AN Fuel System Routing - how are you guys routing lines inside fender well? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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AN Fuel System Routing - how are you guys routing lines inside fender well?

i am redoing my fuel system with -10 nylon hose and i want to route the lines towards the front of the engine bay. i previously routed them in the back of the shock tower but it gets close to the exhaust so i am routing away from there. plus, if i went that route again, i'll have to use more and more 90 degree fittings.

now for me to route the hoses to the front of the engine bay i have to pass the suspension. passing the suspension really isn't the issue though, but the tire comes close to the frame when the car is turned hard to either left or right. on a lowered 71-73 mustang, on a full hard left turn, the tire will actually rub against the frame a big. on the track i don't think it'll be a problem because i'll be using 4 inch wide rims spaced out but my street wheels 17x8's is the problem. now, it only does it on the driver side and i am routing my lines on the passenger side. to avoid where it could possibly rub, i would have to make the line go up all the way up or at least 1/2 way.

i would like to see how you guys routed your fuel lines in the fender well with AN hose. i am also running a return line so i have double the hose.

i will put the car all the way down to check for clearance but i want to route it to where it won't come close to hitting.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 07:50 PM
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plumbing

Lets see what you have already.
Plus fuel systems are not universal.
I plumb the whole car feed and return #10
with a bypass regulator.
usually most people plan on driving the vehicle so
I make it preform that duty with no hiccups.

If the engine makes any power and you have sticky tires
you need verified fuel delivery.

If you just want to hit the car shows, put a holley on it.

Please post up pics if you can so we know what car you are working on.



Javier
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:20 PM
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On my '71 I routed the supply line along side the uni-body seam until it hits the torque box and angled over to the frame. It then goes up the fender well tight to the engine compartment wall, curves over and across tied to the fender mounting lip where it hits a 90* sweep to a bulkhead fitting. It's one piece of #10 stainless from the filter off the pump in the back to the bulkhead as I like it's damage resistance to stuff that might be tossed up by the tire, although I try to keep the line out of the line of fire of road debris. The location keeps it from exhaust heat back to front as well as away from the bell housing area.

The return line follows the same routing except it goes over the brake booster through the inner fender behind the tire. This is an EFI setup so the #10 splits into two #8's for the fuel rails in the front of the engine and after the rails they come together at the regulator which is mounted behind the shock tower on the passenger side.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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On my '71 I routed the supply line along side the uni-body seam until it hits the torque box and angled over to the frame. It then goes up the fender well tight to the engine compartment wall, curves over and across tied to the fender mounting lip where it hits a 90* sweep to a bulkhead fitting. It's one piece of #10 stainless from the filter off the pump in the back to the bulkhead as I like it's damage resistance to stuff that might be tossed up by the tire, although I try to keep the line out of the line of fire of road debris. The location keeps it from exhaust heat back to front as well as away from the bell housing area.

The return line follows the same routing except it goes over the brake booster through the inner fender behind the tire. This is an EFI setup so the #10 splits into two #8's for the fuel rails in the front of the engine and after the rails they come together at the regulator which is mounted behind the shock tower on the passenger side.
i finished up the whole thing tonight and this is what i got!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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last few pics
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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before i ran the lines i did put the entire car on the ground made the car make a hard right turn the tire doesn't come close to hitting the outter fender well. when turned hard right, the tire comes almost 3 inches away from the fenderwell. if it were to rub, i avoided the area it would hit though.

the problem is, i can't find a place to put another large 6.5 long 10 mesh filter. the whole thing i could think of doing is going with carb inlet filters before the bowls and using double couplers to attach to the tee fittings on the inlets.

i do see and hear racers around here only use one filter before the pump. however these are the guys who run race gas only and race only cars. i do run pump gas and run on the street. now if i only run one filter, i am assuming i'm going to have to do some periodic carb bowl cleanings.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:21 AM
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I like it. don better than most!
About as good as it gets.
Pump and filter mounting great location.
Feed and return and a bypass style regulator, correct?

Looks like it will work.

Ok lets see the vent and the return going into the tank.


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jz...6/media/images

the above link is the only thing i could find online but the thing is, these have male theads at the end and my current ones are swivel female threads so i'll have to use a double coupler and it'll bring down the whole log lower. my return fitting is already only 1.5 inches from the intake.

anybody have a link of some other kind of carb inlet filters?

or am i worrying too much and running only a single filter before pump fine?
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:26 AM
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Ditch any 90 you can, the one on the regulator return port will disrupt flow.
I try to eliminate all 90s on a build.

I really dont care about looks, it has to works then I get looks...



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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I like it. don better than most!
About as good as it gets.
Pump and filter mounting great location.
Feed and return and a bypass style regulator, correct?

Looks like it will work.

Ok lets see the vent and the return going into the tank.


Javier
i paid good attention to regulate fuel after fuel log. the return fitting is barely cut off in the 3rd picture where you see two lines going over my upper shock bar. the return fitting is installed almost in the middle of the tank and its about 13/16ths of the way up on the tank. i couldn't install it any higher cuz of a body bracket thats in the way to holds up the tank straps. my vent fitting is on the side upper most area on the driver side which is a -10. i have a short 10 inch line going into a 85 micron filter (had this stuff sitting around) and its left over pushlock stuff.

can't find the pics of the tank, but here is a link where i put them on.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/newrepl...eply&p=1054457
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:32 AM
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with the right timing and about 7/8 psi fuel pressure it should belt it out pretty good.

If you feel like testing it, remove the feed line and try filling up a gallon within 20 seconds.

That should get the ponies out the 460.


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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Ditch any 90 you can, the one on the regulator return port will disrupt flow.
I try to eliminate all 90s on a build.

I really dont care about looks, it has to works then I get looks...



Javier
past the pump, i got a 45, and going into the bulk head i got another 45, the other end of the bulkhead i got another 45. i really made sure i didn't use 90's on the feed line. however on the tank to punk i absolutely had to. i ran out of 45 from my order but i had 90s. on the regulator part, there is nothing else i could do since i wanted to put the reg after log. it was either that or i am using a 180 fitting and regulator fuel pressure 3 feet after fuel log.

after the 90 elbow on return, i go into a straight, into a 45 at the bulkhead, then to a 90 and had o cuz of my bumper bracket is in the way, then it goes all the way into the tank to a 90 at the back of the tank.

i only used 90s where i had to and used as many straights and 45s instead.

is it really important for a second filter?
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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with the right timing and about 7/8 psi fuel pressure it should belt it out pretty good.

If you feel like testing it, remove the feed line and try filling up a gallon within 20 seconds.

That should get the ponies out the 460.


Javier
my aermotive SS pump is a 140+ (sometimes they advertise it being a 150) gpm pump, will it really fill a gallon of gas in 20 seconds?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xoliex View Post
my aermotive SS pump is a 140+ (sometimes they advertise it being a 150) gpm pump, will it really fill a gallon of gas in 20 seconds?
Lets find out! My BG220HR does 2.5 gallons in 40 seconds



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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 10:52 PM
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I have always run the second 10 micron filter after the pump. My configuration allows me to have them in a row ahead of the stock type tank, but the second filter can be anywhere along the length of the supply line. Looks like you've come along way Olie.
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