I'm trying to get better fuel mileage out of my 460. I'm probably asking for a lot, I know. Combo is.
64 galaxie
70 stock bottom end 0 deck.
Ported DOVE C heads with scorpion roller rockers, stock valves
Stealth intake
950 Holley
Magnum 292 cam
Crites headers.
Timing locked at 40
C6 with 3500 stall, 3.50 gears with 29" tall tire.
No power steering
Air fuel ratio when cruising is about 13.5 plugs look great
Makes awesome power but only gets about 3.5 miles per gallon.
I'm hoping for 10 mpg
Get rid of the Stealth intake manifold and get a regular "Performer"; (not RPM), with a 1" thick PHENOLIC 4 hole spacer or Jomar "Equalizer" type.
Get an adjustable VACUUM ADVANCE distributor connected to manifold vacuum with a regular high performance STREET mechanical curve.
Total mechanical advance 36 degrees with 10 distributor degrees in the distributor so, the initial advance is 16 degrees. Start the mechanical curve advancing at 1,000 RPM and all in at about 3,000 RPM.
Get rid of the Stealth intake manifold and get a regular "Performer"; (not RPM), with a 1" thick PHENOLIC 4 hole spacer or Jomar "Equalizer" type.
Get an adjustable VACUUM ADVANCE distributor connected to manifold vacuum with a regular high performance STREET mechanical curve.
Total mechanical advance 36 degrees with 10 distributor degrees in the distributor so, the initial advance is 16 degrees. Start the mechanical curve advancing at 1,000 RPM and all in at about 3,000 RPM.[/QUOTE
On the OP's setup,let's say he has a Dura Spark set in the 13 slot,10 initial for 36 total mechanical advance,gets a Crane adjustable VA,or any other brand...don't they provide 15 degrees advance at idle vacuum making for 25 deg advance? Is that acceptable? Does the adjustable feature limit advance travel? Does it dictate the amount of vacuum needed for operation? I guess I don't fully understand how the adjustable vacuum works and would greatly appreciate an explanation.
Thanks!
I would add a new custom ground cam and a lower stall converter to Randy's suggestions. Your build sounds like it is from the 80's. Less will give you a much snapper ride.
Not really wanting to change the cam or converter. Not against changing the intake. If I have to change the torque converter I'll put an overdrive trans in it. I guess I was thinking that this combo should better mileage. I would be happy if it would get 10mpg. Shouldn't it get better than it does? I've been wandering if pulling timing and jet out would help. I really hate to give up any power. It runs great. I guess I cant have my cake and eat it too.
Where are you getting 3.5 mpg? Is that down the highway, or in town, or a mix? My car gets about 9-10 down the highway, but once I get in the traffic and lights and whatnot of city driving, it's down in the 4 range.....I think your locked out distributor is your biggest issue.
X2,A properly adjusted & functioning vacuum advance is free gas,at part throttle light load conditions cruising down the highway with appropiate octane fuel for the compression ratio you should be able to run nearly 50* advance,that would be initial+mechanical+vacuum.While a locked ignition definitely has its place in a scenario where consistent repeatable performance is required,an extensively street driven machine will give very satisfactory performance power and mileage wise with vacuum advance.An added benefit may be some reduced load for your cooling system too.
Electric cooling fan(s) made a considerable difference in my MPG and engine spool up. My '79 Ranchero has a 9.5 to 1 466/C6/3.25 combo using Performer intake/ 4 hole spacer, 280 Magnum cam, Roller rockers, 770VS and 27.7 tires got 15.2MPG @ 70-72 mph avg going to and coming back from the Moonshine Festival in Georgia last October. Not the same combo but still in a heavy vehicle. Right now have a 870 SA installed, but yet to do any mileage runs. Here's a pic, with about 400 extra lbs of "stuff" in the bed(spare tire, spare battery, tools and etc) for the Dawsonville trip:
In working with the DS distributors the way we do:
All ford distributors have an adjustable vacuum canister. Hex behind vacuum nipple = adjustable canister. Older style came apart and used shims. Allen sizes required depend. 1/8" typical but I have seen smaller needed.
The one caveat is that some of the remans have the gosh dammed advance dashpots incorrectly assembled. In that case drilling and pinning through the arm slot limits vacuum advance.
As has been mentioned here. For good fuel economy and street manners vacuum advance hooked to ported vac for mild cams and manifold for more obnoxious combos is the ticket.
A/F cruise ratio should be about 14 to 14.2 to 1 with E10
This can be accomplished to an extent by leaning out the idle feed restrictor.
The problem I have run into at highway speeds is that the transfer slots / throttle angle can not provide enough air for the big engine and the main well starts to trickle. This makes it harder to adjust A/F at 60 to 70 MPH.
I have a 63.5 Galaxie with a 429, Edelbrock Performer intake, D0VE heads, c6, GV overdrive, 4.30 rear gears
218 @.050 .500ish lift cam. Rear tires are 275/60/15
I do have a higher stall convertor.
On a 120mile trip that I regularly do, I can get 12.7mpg
My thought when tossing everything together is that on the street a deep geared heavy car with a 400hp engine is much more fun to drive than a steep geared 550hp engine.
I have a QF 735 carburetor and a Duraspark distributor with msd box.
It took me a little while to get my car to get decent economy. Do NOT underestimate taking the time to nail down the ignition advance, it makes a ton of difference.
I assume since you have the Stealth intake, that you have a teardrop hood. As such ditching the intake and adding a spacer is a good idea.
my car:
Actually about to kick the 429 out and toss in a "lil FE" I've been building.
GOOD LOOKING GALAXIE!! How much of a difference did the addition of the GV's OD help with MPG and/or drivability? I was entertaining the thought of installing one until I was pleasantly surprised by my MPG numbers(really figured I would see and be happy with 12-13 mpg).
Just looked it up. That is a lot of camshaft for any sort of fuel economy.
I know you don't want to change anything in the engine so I'm sure this advice is falling on deaf ears......
But an Edelbrock Performer and a custom cam (something with 20 degrees less duration at .050 most likely) from one of the fine folks in this thread (randy or scotty) and I personally think you'll be giving up next to nothing on the street, getting at least 10mpg and to be honest the engine would probably *feel* stronger in the under 3500rpm range. On the track I'm sure there would be a loss.... Of course if you don't go to the track, who cares, right?
It will get raced some. I've got a mustang I drag race but it's tore apart right now. So yes I'm going to race this car some. I know I'm asking for a lot out of it. Nice 63.5 galaxie. The Fe looks killer.
Deep roots, your not hogging my post. I think your fe is awesome. I believe an fe is what looks best in these old galaxies. It's just hard to beat how well a budget 460 can run. Maybe some day I'll put in fe back in mine. Or build a low compression stroked 460.
Juiced,the 460 based engines are definitely the go to BBF for power,while the FE's look great and make good reliable power,when it comes to hp per dollar I believe the 429-460 have significant advantage and more potential.Plus the stock block displacement potential,makes for an easier choice too.But as far as the early 60's galaxies go the FE's just look so right in the engine bay.
Cold air induction system should give a significant improvement over the engine inhaling hot engine bay air.
My 10.5:1 429 has about 0.52" @ 220 cam, 750 vs on an old Torker, cast manifolds with 2.5" system, full-time ram air and 3.5:1 gears.
Hardly an ideal combo but it gives 13mpg on the highway which I think is not bad. That's Imperial gallons not US so it's about 11 in your terms.
I have a Performer on the shelf ready but there's more important stuff to do atm. The carb has not even been tuned since taking it off the old 351C.
I am now inspired to get my advance curve sorted better as others have said (Accel dual point vac adv with electronic ign box). I think I only have 6 degrees of initial atm.
Yeah, hard to beat the lima engines for power per dollar. (that is why I had a 429 in my car for so many years while I saved my pennies)
a set of scj heads, an intake, and cam/lifters (which I already had) and I'd be at the same power level as the engine I just built (but about $10k cheaper hehe).
Little tricky having everything fit perfectly with a 429 tho if you choose to stay original hood etc. I also couldn't get the engine low enough for perfect driveshaft angles with my GV overdrive (I didn't want to cut the floor).
There is a sound difference between an FE and 385 that cannot be denied In the end I guess it's what makes ya happy.
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