429 install in 69 Fairlane 500 Fastback - Page 2 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #16 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 07:23 AM
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With my set-up I cant get the top two tranny bolts out, so If I pull one they both gotta come out. If/when I do pull them again I am probably going to massage my firewall to remedy the situation.
As for the shock towers the engine will fit without cutting them (I did not cut mine) but changing spark plugs is gonna be a b**ch.
I will probably cut mine when I pull the engine again so I can run some larger headers.
There are a few good threads here about cutting shock towers just have to dig a little to find them.
The way I plan to do it is meaure 1" above each of the A-arm mounting holes and cut front to back along that line, then measure to the coil spring to see how much I can cut away then plate it back with 3/16".
I will probably run some sort of export brace when I do mine, no one has said it is really needed but it would make me feel better after cutting on the towers.
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post #17 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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I agree on cutting the shock towers. They had that section made like that for a reason (maybe) haha, so I want to know that I used something to keep it strong for peace of mind. BTW, great site here. Trying to deal with egos on other sites just makes it hard to get useful info.
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post #18 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 11:09 AM
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Yeah I have my shock towers cut back like an inch from when I installed my 390 in my wagon. And even at an inch it is terrible to get the center two plugs out. Its like a game of twister lol. Believe me you will happy you did it. I did a little massaging on my firewall to get the bolts out. Also make sure you get some really good fans to push through the rad. I bought cheap ebay ones and they didn't work for crap. So I got the mechanical fan on that I have now and it works great. Tight squeeze but it works.

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post #19 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Gonna see what kind of room I have. If I have the space for a solid fan ,I'm going that route. Don't like depending on electrical to cool my engine .
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post #20 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 03:29 PM
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I am not sure which water pump you have but I have been told that pumps for early T-birds are ~1/2" shorter than other pumps but (if true) you would have to source a pulley that would work for your application.
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post #21 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 03:40 PM
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Honestly I used a $50 aluminum waterpump off ebay and it works great although it isn't the shorter one. The shorter tbird one is rebuilt on some sites for around $125 if you can find one and then you still have to get a pulley.

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post #22 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, here's my delima

I have this 429 ,72 model on my shop floor. It has 70k miles on it. My original plan was to install new timing chain, check compression, and lett her eat until she starts blowing smoke throu the rings. It has D2VE heads ( low compression) open chamber , bla bla bla. One part of me wants to stick to my plan and drive it for a while. But, the other says to wait , get the good heads on it, install pistons and rings,lower bearings, and put mild cam in it , then put a motor in the car that I know what I've got. I guess I need to get the timing chain back in it ,and check the compression before I make any decisions. Some mornings I wake up thinking I'll just buy an engine stand and take my time and build a motor that I want. Other mornings I just want to get it in the car and drive it. Hahaha. My shop is not big enough to have both car and motor in it at the same time and be ale to spread out and work. I hate seeing the car sitting outside with a tarp over it. I'm just wondering how long I could drive it with 70 k on it already before it needs rebuilding.
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post #23 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigred69 View Post
I have this 429 ,72 model on my shop floor. It has 70k miles on it. My original plan was to install new timing chain, check compression, and lett her eat until she starts blowing smoke throu the rings. It has D2VE heads ( low compression) open chamber , bla bla bla. One part of me wants to stick to my plan and drive it for a while. But, the other says to wait , get the good heads on it, install pistons and rings,lower bearings, and put mild cam in it , then put a motor in the car that I know what I've got. I guess I need to get the timing chain back in it ,and check the compression before I make any decisions. Some mornings I wake up thinking I'll just buy an engine stand and take my time and build a motor that I want. Other mornings I just want to get it in the car and drive it. Hahaha. My shop is not big enough to have both car and motor in it at the same time and be ale to spread out and work. I hate seeing the car sitting outside with a tarp over it. I'm just wondering how long I could drive it with 70 k on it already before it needs rebuilding.
Honestly I would slap a new timing chain on it, do a compression test and put it in. Save up and get another motor and work that thing and when its done you just swap them out. I recently purchased a 1970 lincoln 460 with 50, 000 or so on it and when I took it apart I found the bearings were in great shape. Even still had the crosshatching on the cylinder walls. My plan was to send to machine shop and get everything checked and new cam bearings then install everything back in with new rings and bearings. Ported heads and a cam. But then my trans died so that's on hold. But you will be able to drive your car around with building an engine. Then if you so choose you can make a monster out of the other engine and take your time.

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post #24 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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This motor did not smoke a lick. And it would absolutely boil the tires off the Torino it was in. Man, someone needs to buy my dang wheels so I an get the black D slot wheels I want. Hahaha. Gonna be out of town this weekend but my parts come in Friday. I'll be going back together and buttoning up the motor next week for a test crank on the shop floor.
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post #25 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 12:30 PM
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Lol I know what you mean. Boat anchor? I don't think so... what kind of wheels are they? Have any pics? I might be interested... I'd say just put it in and have fun with it til you blow it up lol. My 429 is hurting and blowing a little smoke but still has no probably melting the tires. Cant wait to drive it again

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post #26 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Lol I know what you mean. Boat anchor? I don't think so... what kind of wheels are they? Have any pics? I might be interested... I'd say just put it in and have fun with it til you blow it up lol. My 429 is hurting and blowing a little smoke but still has no probably melting the tires. Cant wait to drive it again

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Gotem in the auction block section here. Yep gonna run her until she's ready for overhaul. Not gonna do anything special until then to the motor. That way I can drive it and work on the body a bit and get the stance right.
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post #27 of 162 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, tomorrow night I plan on spinning the motor over and checking compression on every cylinder before deciding what to do. I had to buy a starter and it came in today. Tonight I plan on getting everything back together including a new HEI distributor. I'm not going to waste a good gasket set on the timing cover, because mine has a small crack right where the main seal ends. I noticed it while pressure washing the motor a few weeks ago. I also noticed some oil that must have been leaking built up around that area. Now that I look at it, it appears that someone forgot to remove the pan bolts an tried to pry the cover off. I can't think of any other way it would just crack right there. I'm going to test fire it tomorrow evening sitting on my shop floor, Just to see if it will start and idle for 30 seconds. The tranny is still hooked up and full of fluid so I don't see any harm in doing that for just a few seconds to see if it runs. I have a guy who is suppose to be bringing me a new timing cover this weekend. I fired it up 2 weeks ago, but the plugs were nasty and it was still on points. Will report back Friday evening on the results of compression test. What would be decent compression for a stock 429 ? Anyone?
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post #28 of 162 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 08:08 AM
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Ok, tomorrow night I plan on spinning the motor over and checking compression on every cylinder before deciding what to do. I had to buy a starter and it came in today. Tonight I plan on getting everything back together including a new HEI distributor. I'm not going to waste a good gasket set on the timing cover, because mine has a small crack right where the main seal ends. I noticed it while pressure washing the motor a few weeks ago. I also noticed some oil that must have been leaking built up around that area. Now that I look at it, it appears that someone forgot to remove the pan bolts an tried to pry the cover off. I can't think of any other way it would just crack right there. I'm going to test fire it tomorrow evening sitting on my shop floor, Just to see if it will start and idle for 30 seconds. The tranny is still hooked up and full of fluid so I don't see any harm in doing that for just a few seconds to see if it runs. I have a guy who is suppose to be bringing me a new timing cover this weekend. I fired it up 2 weeks ago, but the plugs were nasty and it was still on points. Will report back Friday evening on the results of compression test. What would be decent compression for a stock 429 ? Anyone?
Others may chime in but I was always more concerned with the difference between the cylinders than the absolute value due to testing conditions (so long as all values where at 100 psi or greater).
The rule of thumb I was taught that you don't want more than 20 psi difference between your lowest and highest reading. One other thing is that adjacent cylinders should be no more than ~12 psi difference.
I would do the check after you run the engine for a minute to get the cylinders wet with oil, also watch how each cylinder builds pressure on the gage as that can sometime indicate issues.
Again this is how I have always done it so I am not sure how correct it is.
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post #29 of 162 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, that's how I was going to do it too. More concerned with the difference between cylinders. Thanks
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post #30 of 162 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Not good news. I got home today and installed my new distributor and made everything ready for a test crank. Holy cow, a half a turn the motor fired up and idled. Scared us to death, as we weren't expecting it to just pop off. And run like that. Ran it for 20 or 30 seconds and shut it down. Started checking compression, and that's when the bad news started. I checked number 1 cylinder,150lbs. Number 2 115 lbs. number 3 50 lbs, and it went that way all the way around the motor. I poured oil in the cylinders that were low and the compression jumped to 150 lbs. gonna just yank the heads, pull it down, and start a fresh rebuild.
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