I am currently rebuilding my C6 for my 78 Bronco. I am using the 500hp Broader kit with R servo and an E lever. Using only parts from the Broader kit and my 78 C6, how long do you think it will hold up behind my 450hp/550ft/lb 460? I'm contemplating adding a transbrake for the sand drags I do. I do run paddles out back. I have been footbraking it, but I think I would be more consistent with a TB leaving around 3-4000 RPM.
I got three seasons out of mine before it started slipping a bit going into 3rd. I have a broader T-brake in mine,fully rollerized, and do the same stuff you do but almost twice the power. Converter is a UCC 4600ish. I run 2 B&M coolers and hydraulic oil. My trans rarely sees 180 degrees.
That is encouraging to hear. I don't plan to rollerize mine yet, but I will be using the aforementioned R servo and E lever, as well as swapping to the long spline reverse hub. I have a huge cooler on mine and I have never seen it get past 180 either.
What servo??? Just remember if it is Sonnax to check it, all i've used have needed machining as Frank has posted many times It will give you good service i'm sure . Make sure all clearances are setup spot on
Yes, I will be running the Sonnax. It is my understanding that if it does not slide into the case pretty easily, to remove about .007" from the O-Ring groove? I have access to a lathe so it shouldn't be an issue.
What servo??? Just remember if it is Sonnax to check it, all i've used have needed machining as Frank has posted many times It will give you good service i'm sure . Make sure all clearances are setup spot on
No. The thinner rear race is the inner race for the roller clutch . It needs to be thinner to accommodate the added thickness of the #9 bearing
Here's a pic although baring pictured is a little different . If you got a kit you should get the bearing and race together. If you just ordered the bearing you either need to machine the race or order new to suit
The race i'm referring to is what bolts into the case
Here's a pic although baring pictured is a little different . If you got a kit you should get the bearing and race together. If you just ordered the bearing you either need to machine the race or order new to suit
The race i'm referring to is what bolts into the case
This is exciting to hear about. Post pictures of your do-up when you can. Would appreciate a link to Frank Merkl's posts about the machining as well. Best to go into this fully prepared if I don't want to risk having to send it to the workshop after a badly done job! Thanks in advance!
Having an entire rear suspension to build still by March 25, I decided to farm out the trans work. I took all the parts to a local guy who has put 1000hp through his c6, so I imagine he can handle assembling mine. I really wanted to do it for the learning experience, but just flat ran out of time.
Well he said he did. He originally quoted me 3 hours of work, and it took him 8 so I would guess he wasn't lying.
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