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Mr.Scharf's 1993 Foxbody Notch

409K views 1K replies 92 participants last post by  devindc625 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm finially getting around to posting my 1993 Foxbody notchback project in the car build up section. I got this little jewel at a yard sale for $300 bucks. At the time the owner told me that it needed a transmission and didn't run. After I got it home I put 5 quarts of transmission fluid in it and proceeded to drive it for 6 months. I also had to change the oil. It was way over filled and it was RED fluid. I guess we all know what he did. Oh well. His ignorance was a great deal for me. Anyway I'll list the mechanicals and post up some pictures. I don't think the pictures are in any particualr order. I'm much further along than this first batch of pictures may suggest. I'll post more pic's later. Below are the motor spec's and mechanicals.

New motor is a 587 cid (9.4 liters). 4.560 bore x 4.5 inch stroke.

1999 SVO Block bored .030 over
UPDATE - 2015 Ford Racing A460 Big Bore Block
4.3 stroke Ford SVO Crank
UPDATE - Lunati Forged 4.5 Stroke Crank
UPDATE - Jon Kaase Aluminium Oil Pump
J&E Flat Tops
UPDATE - Diamond 4.560 Bore Pistons
Eagle H-Beams with ARP bolt upgrade
UPDATE - Callies Ultra H-Beam Rods
ARP Main studs
ARP Head Studs
SVO M-6049-A429 Cobra Jet Aluminium Heads
UPDATE - Jon Kaase P-51 Heads Fully Race Ported By Phillip Oakley at Oakley Motorsports
Lunati 51606 Solid Roller Cam (.735/.735) with matching roller lifters, valve springs & retainer kit.
Update: CompCams custom grind solid roller cam (spec'd by Lem Evans at B.F. Evans FORD)
Manely Extreme Duty Stainless Valves (2.25/1.76)
Ford Racing Chromemoly pushrods
UPDATE - Trend Chromemoly pushrods
Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers (1.73)
UPDATE - Comp Chromemoly Roller Rocker Arms
Comp Cams Rocker Stud Girdle
UPDATE: Jomar rocker stud girdle
Edelbrock 4150 Victor 460 Intake (I really want the Mafia intake though)
UPDATE: TrickFlow Mafia 4500 style intake
Choice of Carbs:
QuickFuel Q Series 4150 1050 Carbuerator
--or--
QuickFuel E-85 4150 1050 Carbuerator
Update: QuickFuel QFX 1450 CFM Carb
Aeromotive SS Electric Fuel Pump
Update: MagnaFuel ProTuner 750 Series In-Line Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Bypass Style Regulator
Aeromotive A1000 Carbureted Bypass Fuel Pressure Regulator
CSR 2 Inch Open Spacer
Update: Jomar 1 1/2 inch power cone spacer from Lem Evans (THANKS LEM!!)
CSR Electric Water Pump (natural finish)
Update: Star Machine Standard Vacuum Pump & drive mandrel kit from Phillip Oakley at Oalkey Motorsports
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
UPDATE: MSD Digital 7 (7530T) ignition box with HVC coil
UPDATE: MSD Flying Magnetic Crank Trigger
MSD 8577 Mechanical Distributor
NOS Big Shot Plate System
Harwood 6" Cowl Lift Off Hood
Mad Dog Headers ( 2 inch primaries with 3.5 inch Collectors)
Update: Custom made headers 2 1/4 primaries into 2 3/8th step collectors with 5 inch exit
Power Master 140 Amp Alternator
Power Master High Torque Mini Starter
Dougs Electric Exhaust Cutouts
Summit 10 Gallon Fuel Cell
8 AN Braided Fuel Supply & Return Line
AN Fittings Galore
UPR Front K-Member
UPR A Arms
UPR Caster/Camber Plates
UPR Manual Rack Bump Steer Kit
QA1 Front Struts with Coil Over 175 Pound Springs
Strange Drag Race Front Disc Brakes
Update: Strange Drag Race Rear Disc Brakes
Griffin Radiator (with CSR over flow)
Flex-a-Lite 13 1/2 inch dual puller fans (4600 CFM)
TCI Full Competition C6 Reverse Manual Valve Body with Trans Brake
TCI 4500 RPM Stall Converter
TCI Trans Cooler (huge x large)
UPDATE - Abruzzi "Mac Daddy" Powerglide Transmission
UPDATE - Abruzzi 10 inch 5900 RPM Torque Converter

B&M Mega Shifter
P.E.M. 3 inch diameter chromemoly driveshaft via Cale Aronson
UPDATE - Strange 3 1/2 inch chromemoly driveshaft 1350 Solid U-Joints
Ford 9 Inch Rear (setup for stock style suspension)
UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms (with aluminium bushings)
Moog 4 banger rear springs
Strange Drag Race Adjustable Rear Shocks
Moser 35 Spline Axles
Strange Pro Nodular Iron Center Section (Full Spool with 3.62 Pro Gear Set)
Billet Specialties 15 x 10 Rear Wheels
Mickey Thompson 28x12.5 ET Streets
Billet Specialties 15x3.5 Front Wheels
Mickey Thompson Sportsman tires (skinnies, I can't remember the size)
Jegs Mild Steel 12 poit cage kit
Scat ProCar Seats
G Force 5 Point Harnesses

There went tuition for one of the kids... The world needs ditch diggers too!!

$50 bucks says I forgot at least 20 other things... LOL

Oh yes... Like the motor plate and FluidDamper Harmonic Balancer!
UPDATE: Innovators West Harmonic Balancer

What she looked like the day I got her!!



A tired old 2.3 litre with 102.000 miles on the clock.



Battle Box Reinforcements In And Welded.


12pt Cage In And Welded. (Hot Rod #3 in the background. Sorry... It's a bone stock chebby)


Another Cage Picture.


Hood That I Got From A Guy On CraigsList In Cincinnati. $150 Bucks. What A Deal!! It Fits Perfect!!


View Of Hood Cowl From The Inside.



Greasey Ugly Mess...
 
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8
#3 · (Edited)
More pic's..

Brand New Billet Specialties Wheels & Brand New Mickey Thompson's. Life is good!!



Griffin Dominator Radiator & UPR Caster Camber Plates.



QA1 Struts with UPR Coil Over Spring Kit With 175# Eibach Springs. UPR K-Member & A-Arms



Rear Slotted Rotor Disc Brake Kit & UPR Control Arms.



Summit Racing Foam Filled 10 Gallon Fuel Cell. Interior Is Now Fully Painted Firewall To Trunk As Well.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Will you be OK with 28x12.5s without a tub?
After I got the rear end in I sat it down on the tires. Everything cleard fine. The only place I was concerned with is the front part of the fender at the bottom. It looks like I only have about a 1/2 inch of clearance. If these tires get taller at 100 miles an hour like I think they should I may have an issue. I may have to clearance the fender slightly to make it not rub. Once I get the front brakes on and it sitting on the ground I'll take a picture and show you what I'm talking about.

Other than that they look great. I went with the Billet Specialties wheels instead of the Weld wheels because the billet specialties were an SFI spec wheel. I'm not sure if I needed them or not but it wasn't much more money for the same style wheel.

....i also have dreams of sticking a set of 2.25:1 gears under it and taking it to Bonneville!! I want to join the 200 MPH club.

Hear that Blown473?? I'm going to make a run at that fire breathing pickup you are building!! ;)
 
#5 ·
Looking good Chris!

Taxman the ET Streets are a 12.5" section width not tread width the tread is only ~9.5" they are just a hair smaller than the 28x10.5 ET Drags.

Did the rear springs start settling yet Chris?
 
#8 ·
Thanks!! I really don't know what I'm doing... I'm just making it up as I go along. I could really use a mentor. This site is as close as that gets. But at least I had the sense to build a BBF!!


BigBlok86Ranger said:
Did the rear springs start settling yet Chris?
Not yet. I don't have the motor or tranny dropped in it yet though. With any luck that will happen this weekend and she will sit down more on the rear wheels. The Strange front brake kit will get here today. Once I get that on I'll be able to set it down on the wheels and get the motor in for a mock up. I still need to run the front bars for the 12 point cage into the engine bay that will attach to the motor plate as well. I'm still not sure if I'm going to hide them in the front fenders and then bring them back in after I pass the strut towers or if I should run them through the strut towers. Time will tell. Any suggestions on how to do that part are welcome.
 
#11 ·
The UPR control arms have adjustments for both the upper and lower. When I installed them I put them in at the recommend setting. I think it was 9 1/4 inches for the top control arms and 17 1/2 for the lower control arms. I could move it a bit that way. I'm not sure how much the axle will move back with weight on it. With those control arms on it, it is amazingly snug in there and really doesn't budge. It will obviously go up and down. But there is no side to side or front to back movement what so ever. I'm not that worried about it. I'll be sure it is right before I go to the track.

Got any suggestions as to how to run the front roll cage bars into the engine bay? Read the previous post I did in this thread for more details.
 
#12 ·
Going through the strut tower is probably about the only way, I had thought about trimming out the shape of the cage tube where it would pass just to the outside of the caster camber plate but not sure how it would work for you. That would seem easiest way to me versus trying to line up the holes and pass the tube through it with out making the hole to large to weld all the way around.
 
#14 ·
Yep. Just a flat piece of aluminium to hold the gauges. Nothing fancy.

I still have the truck. It is still set up to drag race. I have about (and I'm guessing here) a 425 horse power 466 engine in it now. It keeps up with the Corvette up to about 90 mph. Then the Corvette runs away. I'll keep the truck forever. I like it to much to get rid of it. Plus it will pull the Mustang to the track and back. I'd like to race the Mustang and the truck. You know pull in the track with the truck with the Mustang on the trailer and run them both while I'm there.
 
#18 ·
Hey Thanks!!

Below is a link to the radiator on Summit Racing. It is a direct fit. I have to say as well that I was impressed with it when I pulled it out. It looked really good. I was concerned with it being only a 2 core. But the cores are huge. I've never seen cores that big.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-8-00165/
 
#20 ·
Hey

Let me know how this works out I am looking for one to go in mine and I was leary of the stuff on Summit and Jegs. I will need a different one since we have changed the complete setup. I was going to get one of the models with twin fans and a nice sroud built in. Gota love this custom stuff.

Clay

Clay
 
#22 · (Edited)
Nope I am in India for 2 weeks will be home on the 6th.

I am probally several months for getting all the wiring done and the other odds and ends so you most likley will beat me. I will have to spend 2 weeks in the UK in Jan. as well.
That Griffin is a nice part.

Thanks.
Clay
 
#24 ·
Frustrating Day

Well after working on the Mustang all day I tried to drop the motor in. The oil pan that I have on it is the truck/foxbody swap pan. The only problem is when I had it in my truck I had a local guy modify it. It now has a bigger rear baffled sump. And yep... You guessed it. It would not clear my UPR K-member by about 2 inches. No amount of pushing or pulling was going to get it in there. So before I tore something up I pulled it back out.

Sooooo close yet so far!! #*^%#%$!!!

Now where did I put my B.F. hammer?? Damn the luck...


I know Ford has the foxbody swap pan. But I'd like something bigger that holds more oil and is baffled. Anybody have any part numbers for me? I'm going to be on the internet searching for what I need tonight. Hopefully I'll get something here by mid week. I'll choke if I have to buy a $300 Moroso pan.
 
#25 ·
Chris my truck uses a fox swap style pan as well and I am going with the Moroso 20625 but that pan is ~$420 but set up for dragracing or the other pan which is same shape but without the windage tray and crank scraper it is 20620 I believe and that one is a little over $300. The Canton pans Lem was selling were nice pieces but they won't fit with the headers and starter.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Rear End Pictures

I got a couple of pictures of the rear end this evening. The 9 inch housing was purchased from Quick Performance on eBay. It came with Aluminium spherical bushings and had the brackets on it to bolt right into a foxbody. I then got axel housing reinforcement brackets from Jegs and welded them on.


9 inch housing from Quick Performance with Moser 35 spline axles



Strange 9 inch nodular iron pro center section with 3.62 pro gear set and full spool
 
#30 ·
Chris it is starting to come together... Only one thing I will say.... there were a lot of other parts I could have saved you some $$$ on... ;)

:p:p:p
 
#31 ·
The only other things I have bought recently were the front Strange Brakes and the radiator. And I thought I had asked you about the brakes.

...or maybe I didn't.

I still need a tach, manual rack & pinion (I'd lke the quick ratio), 5pt harnesses but I won't buy those until I'm ready to go because they expire, manual offset master cylinder, brake lines, maybe some Kirkey seats (I hate the Scat Procar seats I have. They look nice but I don't fit well) and probably 17 other things I can't think of off the top of my head. Let me know if you can do anything with that list and we will go from there.
 
#32 ·
Hey Cale.. There was one other thing.

How about a larger set of balls so I'm not afraid to drive the thing. Preferably ones made of steel!! :D You know.. The same kind Chuck Yeager had.


Am I going to need some kind of license to drive this thing? I have no idea what the rules are. I don't know anybody that does this stuff. I just want to haul butt..

Will a pilots license work? I have one of those. I can land several different types of airplanes....so I'm thinking I can land a 1993 Ford Mustang too!


And I have a Class A CDL with Hazmat endorsement!! Surely one of those will work.
 
#34 ·
Chris you will need a comp license with a physical card every year and the cage will need to be certed quicker than 9.50 or faster than 135mph. Funny thing is it is the same physical as our DOT physicals but they still want one yearly. The cage should certify to 8.50 just have to have decent welds with good penetration and no grinding of welds!!!

A racecar shop should have a guy that will come certify cages usually about $75 around here. A decent shop should be able to look over the cage and give you some help if their are any issues before you pay the guy to show up to cert it.

I believe the comp license consists of making 2 60" passes then 2 180" passes then 2 330" passes in fornt of 3 license holders and they become your sponsors. I may be wrong on some of it but that is the way I understand it.

P.S. When you make the passes for your license make sure the car will go fast enough to warrant the license or they won't sign off.
 
#35 ·
Chris you will need a comp license with a physical card every year and the cage will need to be certed quicker than 9.50 or faster than 135mph. Funny thing is it is the same physical as our DOT physicals but they still want one yearly. The cage should certify to 8.50 just have to have decent welds with good penetration and no grinding of welds!!!

A racecar shop should have a guy that will come certify cages usually about $75 around here. A decent shop should be able to look over the cage and give you some help if their are any issues before you pay the guy to show up to cert it.

I believe the comp license consists of making 2 60" passes then 2 180" passes then 2 330" passes in fornt of 3 license holders and they become your sponsors. I may be wrong on some of it but that is the way I understand it.

P.S. When you make the passes for your license make sure the car will go fast enough to warrant the license or they won't sign off.
That's cheap. I'm looking at the NHRA chassis cert on my car (8.50) and it cost $190.
 
#37 ·
Hey thanks for the info guys. That helps. I knew about the "NO" grinding the welds so it is all untouched. I think it should certify to 8.50 pretty easy. The cage looks really good and the welds are a lot better than I've seen on most out at our local track. I have talked to the local guy at our speed shop. They do have somebody that will certify it. BUT.. It is $160 for that. But hey.. What is another $160 after the $30,000 or so that I have already spent.
 
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