Carburetor adjusting problem on reman Holley 750 cfm - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Carburetor adjusting problem on reman Holley 750 cfm

Hi, I am not good at tuning carburetors ops: . I just bought a holley 4160 750cfm double pumper. Part # Holley 65-80508
This carburetor went on a stock original 1969 ford 429 with 360+ horsepower. Iwent with a little bigger cfm than I needed because I plan on adding on some mods.

Here is the problem, I can't get it to idle to the stock 700 rpm. I turned the idle screw all the way out and it is still at 1500+ rpm for idle. If the idle screw does not work, what do I need to do now? Please help, I don't want to start messing with other screws.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 07:34 PM
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Close down the butterflies ?????
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 07:35 PM
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make sure back throttle plates are closed
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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I think the back throttle plates are closed. I'll mess with it more tomorrow. I just hope I don't run out of gas before I can fix it.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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This is my first electric choke carburetor. When I start it up from a cold start, what rpm is the motor supposed to climb to? How much time does it take to warm up then?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 08:59 PM
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1 missed the 4160/ double pumper with elec choke.??????? is the choke hooked up? not best start there.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slow
1 missed the 4160/ double pumper with elec choke.??????? is the choke hooked up? not best start there.
I have the positive choke wire hooked up correctly. I noticed that the ground wire is connected from the choke to the carburetor, I don't know if that is right.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2008, 09:30 PM
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Oh yes i missed the choke too. Yes 12 v from ign switch to choke + a ground.
The choke flap should open up after a little while . If not there should be 3 small phillips screws,loosen them and turn the black choke housing leaner will make choke come off quicker .
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 08:36 AM
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My choke used to come on at around 1600RPM's. There is a screw that adjusts what Holley calls the "fast idle cam". So with this you can adjust how many RPM's are added to your normal idle RPM speed when the choke is "on".

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtyninemercury
My choke used to come on at around 1600RPM's. There is a screw that adjusts what Holley calls the "fast idle cam". So with this you can adjust how many RPM's are added to your normal idle RPM speed when the choke is "on".
I think you may have nailed the problem. I found these instruction for my carburetor model. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...l/199R9881.pdf
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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This thing is a pain to tune. I get a 700 rpm idle at drive. In park, I get an 1000 rpm plus idle. When I shift, the cars wants to die.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 514galaxie
This thing is a pain to tune. I get a 700 rpm idle at drive. In park, I get an 1000 rpm plus idle. When I shift, the cars wants to die.
How is this carb jetted? What about your discharge nozzles? Have you tuned the (2) air/fuel mixtures screws with a vacuum gauge?

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtyninemercury
Quote:
Originally Posted by 514galaxie
This thing is a pain to tune. I get a 700 rpm idle at drive. In park, I get an 1000 rpm plus idle. When I shift, the cars wants to die.
How is this carb jetted? What about your discharge nozzles? Have you tuned the (2) air/fuel mixtures screws with a vacuum gauge?
It is stock, I did not touch any mixture screws. I turned the fast cam screw counterclockwise and it lowered the rpms down to 1300 rpm during the cold start warm up. I leaned it out all the way and slowly turned the choke counterclockwise to where it still ran. The choke turned off quicker and I was finally able to set the idle at 700 rpm in park and about 625 rpm in gear.
During the whole process of adjusting I had to take off the carburetor to get to the fast idle cam screw. So what happened is when I went to put it back on , I tightened a nut when something was between the back gasket and the carburetor. I ended up with a hairline crack near the rear bolt hole on my freshly remaned carburetor. Hopefully it doesn't break off during WOT or I'll have fuel everywhere.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-27-2008, 10:45 AM
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Sorry but you need a new base plate now. Even if it doesn't break off all of the way, (which it probably will) it is not safe to run it like that. It also will cause a vacuum leak
clint

1971 Ford F100, 460/c6
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