil slinger fits into the block on the crankshaft so I had to pay $150 for that. For your build I would just use a good OEM block with good internals. Chris

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Kane View Post
[B][CENTER]
What is the bore of your planned 525 cubic inch engine?

Paul

Paul

I am leaning to the 4.400 x 4.300 set up. as 525 is class limit. I am trying to run @ 3000 lbs and run 5.40s with a 4150 carb with victor intake. I feel the weight is a little high but cant change it.

motor may see nitrous in future but mainly a N/A motor for now.

will have a glide with 2 1/8 headers and custom cam.

talking with the wife today and she says over build it so we dont have to do this again,
small block came apart 2 times in less than a year. stock block stroker making 650 to tires.

Micheal Howard
95 MUSTANG GT

HAD A SMALL BLOCK STROKER BUT JUST DIDNT DO THE TRICK!!!
GOING BACK TO A REAL MOTOR 525 HERE WE COME.


ON RADIALS
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 10:46 AM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by 7.5COUPE View Post
Paul

I am leaning to the 4.400 x 4.300 set up. as 525 is class limit. I am trying to run @ 3000 lbs and run 5.40s with a 4150 carb with victor intake. I feel the weight is a little high but cant change it.

motor may see nitrous in future but mainly a N/A motor for now.

will have a glide with 2 1/8 headers and custom cam.

talking with the wife today and she says over build it so we dont have to do this again,
small block came apart 2 times in less than a year. stock block stroker making 650 to tires.
One way you can reduce weight: The 4-bolted passenger car block is about 40 pounds lighter than the aftermarket blocks with the same 4.40" bore size.

Most any well prepped 4-bolted passenger car block ought to be able to handle a 523 with a 4.40" bore size and be plenty reliable in most applications. Of course, the aftermarket blocks trump the reliability of the passenger car blocks. The extra $1000 spent on the aftermarket block might save your 10K investment. Or, you might save yourself 1K and 40 pounds by going with the passenger car block. I can't make that decision for you.

We will have both types of 4-bolted passenger car blocks available (D0VE with billet splayed caps and a factory 4-bolt block with bushed lifters) for the coming weeks if that's the choice you make.

Paul

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