Breaking in new cam with gutted out thermostat? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Breaking in new cam with gutted out thermostat?

I put my old 466 thru a freshen up with new cam/lifters and rockers so i need to break in a new cam. i was told by many of you and other builders to not break in a motor with a thermostat just incase it it sticks and doesn't open up.

so since i had a super old 180 thermostat and i hear about people just using restirctor plates (or a washer), i thought about just taking out the spring of the old thermostat and it would do the same exact same thing.

is this a bad idea to leave it this way? or should i really just put a 160 high flow thermostat?

thanks guys!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 11:36 AM
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That's what I use on my run stand. Works great!


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I use on my run stand. Works great!

will it slow down the water flow enough to cool down the coolant down to about 180? or should i consider putting an actual thermostat in there after the break in?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 01:39 PM
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will it slow down the water flow enough to cool down the coolant down to about 180? or should i consider putting an actual thermostat in there after the break in?
What's nice is being able to get the water completely filled before lighting it off, and not waiting for the thermostat to open and trying to add more water as it's running.

As for holding temp. Depends on your setup. My run stand generally settles in around 190, but even 220 is fine. 240 would be the point to shut it down, but if it's getting that hot you have a problem. Be sure to get all the air you can through the radiator. House fans in front of the car, garage doors open or car outside, etc.

If it's warm enough where you live, you could run a gutted thermostat all the time, but running down the highway at 140 is too cold. A 180 stat is a nice medium for street use, and for the five bucks or whatever they cost, why not run one?

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 02:43 PM
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I NEVER START a new engine with a stat installed

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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i broke in the new cam today in a 10 minute interval and then another 10 minute interval (to make sure nothing is going on). the first 10 minutes the temperature never got above 130 and i have a mechanical guage that doesn't show anything below 130. the next line on the temperature gauge is 180 and the guage only went in between 130 and 180 at the hottest in the second 10 minute interveral. the whole time i ran a house fan on it and ran the garden hose on the radiator in between the 10 minutes of intervals.

i am in the hot parts of california so it does get above 100 degrees here at times and mostly always above 90's in the summer and thats when i mostly drive the car. i would think once i start driving the car with a load and everything it'll get hotter than about 155.

if needed, i'll just put another 160 high flow in there.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 03:18 AM
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An engine builder I know throws a methanol carby on & runs methanol just to run in cam.
Just a thought.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 10:46 AM
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I've been running a gutted tsat for 2 years now. It's the smaller version of the high flow types. High flow have a larger hole vs the stock which is 5/8" I think. You Dnt want the hole to be too large bc it doesn't give enough time for the water to absorb the heat of the motor. Too small and it will over heats well. Im not sure if my hole size is optimal but my engine temps got to 200-205 yesterday on a hot/humid NJ summer day and that's the hottest it's ever gotten. I'm thinking of getting a restrictive kit and playing with the hole sizes to see if I can get better cooling.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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I've been running a gutted tsat for 2 years now. It's the smaller version of the high flow types. High flow have a larger hole vs the stock which is 5/8" I think. You Dnt want the hole to be too large bc it doesn't give enough time for the water to absorb the heat of the motor. Too small and it will over heats well. Im not sure if my hole size is optimal but my engine temps got to 200-205 yesterday on a hot/humid NJ summer day and that's the hottest it's ever gotten. I'm thinking of getting a restrictive kit and playing with the hole sizes to see if I can get better cooling.
when you find the kit or part numbers let me know cuz i couldn't find anything for a BBF. thats why all i did was gut out the old thermostat i had.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 04:21 PM
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Milodon 16420 will work on BBF

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 12:17 AM
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wat fairlanes4ever said!

I still wonder if the holes DIA will really make a difference... only problem with testing is that I can't swap out all the plates in the same day and have consistent outside temps and not get scaled by boiling hot coolant. Any different results will be skewed by outside temp differences.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 07:32 AM
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when you find the kit or part numbers let me know cuz i couldn't find anything for a BBF. thats why all i did was gut out the old thermostat i had.
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