flat tappet to roller tappet cam swap - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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flat tappet to roller tappet cam swap

Been wanting to do a cam change from flat tappet to roller tappet in our Cobra. Thinking about going solids in the aluminum head, 1000cfm dbl pmp, 460. Was hoping to hear from any of you that has done a cam change similar to this. Looking for a little more seat of the pants and gnarly exhaust.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mdross1 View Post
Been wanting to do a cam change from flat tappet to roller tappet in our Cobra. Thinking about going solids in the aluminum head, 1000cfm dbl pmp, 460. Was hoping to hear from any of you that has done a cam change similar to this. Looking for a little more seat of the pants and gnarly exhaust.
Im in the process of going from a hydraulic flat tappet to a solid roller. Its hard to say if youll be making alot more power without a little more info on your current cam, heads, intake, compression ect...
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 08:37 PM
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I went from a roller to a solid flat tappet bc I was sick of the maintenance and reliability issues and I actually picked up a tenth. I now have a bigger motor and again went with a custom solid ft and am very happy with it. This is in a truck that sees a lot of street use.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-17-2013, 11:28 PM
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If you don't need more than .600" lift solid flat tap can be a good way to go. Solid rollers are expensive, require more spring pressure, valve side weight matters more, and a stud girdle is a good idea.

On a flat tappet is a good idea to use a lifter with the EDM'd oil hole in it.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 06:58 AM
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Running a roller in a big Ford is really not anything difficult. Your choice of lobes will be a very BIG factor when it comes to longevity on the street or in any endurance application. There are a lot of roller lobes which are extremely harsh and rough on valvetrain parts.

Why would the valve end mass be any more or less important with a roller vs a flat tappet?

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the posts,my engine cr 10.1,Lunati cam .235 @ .050..560 lift both sides. Edelbrock Performer RPM all port matched. This combo works great just want more. Thought about bigger cubes but certain this 460 has enough left just have to tweak it out. The 1000cfm dbl pmp works incredible convinced more cam will give me all I need.
Anxious to hear from you that have done this type of a swap.
Mike Ross
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 10:12 AM
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Why would the valve end mass be any more or less important with a roller vs a flat tappet?
A solid roller shines when you need a lot of lift. What I should have said is a higher valve lift will make the valve end mass matter more as for a given RPM a higher lift will mean the valve has to travel further over the same time. A roller also requires more spring pressure to control the valvetrain and less valve end mass helps reduce somewhat how much spring pressure is needed.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 01:44 PM
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Cool

Which aluminum heads are you using?

The single pattern cam is leaving HP on the table with out a doubt...

You may well find that a properly specced out SFT will up your game significantly with out the expense and maintenance of the SR...



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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdross1 View Post
Appreciate the posts,my engine cr 10.1,Lunati cam .235 @ .050..560 lift both sides. Edelbrock Performer RPM all port matched. This combo works great just want more. Thought about bigger cubes but certain this 460 has enough left just have to tweak it out. The 1000cfm dbl pmp works incredible convinced more cam will give me all I need.
Anxious to hear from you that have done this type of a swap.
Mike Ross
Why not try a solid flat tappet first they are a lot cheaper.. ive ran 3 drag weeks and seen a lot of valve train problem with the roller cars... lifter and springs some break every day... with where your at in the hp chain a roller is worth 3-4% so at 600 hp 18hp for $1000 or more.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 02:40 PM
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What kind of transmission? Converter stall speed (if auto), rear gear, tire size, car weight? Intended use?
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdross1 View Post
Appreciate the posts,my engine cr 10.1, Lunati cam .235 @ .050..560 lift both sides. Edelbrock Performer RPM all port matched. This combo works great just want more. Thought about bigger cubes but certain this 460 has enough left just have to tweak it out. The 1000cfm dbl pmp works incredible convinced more cam will give me all I need.
Anxious to hear from you that have done this type of a swap.
Mike Ross

I wouldn't necessarily say MORE cam but, certainly a BETTER cam would help you a bunch.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-18-2013, 07:31 PM
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In my opinion and only my opinion-unless you can find some "quality"used parts,you can easily spend $2000 on a roller cam convervion.(cam,lifters,springs,retainers,keepers, pushrods,dist.gear,intake,head and exhaust gaskets, just to name some parts).That is a lot of money to spend for a few horsepower and a changed exhaust sound.I'd stick with what you have till its time to change engines.Again-only in my opinion.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 08:21 AM
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What's the most lift for a street solid flat tappet cam?
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 12:12 PM
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Most times net lift at the valve is not much more than .650"
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-19-2013, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 68xr7cat View Post
Most times net lift at the valve is not much more than .650"
Recieved this cam spec by crow cams solid flat tappet............280 in, 289 ex @ .050......with .720 lift with 110 ls......lash .016............is this streetable on a 545 p-51 head pump gas?
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