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C6 trans build for transbrake or manual valvebody

106K views 73 replies 33 participants last post by  gregaust 
#1 ·
This is what I do aC-6 build and it seems to give good durability

- Low /reverse Clutch
- piston use the old style with the 24 return springs and the check ball , locate check ball at 12 o'clock (these springs have a free length of 1.070" as opposed to the high/reverse free length of 1.400"
- fibre's & steels , I prefer red alto's and kolenes but the stock clutches hold up well, If your trans has a waveplate discard it . I like to have a min of 5 fibres and steels set at .060 clearance ( .012 per fibre and steel) . the pressure plate may need a step machined in the out edge twice as thick as the snapring to aid in installation of the snapring, use a magnet base dail indicator mounted to the rear sprag race to check clearance- air check
- rear planetary hub use the one with the 1" long splines
- rear planetary- preferred is a 4 pinion
- Forward clutch - prefer red alto's and kolenes,and use the new style drum (new style has a wave plate, 5 & 5 here plus the wave plate .040-.050 clearance, the pressure may need a step machined in it for the snapring or you can use a second internal pressure plate as the outer , make sure you have the right forward ringgear assemble . the new style drum has a .400 deep torrington pocket were as the old style only had a .330 deep pocket and the ringgear asembles are different the new style has longer splines on the outside and the hub is different also. a missmatch of parts here will raise havoc with end play , the planetary's are the same 3 pinion, the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , ussally I just put an new drum in each year

2nd gear - "R" servo and an "E" lever and the toughest spring I have , Band I been getting good service out of the 2 1/2 " flex band kevlar lined

- High/reverse drum , 5 clutch drum preferred, but the stock 3 clutch drum can give good service if modified by cutting a new snap ring groove . there is 2 alternatives here depending on which drum you have as some drums have a longer spline than others the ones with the long spline an new 1/8" groove is to be machined in the drum at .565 from the bottom of the original to the top of the new groove this will allow you to use one of the stock selective snap rings to achieve a clearance of of .012 - .013 per fibre & steel and using alto pt# 026757HP kit you can install 6 fibre's and 6 steels witha clearance of .072-.078 (note Alto's recommended clearance with this kit is way to tight) with the shorter splined drum you machine a new snap ring 11/8" groove in at .400 up from 5the bottom of the original groove to the top of the new groove and then step cut the pressure plate approx .165 " to allow snap ring installation and removal. With this mod the drum will hold 5 x 5 standard red alto's and kolene steels . another drum mod to do is drill a series of 1/8" holes into the perimeter of the drum in a zig-zag pattern were the steels engage in the drum , this ads in letting the oil out of the drum a cools the clutches by letting more oil flow through between the clutches , also fill all spring pockets in the piston with springs.
-pump sealing rings , get and use teflon sealing rings as they last a lot longer than the cast rings and they do not wear the drum
- set trans end play at .020-.045"
- and adjust the band , tighten to 120 inlbs and back of 1 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut


any Questions email me at fmerkl@eidnet.org or call 403-793-5412

Link to rollerizing a c6 http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=8558&sid=393341777e7d9a6bd7958594ececc708
 
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#58 ·
All depends on what you want to do with the car , how much power etc whether you stay auto shifts or go manual .

The forward pistons are much the same all years except some use a square cut seal ( early up to 74?) and some use a lip type seal . The bevel springs i normally use the later thicker .094" one
 
#61 ·
I bought a 5 clutch direct drum. It looks like it was a 3 clutch. So when i put the clutches in, i have way too much clearance. I dont have a wave plate so that might be why. I have thicker snap rings but the groove is too narrow. I can only fit an 085 the 095 wont really go in. If i add a steel to the bottom the friction disk will slide into the old groove. Is this a inproperly made drum or is that ok. Will the ring gear hold it out of the groove?
 
#63 ·
I was just dry fitting everything but like 095 with the 075 snap ring. using 5 alto red frictions and 5 steels @ 075 each. If i add an extra steel or a wave plate or oversize steels it will raise the last friction in line with the old snap ring groove. Its just below it now. Not sure if that will be a problem.
 
#65 ·
Frank says : "the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , usually I just put an new drum in each year "

At what pressures does this become an issue? Both wave plates I have on hand look pretty well used. Some builders don't use them at all from what I am finding.
 
#71 ·
Been following @Frank Merkl mods, and have a question regarding the clearance in the low/reverse clutch. When I air check it I'm getting .087 - .089 clearance with the wave plate, 5 steels and 5 frictions. Is this too much? I know there is really no clearance spec on that clutch pack but wanted tighten that up about .020. Any recommendations?
 
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