429 install into 1968 montego wagon - Page 23 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #331 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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I did measure end play, I don't remember what it was but it was on the ragged edge of being within spec. Is it possible that the converter died and killed the trans? Or a combination of both? Like I said it worked flawlessly until I adjusted the gas pedal to actuate the full pull of the carb throttle. Then ten minutes and an 60' burnout it died and started slipping. Do you think it happened over time and built up or could it have been all at once? Thanks Steve!

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post #332 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 06:08 PM
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Only a 60' burn out??? LOL

If the stator clutch in the converter broke it would feel like the transmission is slipping. Basically what happens is you loose the torque multiplication that occurs during converter stall. Once you get out of stall it will act normal. If it broke it would happen all at once and yes under heavy load would put it under strain so it would make sense. I personally would not use a Dayco, GER, or Bosshogg converter.

Get it apart and will see what the deal is. If the unit is not broke then you can be sure it is the converter. Problem with converters is hard to know what is going on without cutting them open.

Reason I asked about the end play is if a washer slipped would close up the end play and if one is missing would be too much play. Really if was the case I'd say you would have had an issue long before now. Think I an now leaning towards a bad converter.
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post #333 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Only a 60' burn out??? LOL

If the stator clutch in the converter broke it would feel like the transmission is slipping. Basically what happens is you loose the torque multiplication that occurs during converter stall. Once you get out of stall it will act normal. If it broke it would happen all at once and yes under heavy load would put it under strain so it would make sense. I personally would not use a Dayco, GER, or Bosshogg converter.

Get it apart and will see what the deal is. If the unit is not broke then you can be sure it is the converter. Problem with converters is hard to know what is going on without cutting them open.

Reason I asked about the end play is if a washer slipped would close up the end play and if one is missing would be too much play. Really if was the case I'd say you would have had an issue long before now. Think I an now leaning towards a bad converter.
hahah yeah i let off! believe me it was still going. i thought using the bosshog would be better than a $60 autozone converter like last time. guess im returning and bitchin to them about that. hope to open it up sometime this week or maybe even tomorrow to see whats going on inside. something just let go and died all at once is what it felt like to me. i drove it work and was fine drove it around and was fine then did a burnout and boom donezo.
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post #334 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hoping to get trans opened up early this week. One quick question is the converter supposed to bang around when you shake it back and forth?

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post #335 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 01:12 PM
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Ahh the old shake test... LOL

Shops would do that to determine if it was bad. The stator clutch and driven turbine are free to move to an extent since the stator and input shaft is what they mount on, but there are washers between everything and they really should not move enough to be "banging around". I believe you have an old converter laying around that is good, use that as a reference.
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post #336 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Lol yeah I have a couple. I will have to shale them too. Maybe take it to a trans shop near by and get them to shake it.

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post #337 of 430 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 02:21 PM
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Find an expert shaker LOL

Like I said have to cut them open to know the condition, but if it is banging around a lot more than a know good one, yeah know it is failed.
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post #338 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so in the mean time I opened up my transmission I got with the 460 I bought that was told it was rebuilt. Well I got it apart and it was indeed rebuilt so I put my tailshaft in that one. It was the long lincoln tailshaft with the ribbed case. Has a screw in modulator which was a blue stripe, can't find a black stripe screw in one tho. Dont know if they just don't make black stripe screw in ones or what. Also I noticed that the linkage inside doesn't have anything to keep it in a certain gear like my other one was. The new one is 1972 case and the old one was 1977 case. Is this bad? So the only thing that holds it in gear would be the shifter? What screw in type modulator should I get? Another blue stripe? All that's left is modulator and put my shift kit in the valvebody. Then the trans can go back in.

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post #339 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 06:51 PM
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The spring loaded detent is in the valve body on that one. That's what keeps it locked in gear.

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post #340 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well that clears that up thanks. Anyone know which screw in modulator is best? It had a blue stripe one in it, dont know how that rates.
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post #341 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Alright guys so I have a blue stripe modulator on the way tomorrow. It was between that and white and it already had a blue one so I went with that. Can always swap it out later. Anyway all I have left is to take the valvebody apart and install my transgo shift kit tomorrow and then its ready to go in. I am so pumped to drive my car again! I feel like its been forever!! Like I said I only got to drive it for ten minutes with a fully functional gas pedal lol. Anyway this will be the Third time the trans has been out and back in, lets hope that the third time really is a charm. Have a busy day at work tomorrow but should get it in by tomorrow night.
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post #342 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Sgould this piece be tight in there or move freely? As of right now I got it out which was very hard to do and got it to where it alnost sludes all the way in but its tight. Just curious!

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post #343 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 07:46 PM
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All of the valve body parts must move with ease. However, when the parts are immersed in ATF that is. There must be a burr in the valve or there is something else causing the issue.

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post #344 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well they all did except this one. But a plate goes over it to hold it in and it really can't move anyone but it was a pain to get out. I took sone 1500 grit and smoothed the inside oxidation on the valvebody and then on the aluminum slug and it seems to fit much better. So I will keep at it tomorrow and put it all back together. Cant wait to see how this shift kit works.

Thanks again,
Ryan

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post #345 of 430 (permalink) Old 10-18-2013, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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I got the shift kit installed and the trans is back together and installed. I have a blue stripe vacuum modulator and it shifts way to early. I tried turning it in but it does almost nothing and basically bottomed out. All I can find is blue and white striped ones! Do they make a black stripe screw in type mod?

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