1949 Mercury coupe - Page 3 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #31 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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I had to remove some of the inner fender to make room for the steering box. I thought I was going to have to mount the box lower and was worried about ground clearance. Then I noticed that I was putting the steering arm on the wrong way up. Now everything looks good and all the steering components are in the right place. I did some measuring and there should be an inch or two clearance between the steering box and the exhaust manifold.
I did some modifying on the speedometer and got the Auto Meter in place. It makes for a good looking set of gauges.
This build isn't going to be your typical lead sled. I kind of think of it as a mild custom hot rod Merc that'll be made to be driven.
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post #32 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 11:07 PM
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Check out JAMCO for all your old school Ford/Mercury custom suspension needs. They have a lot of cool conversion kits like tubular A-arm conversions and lowering springs, without the cost of a Mustang 2 set-up. My 53' Ford sedan had a bunch of their stuff and I can speak for its quality. That is one hell of a car my friend!
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post #33 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
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I'm doing a bit of body work for a change of pace. There's a lot of heating and beating and welding involved.
I dug out a set of 53 Ford headlight rings so I'll French them in. They usually just weld the rings onto the fronts of the fenders and putty them in but that ends up with kind of a bug eyed appearance. I cut the headlight opening bigger and pulled the ring into place from the back. This will take way less filler and will retain the rounded fender and still keep the Ford inner chrome.
I tried one of the front mags for looks but it's just got one stud so it'll fit. I'm getting the local machinist to mill 11/16" holes in the Merc pattern then ordinary long straight shank mag wheel nuts will work. A local supplier wants almost $8 each for the nuts and on Ebay they're $25 for 20 of them.
Is that a pic of Elvis in the upper left of the door at top right of finder
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post #34 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 03:24 AM
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Elvis?

Looks more like John Bonham of Led Zep to me.
Russ
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post #35 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 06:12 PM
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Thumbs up

When I grow up I wanna be just like this guy. How many people would even attempt this build. I probably woulda looked at that carcass and pumped a few more holes in it and never thought of the car again. There`s talk on CNN about the 2nd Coming of Christ. Could he already be here?

I love watching a master craftsman at work. I reckon us young guys (43) really don`t know chit!

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post #36 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 07:28 PM
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reminds me of one of my first projects when I was about 16. 1951 Ford Victoria, except it had about 10x the amount of holes. bird shot, .22, slugs, all kinds of horrible things! Only, being 16 I just hammered them smooth and covered them with fiberglass/bondo! looked really dang good from the outside.


Nice project
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post #37 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 08:10 PM
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[I love watching a master craftsman at work. I reckon us young guys (43) really don`t know chit! [/quote]

This is a build that most (so called) body men would just look at and say (Fudge this)
Good work and thanks for posting

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post #38 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to get the engine compartment and the body interior ready for a coat of paint. I'm going to use Zero Rust flat black. You're supposed to be able to paint over rust and it'll stop the rusting process but I'll wire brush it where I can get at it anyway.
I started by removing the undercoating on the floor with a large screwdriver used as a scraper. Some of it I needed a hammer to chisel it off. Next I wire brushed it with an angle grinder and it cleaned up real nice.
Bear in mind this car sat in a pasture for 48 years, most of the time minus glass, and the elements had little effect on the metal. The lack of rust is the reason I'm not too worried about the bullet holes. You can fix holes but rust will never quit.
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post #39 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 11:36 PM
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I love the way a wire wheel attachment works on an angle grinder for cleaning up rust, I also use it for removing stubborn gasket material.

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post #40 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 11:39 PM
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I love the way a wire wheel attachment works on an angle grinder for cleaning up rust, I also use it for removing stubborn gasket material.
Will it work for removing stubborn "in-laws" ?? lol
Rob

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post #41 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 07:00 AM
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Remember Rob, the only difference between inlaws and outlaws is that inlaws are not wanted.
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post #42 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 11:52 PM
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D Pope, you are one amusing and resourceful guy! One can tell that you have had a lifetime's worth of experience at getting things to work ....that is true "Hot Rodding"
You're one of those people who can overcome a problem, big or small with grace and finesse. I admire people like you!

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post #43 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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I've been a farmer all my life so overcoming mechanical problems comes naturally.
It was time for the firewall so first I cut the remainder of the old one out. I have a zip disc on one angle grinder, a grinding disc on another and a wire wheel on the third so it makes it kind of handy. I had a shop bend the firewall out of 14 gauge so it should be fairly sturdy. I was going to weld it in but went to bolts instead.
I shortened the Merc tranny cover and it looks like it'll clear everything but I can't be sure until the 460 is back in the hole. I got a set of pedals from a 65 Ford pickup and bolted them in. I might to have to bend the brake pedal over to the left to gain more space for the gas pedal. The old pickup pedals are spread apart too much anyway.
I just put the bucket seat in for trial purposes but I'm going to retain the Merc seat. It'll just get mounted a few inches farther back.
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post #44 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 09:31 PM
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I can`t believe this thing has floor pans in it! Down here in New Orleans that car would have been dark brown dirt.

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post #45 of 147 (permalink) Old 12-14-2010, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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There's a lot to be said about a dry climate when it comes to old tin!
I got a tilt/telescope column off a 70s Chrysler and a brake booster off an 82 Camaro and they're going to work OK. After removing a bunch of excess garbage off the column (I'm not done yet though) I adapted the Chrysler U-joints to work on the Ford box but they wouldn't allow enough deflection to work. I got a better setup from the local wrecker. It has the same spline as the Ford box but there's a flat spot in it so I had to grind a flat spot in the shaft to suit. I have to lengthen the shaft between the universals now so the rear one is right at the firewall. This will cut the deflection angle in half so that'll work. I also need to put a bearing at the bottom end of the shortened column.
With no disc brakes I'll need a single compartment master cylinder like the 65 Ford half ton used. It'll hook up to the booster fairly easily. I might have to use a different length pushrod though.
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