Optimizing Engine Temps - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Optimizing Engine Temps

I'm going to try to make this as short as possible. I put in my RHP 521 stroker with alum heads and Scotty warmed me about alum heads transferring heat to the coolant. my previous motor stayed at 170 with a HD copper radiator and a 19 inch fan clutch fan. well this motor wanted to stay around 200-210 with the same set up. i then went with a Champion alumium radiator, 25/75 coolant/water mix with WATER WETTER, dual electric 11 inch fans with ron francis temp switch fan controllers.

initially i had a single relay run both fans, it ran good but no flexibility with it. so i got the dual relay kit. at first i wired it to where one fan would stay on without the key on if the motor was past the 176. that killed my battery really quick. i then wired it to where they only turned on with the key so no more battery killing (i only run a 100amp 1 wire alternator but i got a spare brand new 140 amp waiting).

well with this set up the last 2 races has given me some worrysome times. the car will warm up FAST'ish to 180 before the fans turn on (suppose to turn on at 176) then they doesn't turn off til 161 and sometimes a realistic 165. well i find myself in the staging lanes at 175 and i'm 3 cars back to go and i want the motor to cool down below 170 before i run. its really been hot so i've seen 180 and therefore, i am one of the few racer wasting gas idling the motor in the staging lanes. i am doing this just so the car gets to 180 so it'll start cooling. i have to actually get lucky with the minimal cool down time we get between rounds to get the car cooled down to 160. i usually can sometimes and if i see 160 i more up 2 spots and then turn off motor off immediately but even then the temps will creep up to 170 when the motor off.

so with that, i am trying yet my 3rd different way to wire the fans. i grounded the turn on lead for the HOT SIDE fan on the radiator so it'll run all the time. i let car warm up in my garage where its still 90 degrees and its having problems getting past 160 but it eventually got to 165. i'm pretty sure this will be optimum but what about those few times i driving on the street and that fan is running all the time. i hear fans spinning at higher speeds will actually restrict air flow. and i'm also worried the longevity of the fan will decrease with it on all the time. i hope i can buy spare fan motors for it.

also, i was recommended i run a T-stat since i run on the street which really isn't much anymore. i run a 160 mr. gasket high flow. i also have 3 sizes of restrictors. should i ditch the t-stat and run the smallest restrictor? will that help out with the optimum cooling temps or will it just complicate it? i use to run a gutted t-stat which the hole was big and it would over cool cruising on the side roads at 60mph (130-150 degrees) but would get to 195 idling and driving around the neighborhood. the hole is bigger than the biggest restrictor i have so maybe it'll help out when i'm on stop and go but i guess it still overcool motor on the back roads.

any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 01:01 AM
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Try the restrictor, it wont hurt to try it.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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yeah it wouldn't hurt to try i guess as i also bought a reusable gasket. i'm mostly concerned about it actually somewhat warming up with the restrictor plate in there and the fan always on.

suggestions.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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I have two electric 12" fans and they have been wired to be on when the cars running. Been about two years now and they still work fine. If the fans are on the front then yes they restrict airflow at high speeds. But on the engine side not so much.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2013, 10:28 PM
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why are you worried about staying @ 180*?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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why are you worried about staying @ 180*?
detonation!!! 10.4CR with california's crappy 91 octane. i do run some 110 mix for insurance and i'm just scared to death to detonate a motor AGAIN.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 07:12 AM
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E-85

xoliex, can you get E-85 out there? I switched to E-85 4 years ago and will never switch back, its a good fuel for racing and street use and it don't take much to convert, all I done was convert my carb and done nothing else to my fuel system at all, and it ran better, cooler and faster than straight 110 race fuel, my carb guy is Justus Daniel and he's in N.C. his web address is raceone85.com, check it out, if you can get the fuel
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 09:41 AM
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I've got my dual fans run through an on/off toggle that triggers a 40 amp relay, and a gutted thermostat. I usually just flip it on after the engine's started. I was worried that I might forget to flip it, but it's just automatic now. I've consciously thought "did I flick the switch on?" and every time I've checked, they're already on and going. If, for some reason, I want it to get warmer, I can just turn them off for a while, but it's been over 90 degrees here for almost a month straight, and that hasn't come up yet. Car runs nice and cool no matter what the temp or driving situation. I was stuck in traffic the other day for over an hour idling and it was 95 degrees, and the car never got over 140.

Lucas
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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I've got my dual fans run through an on/off toggle that triggers a 40 amp relay, and a gutted thermostat. I usually just flip it on after the engine's started. I was worried that I might forget to flip it, but it's just automatic now. I've consciously thought "did I flick the switch on?" and every time I've checked, they're already on and going. If, for some reason, I want it to get warmer, I can just turn them off for a while, but it's been over 90 degrees here for almost a month straight, and that hasn't come up yet. Car runs nice and cool no matter what the temp or driving situation. I was stuck in traffic the other day for over an hour idling and it was 95 degrees, and the car never got over 140.

Lucas
what fans do you have? 12? cfm? i think 140 is too cold and you should run at least 160 especially you have iron heads.

run a 160 mr. gasket t-stat and they sell them at any autozone.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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xoliex, can you get E-85 out there? I switched to E-85 4 years ago and will never switch back, its a good fuel for racing and street use and it don't take much to convert, all I done was convert my carb and done nothing else to my fuel system at all, and it ran better, cooler and faster than straight 110 race fuel, my carb guy is Justus Daniel and he's in N.C. his web address is raceone85.com, check it out, if you can get the fuel
there is e85 around the sac area but thats 45-60 minute away. thats too far to get only a few gals of gas. and it won't only make it worthy if i got 20 gallons at a time.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 12:08 PM
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what fans do you have? 12? cfm? i think 140 is too cold and you should run at least 160 especially you have iron heads.

run a 160 mr. gasket t-stat and they sell them at any autozone.
I'm running a Summit SUM-G4851 dual fan set-up that fit my Be-Cool Qualifier radiator to the nats-a$$ (about 1/2 inch space on the ends, no open area above or below the fans)....it's rated at 3100 cfm. When I was initially breaking the engine in, I was having problems getting the system to "burp", so I gutted the stat, and all is just peachy now, so I'm leaving it. I did a test and let the temp get up to 180 with the fans off, and when I turned them on, I dropped 20 degrees in well under a minute, and was down to 140 in under 2, so these things work great. I'm running it this cool to help avoid the ping I had happening, I've got around 11.3:1 compression, and only 91 octane here in Montana, so every bit helps. Seems to like life on 91 octane and a bottle of booster at 14 initial and 34 degrees total advance by 2500 rpm now.

Lucas
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, i was thinking since one of the fans has the option to run all the time if it was grounded (like it is recently) i can just route that into the car and put it into a toggle switch. i'll try to always leave it on so i don't forget but it would be nice not to have it on upon start up so the motor warms up quicker.

with me just driving in the pits and starting and stopping in the staging lanes, i might be able to keep the motor at 160-170 alot easier and not really let it get to 180 until after a 1/4 run.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 04:59 PM
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If you are mostly strip driving you might be better off with an electric w/p. It`s easier to get the temp where you want it without running the engine.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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If you are mostly strip driving you might be better off with an electric w/p. It`s easier to get the temp where you want it without running the engine.
i'd run a electric water pump but i won't have an place to bolt the powersteering bracket.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-25-2013, 03:48 PM
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i'd run a electric water pump but i won't have an place to bolt the powersteering bracket.
You can use your stock water pump and a Moroso electric water pump drive.
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