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Desmogging the 73-86 460!!!

2M views 48 replies 37 participants last post by  eilersbill0 
#1 · (Edited)
Gonna start a sticky with tips and tricks to maximising power in the 73-86 460.

1. Timing set change; 72 and up have an 8* retard in the timing set stock. Install a 69-71 timing chain set (double roller is also a good upgrade).

2. Carb change; throw that 650 in the scrap pile and install a properly tuned list# 3310 carb

3. Getting rid of the EGR; (A) If your engine has the air injection tubing remove them and tap and install 1/4" pipe plugs in the heads. (B) On the Holley flanged intake remove the EGR spacer plate between the carb and intake purchase a new EGR to carb gasket and place directly onto the intake (this will be ~1/4" thick gasket) then install a 1" 4hole aluminum spacer then a standard holley gasket then the carb.

4. Tming; (A) replace a points distributor with a Duraspark unit that is recurved with a proper timing curve, (B) Set timing at 12* initial.

5. Both Crane and Harland Sharp offer roller rocker conversions; this is a great addition.

These are the methods I have devoloped over the years and will turn a lazy gas guzzling 460 into a lean tire frying beast with no major work.

Anyone who has other tips and tricks please feel free to share!
 
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#7 ·
Yes a decent set of headers or even increasing the exhaust piping size to 2 1/2" off the manifolds will both give noticeable increases.

I read an article about 20 years ago on doing these things and the guy claimed 90-110hp increase with these changes seems a bit optimistic but having done them to several stock smog era 460's the difference is dramatic.
 
#8 ·
Nobody's posted on this thread in a few months, but this may be a helpful addition...
Yeah, just a good set of headers an pipes can do a lot for you. It's pretty cheap for the gain if you do the work yourself.

Mopar Muscle Magazine ran some dyno tests on a 440 in 2001 using stock manifolds, Hedman shorty headers, and Hedman Elites (long tubes). At 5200 rpm, the 440 put out 79.1 more HP with long tubes than with stock manifolds (about 19.3% HP increase). At the same rpm (5200 rpm), the 440 put out 90.2 ft/lbs more torque than with stock manifolds (about 19.4% torque increase). It showed about a 6.1% torque increase at 3000 rpm.

The shorty headers also showed significant increase, but in most cases I think I'd just go for long tubes if I was doing a header upgrade.

I haven't seen any charts or anything for exhaust size, but true dual exhaust always helps.

I'm currently dealing with sealing up a header leak (around flange), so headers can have drawbacks, but it doesn't take that much to get everything right.
 
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#9 ·
get me farther down the road

can anyone help me with info on desmogging a 91. my 460 is in a 4x4 reg cab dually five speed with a overhead camper. i plan on putting a lot of miles on this rig and would like it as efficient as possible. im considering the 62 mm throttle body from summit,k&n filter and dual exhaust. any suggestions appreciated.
 
#10 ·
can anyone help me with info on desmogging a 91. my 460 is in a 4x4 reg cab dually five speed with a overhead camper. i plan on putting a lot of miles on this rig and would like it as efficient as possible. im considering the 62 mm throttle body from summit,k&n filter and dual exhaust. any suggestions appreciated.
IMO you should leave the emmissions alone unless you know how to reprogram the computer.
 
#15 ·
I know this is a sticky and not a Q&A thread but:
What do I plug the intake manifold with where the ERG plate used to cover? I bought a new carb and 1" riser but the riser won't cover the exhaust port on the intake.
Go to hardware store for a chunk of aluminum 1/8" flat bar/plate and some gasket paper and make a block off plate.
 
#17 · (Edited)
time to rebuild a 460 thats knocking

I have read thru this thread and would like to learn more. I have a 1973 Lincoln engine in a 1960 F100 that I use to pull a heavily loaded trailer thru the hills of northern Arkansas. Its time to rebuild it because it started knocking. I have some DOVE 429 heads. What valves are recommended?
I have the Duraspark, and the 68 timing chain set. Which headers fit this combination? Do I need a different intake manifold? What else can I do at a low cost to improve performance? thanks

one edit: when I got it, it had a Holley and paper gasket which burned thru and I found the (EGR?) was burning a hole in the paper gasket. I tapped and plugged that hole
 
#18 ·
I have read thru this thread and would like to learn more. I have a 1973 Lincoln engine in a 1960 F100 that I use to pull a heavily loaded trailer thru the hills of northern Arkansas. Its time to rebuild it because it started knocking. I have some DOVE 429 heads. What valves are recommended?
I have the Duraspark, and the 68 timing chain set. Which headers fit this combination? Do I need a different intake manifold? What else can I do at a low cost to improve performance? thanks

one edit: when I got it, it had a Holley and paper gasket which burned thru and I found the (EGR?) was burning a hole in the paper gasket. I tapped and plugged that hole
You will do best to post this in the tech section.



S
 
#19 · (Edited)
What If I Want Gas Mileage too?

Here are my goals (engine will run on pump "regular" gas and not be used for racing and not be driven when it is colder than 45 degrees farenheit outside, and my car is a 1978 Lincoln Mark V):

1. increase power above stock ONLY if it can be done without decreasing stock gas mileage and without making engine more unreliable or rough running or rough idling or harder to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

2. increase gas mileage but only if it can be done without losing significant power or making engine more unreliable or rough running or rough idling or hard to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

3. make engine more reliable but only if it can be done without decreasing gas mileage or power or making engine run rough or idle rough or harder to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

I currently have my 460 out of the car on an engine stand and time to work on it and when I'm done I will probably leave the engine in the car for the next 30 years and drive maybe around 50,000 miles. So, now is the time for me to do whatever it is that I should do to the engine, if anything, to improve power, mileage, or reliability in line with the above 3 goals.

With all that said, I have these questions:

1. Should I still use a timing gear/chain set from a 69-71 on my 78 Lincoln 460?

2. Should I recurve the stock distributor or use a non-stock distributor (and recurve it?)?

3. Should I use a non-stock cam?

4. Should I change the stock carburetor and if so to what model and manufacturer?

I'm asking these questions because the fact I am not interested in racing might possibly mean I should do different things than the recommendations already made in this thread.

Thank you an awful lot!!!!
 
#20 · (Edited)
83 Ford E350 Brougham RV

I'm starting to freak out about taking out the EGR and emissions crap. Some say don't do it others wish they could.

Here is everything I'm doing:
Ford 460 with RV cam. 110-120 Psi. compression at 5000' cold.
Holley 0-80783 Model 4150 (Modified with 2 stage power valve, jetted for 5000'-9000')
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (non egr)
MSD Ready to run Distributor
MSD A6 Ignition control
MSD 8680 Timing control (Manual Knob to change timing on the fly)
MSD Blaster SS Coil
Headman Headers
Flowmaster Delta 50 2 x2.5" in 1 x 3.00" out.
Stock Autolite Copper plugs.

I am trusting Bob at Competition Carburation. He agrees that changing 4000' elevation is a challenge for a carb. engine. He said, get some pinging? Turn the knob. Going up 1000' Turn the knob. Going up hill, Turn the knob. I hope I remember to turn it back.

As far as the EGR thing, thoughts about High combustion temps, NOx emissions, Backfiring and popping holes in pistons are the parts I'm concerned about. I just want a simple, reliable coach I can work on.
 
#21 ·
Here are the pics. My question is how much of the emmisions do I need to keep?
I have the two gas tank vent lines coming from the charcoal cans. What should I do with those?
 

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#22 ·
The air pump, EGR and charcoal canisters were removed from my '78 Continental Coupe 460. No issues with belts because the pump has a dedicated one that can be eliminated. I was concerned about vacuum plumbing but no big issues there either. Lines for the three vacuum reservoirs, HVAC, parking brake release and headlight doors were not affected. New lines were run for the distributor and cruise control. Original parts were all saved so it all can be put back to original if necessary or desired.

Removing the canisters isn't done for performance but mainly for simplification. The replacement carb doesn't have bowl venting and the plumbing and devices for purging the canisters were also eliminated. The vent line from the fuel tank to the canisters was capped and a small hole poked in the rubber check valve in the gas cap to provide a vent. As expected, a hint of fuel smell is detectable by the filler door but its never bothersome. Probably also around the carb since the fuel bowls are no longer plumbed to the canisters.
 
#23 ·
Timing chain

Thanks Jima, The motor has 96k miles. one owner and well taken care of. There is a lot of chatter about timing chains. Do I need/should to do that too?
 
#27 · (Edited)
#29 ·
Duraspark

Hello
I was just reading this Sticky and saw the mention of the Ford
Duraspark ignition. I will not assume, but I guess you mean the
Distributor and the controller.
We've been running the Dizzy with a (gm modual) for years
as long as the car is not a smog car in Calif.
best
 
#39 · (Edited)
Are referring to blocking the Thermactor (air injection) ports in the back of the cylinder heads?

There are plugs available to block these ports - or I have heard that filling with high-temp RTV also works.
 

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#38 ·
While this info does apply to the 72 460 if you need to pull the heads for work find a set of D3VE castings to replace the original D2VE castings which were a 1 year only head that are less tolerant to a performance ignition curve than the later or earlier heads.The D3VE heads will give approx.the same compression as the 72 heads while the early C8,C9,and D0VE heads will give a bump in compression to approx. 9 to 1.If the engine is sound and doesn't need work go ahead keep the 72 heads but adjust the ignition curve as necessary,but if you ever need to pull the heads go with the later or earlier heads it will be well worth the minimal additional cost.
 
#36 ·
I just aquired a 73 Lincoln Continental in cherry cond. Now i.m ready to desmog this baby. This is the plan.

69-71 timing chain set at o, Aluminum Intake - EGR valve Holley 650 duraspark ignition system and Flowmaster dual exhaust any suggestion tips or ideas this is my first one I'm welcome for suggestions
 
#37 ·
You'd do best to post this in engine tech.


88-92 EFI timing set is straight up, double roller and cost effective.
Properly curved duraspark distributor
Performer intake is a good fit here.

Are you in an emissions compliance area?



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