this top post will get added to as the more info i come across, with internal mods, part numbers and so on. Enjoy.
long tail , short tail...
where too look up years and what not?
I wanna lay down some base idea's on this transmission and its parts and what we have done too make them work!
I have two different C-6 tranmissions sitting here. One seem to have a longer extension housing, and the odd side mount setup.
Ill post some pics of both tranmission's
transmissions
tails
tail one
tail 2
i just too make sure i can swap internal's and output shaft's and housings
heres a good readup on rollerizing a C-6
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105057
and a build up on a Big C-6 with trans brake or manual valve body. (fixxed)
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105603
5 clutch drum setup with pics and info (thanks greg)
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121505&highlight=clutch+drum+setup
TCI trans brake fix pre frank!
If it's a TCI I have a fix for it as the problem is the 2 checkball slots in the lower half of the valvebody are too large and too long and the checkball cannot find there seats in the spacer plate. there should be 2- 1/4" steel checkball ,one in each slot . you need to fill these slots with JB WEld or another good 2 part epoxy , then using the spacer plate as a pattern mark the 4 checkball seats in the epoxy - using a 9/32" drill bit drill 4 holes in the epoxy approximately 9/32" deep at the 4 marked spots, then using the drillbit router a new checkball slot in the epoxy , make sure the checkballs will roll free from one end to the other in both slots - install the spacerplate and check to make sure the checkballs will roll from one end of the slot to the other and not over shoot there intended seat, the holes in the spacerplate should be 7/32" for the High checkball and 5/32" for the low checkball . In between the lower half of the valvebody and the spacerplate there should be a gasket ,if there is not make one out of .005" gasket material, Torque all Valvebody bolts to 55 inch/lb's
Frank
manual and trans brake for tci info!
Okay now , Who Manual as if it's a Tci for the Manual you need to modify the 2nd gear servo and plug the servo vent and for the TCI brake VB your have to run the servo unmodified and the vent hole open
im putting this here, just incase someone dont click the link and all the info is in one thread!
C6 trans build for transbrake or manual valvebody
This is what I do aC-6 build and it seems to give good durability
- Low /reverse Clutch
- piston use the old style with the 24 return springs and the check ball , locate check ball at 12 o'clock (these springs have a free length of 1.070" as opposed to the high/reverse free length of 1.400"
- fibre's & steels , I prefer red alto's and kolenes but the stock clutches hold up well, If your trans has a waveplate discard it . I like to have a min of 5 fibres and steels set at .060 clearance ( .012 per fibre and steel) . the pressure plate may need a step machined in the out edge twice as thick as the snapring to aid in installation of the snapring, use a magnet base dail indicator mounted to the rear sprag race to check clearance- air check
- rear planetary hub use the one with the 1" long splines Part# for the hub F81Z-7D164-AA
- rear planetary- preferred is a 4 pinion
- Forward clutch - prefer red alto's and kolenes,and use the new style drum (new style has a wave plate, 5 & 5 here plus the wave plate .040-.050 clearance, the pressure may need a step machined in it for the snapring or you can use a second internal pressure plate as the outer , make sure you have the right forward ringgear assemble . the new style drum has a .400 deep torrington pocket were as the old style only had a .330 deep pocket and the ringgear asembles are different the new style has longer splines on the outside and the hub is different also. a missmatch of parts here will raise havoc with end play , the planetary's are the same 3 pinion, the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , ussally I just put an new drum in each year
2nd gear - "R" servo and an "E" lever and the toughest spring I have , Band I been getting good service out of the 2 1/2 " flex band kevlar lined
- High/reverse drum , 5 clutch drum preferred, but the stock 3 clutch drum can give good service if modified by cutting a new snap ring groove . there is 2 alternatives here depending on which drum you have as some drums have a longer spline than others the ones with the long spline an new 1/8" groove is to be machined in the drum at .565 from the bottom of the original to the top of the new groove this will allow you to use one of the stock selective snap rings to achieve a clearance of of .012 - .013 per fibre & steel and using alto pt# 026757HP kit you can install 6 fibre's and 6 steels witha clearance of .072-.078 (note Alto's recommended clearance with this kit is way to tight) with the shorter splined drum you machine a new snap ring 11/8" groove in at .400 up from 5the bottom of the original groove to the top of the new groove and then step cut the pressure plate approx .165 " to allow snap ring installation and removal. With this mod the drum will hold 5 x 5 standard red alto's and kolene steels . another drum mod to do is drill a series of 1/8" holes into the perimeter of the drum in a zig-zag pattern were the steels engage in the drum , this ads in letting the oil out of the drum a cools the clutches by letting more oil flow through between the clutches , also fill all spring pockets in the piston with springs.
-pump sealing rings , get and use teflon sealing rings as they last a lot longer than the cast rings and they do not wear the drum
- set trans end play at .020-.045"
- and adjust the band , tighten to 120 inlbs and back of 1 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut
any Questions email me at fmerkl@eidnet.org or call 403-793-5412
so how do we id them? so i can clean them off and check?
are there any case mods? I plan on doing this over winter. so i can be ready come next year! i do have a c-4 sitting here and the input adapter. but its seems it take a lot more money to build the c-4 too take the abuse i wanna put thru it. and the internals seem to be smaller and light, but just dont look as strong!IMO.
reading will best serve you here. clicking the links and reading this thread can help on tons of stuff.
long tail , short tail...
where too look up years and what not?
I wanna lay down some base idea's on this transmission and its parts and what we have done too make them work!
I have two different C-6 tranmissions sitting here. One seem to have a longer extension housing, and the odd side mount setup.
Ill post some pics of both tranmission's
transmissions
tails
tail one
tail 2
i just too make sure i can swap internal's and output shaft's and housings
heres a good readup on rollerizing a C-6
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105057
and a build up on a Big C-6 with trans brake or manual valve body. (fixxed)
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105603
5 clutch drum setup with pics and info (thanks greg)
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121505&highlight=clutch+drum+setup
TCI trans brake fix pre frank!
If it's a TCI I have a fix for it as the problem is the 2 checkball slots in the lower half of the valvebody are too large and too long and the checkball cannot find there seats in the spacer plate. there should be 2- 1/4" steel checkball ,one in each slot . you need to fill these slots with JB WEld or another good 2 part epoxy , then using the spacer plate as a pattern mark the 4 checkball seats in the epoxy - using a 9/32" drill bit drill 4 holes in the epoxy approximately 9/32" deep at the 4 marked spots, then using the drillbit router a new checkball slot in the epoxy , make sure the checkballs will roll free from one end to the other in both slots - install the spacerplate and check to make sure the checkballs will roll from one end of the slot to the other and not over shoot there intended seat, the holes in the spacerplate should be 7/32" for the High checkball and 5/32" for the low checkball . In between the lower half of the valvebody and the spacerplate there should be a gasket ,if there is not make one out of .005" gasket material, Torque all Valvebody bolts to 55 inch/lb's
Frank
manual and trans brake for tci info!
Okay now , Who Manual as if it's a Tci for the Manual you need to modify the 2nd gear servo and plug the servo vent and for the TCI brake VB your have to run the servo unmodified and the vent hole open
im putting this here, just incase someone dont click the link and all the info is in one thread!
C6 trans build for transbrake or manual valvebody
This is what I do aC-6 build and it seems to give good durability
- Low /reverse Clutch
- piston use the old style with the 24 return springs and the check ball , locate check ball at 12 o'clock (these springs have a free length of 1.070" as opposed to the high/reverse free length of 1.400"
- fibre's & steels , I prefer red alto's and kolenes but the stock clutches hold up well, If your trans has a waveplate discard it . I like to have a min of 5 fibres and steels set at .060 clearance ( .012 per fibre and steel) . the pressure plate may need a step machined in the out edge twice as thick as the snapring to aid in installation of the snapring, use a magnet base dail indicator mounted to the rear sprag race to check clearance- air check
- rear planetary hub use the one with the 1" long splines Part# for the hub F81Z-7D164-AA
- rear planetary- preferred is a 4 pinion
- Forward clutch - prefer red alto's and kolenes,and use the new style drum (new style has a wave plate, 5 & 5 here plus the wave plate .040-.050 clearance, the pressure may need a step machined in it for the snapring or you can use a second internal pressure plate as the outer , make sure you have the right forward ringgear assemble . the new style drum has a .400 deep torrington pocket were as the old style only had a .330 deep pocket and the ringgear asembles are different the new style has longer splines on the outside and the hub is different also. a missmatch of parts here will raise havoc with end play , the planetary's are the same 3 pinion, the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , ussally I just put an new drum in each year
2nd gear - "R" servo and an "E" lever and the toughest spring I have , Band I been getting good service out of the 2 1/2 " flex band kevlar lined
- High/reverse drum , 5 clutch drum preferred, but the stock 3 clutch drum can give good service if modified by cutting a new snap ring groove . there is 2 alternatives here depending on which drum you have as some drums have a longer spline than others the ones with the long spline an new 1/8" groove is to be machined in the drum at .565 from the bottom of the original to the top of the new groove this will allow you to use one of the stock selective snap rings to achieve a clearance of of .012 - .013 per fibre & steel and using alto pt# 026757HP kit you can install 6 fibre's and 6 steels witha clearance of .072-.078 (note Alto's recommended clearance with this kit is way to tight) with the shorter splined drum you machine a new snap ring 11/8" groove in at .400 up from 5the bottom of the original groove to the top of the new groove and then step cut the pressure plate approx .165 " to allow snap ring installation and removal. With this mod the drum will hold 5 x 5 standard red alto's and kolene steels . another drum mod to do is drill a series of 1/8" holes into the perimeter of the drum in a zig-zag pattern were the steels engage in the drum , this ads in letting the oil out of the drum a cools the clutches by letting more oil flow through between the clutches , also fill all spring pockets in the piston with springs.
-pump sealing rings , get and use teflon sealing rings as they last a lot longer than the cast rings and they do not wear the drum
- set trans end play at .020-.045"
- and adjust the band , tighten to 120 inlbs and back of 1 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut
any Questions email me at fmerkl@eidnet.org or call 403-793-5412
so how do we id them? so i can clean them off and check?
are there any case mods? I plan on doing this over winter. so i can be ready come next year! i do have a c-4 sitting here and the input adapter. but its seems it take a lot more money to build the c-4 too take the abuse i wanna put thru it. and the internals seem to be smaller and light, but just dont look as strong!IMO.
reading will best serve you here. clicking the links and reading this thread can help on tons of stuff.