Trying to put a 460 in my mustang - Page 2 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #16 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Well I am definitely not racing mine at least anytime soon. Thanks for helping everyone it really is nice to come here and get the help I need rather then getting told it can't be done
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post #17 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 02:37 PM
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I have a set of Crites GEN to mounts if you decide to go that route. I just "gave away" a set of Crites Gen I mounts, and ceramic headers.

Whatever you do, DONT by MPG kits. He makes a conversion kit, I got it in mine. I think the mount design is not as good as crites, and his headers required a ton of re work. BUT once its in, it the Eng does sit nice in the car, and you can use stock hood etc.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #18 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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I have a set of Crites GEN to mounts if you decide to go that route. I just "gave away" a set of Crites Gen I mounts, and ceramic headers.

Whatever you do, DONT by MPG kits. He makes a conversion kit, I got it in mine. I think the mount design is not as good as crites, and his headers required a ton of re work. BUT once its in, it the Eng does sit nice in the car, and you can use stock hood etc.
What exactly is that? I am definitely going to put the 460 in. If it can be done why not have a nice big powerful engine in there lol I mean that is what muscle cars are for. If they will help me get the engine in I would love them. How much do you want for them? I live in FL.
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post #19 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 10:19 AM
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What exactly is that? I am definitely going to put the 460 in. If it can be done why not have a nice big powerful engine in there lol I mean that is what muscle cars are for. If they will help me get the engine in I would love them. How much do you want for them? I live in FL.

In a nutshell, Crites is sort of the leader in 460 conversion kits in early fords. There was Gen I, which mocked the 69 boss set up, eng was high and forward.
The GEN II lowered the Eng, and sets if farther back. To do this, along with the frame mount towers or pillars, you will need the stock 429/460 rubber mounts that can be had frm any autoparts store, and exhaust syst. Crites makes long tube headers for the Mustang 460 C6 or C4 but not a clutch car.
Also JBA makes shorty headers. Depending on how much HP you want to make, you pick you header ,OR you can run manifolds.
That is really all you HAVE to do. Notching the towers is a quick and fairly simple upgrade if you have a welder and basic skills. Its been documented on here enough to get you through it.

If you decide to go with Crites, Ill sell you my frame mounts cheaper. Prob with Crites, they often have to make the stuff and it takes WEEEKS.

If your just building a street cruiser, I would go with shorties.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #20 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah right now I am just trying to figure out what I have to get and have to do to get it driving. If I could just figure that out I will build things up later when I have more money. I just want it driving at this point
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post #21 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 04:44 PM
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Yeah right now I am just trying to figure out what I have to get and have to do to get it driving. If I could just figure that out I will build things up later when I have more money. I just want it driving at this point
You will need frame mounts, insulator or motor mounts, C6 Trans mount, either crites headers or stock manifolds. I did see a guy at the track that had significantly modified a set of 69 or 70 429 headers to work. front sump pan, drive shaft. Youll need to think about the rear, if you have an 8 it wont hold up much abuse.
I also have a narrowed 9 inch housing that bolts to stock 67 springs.

Regardless, your gonna need the frame mounts. If you go Crites, Ill hook you up, as I don't need these.

The Gen II mounts alleviate some of the water pump rad clearances had with the Gen I. Eng is farther back.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #22 of 148 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ok and where is the best places to get all that? Also will the stock pan work? It is from a 1977 ford f250 ranger. Can I use the mounts from that? Also am I able to run it without headers until I can get custom ones made or will it not work? Also if you think that the ones from the truck I mentioned above won't work and you think the gen 1 is my best bet I will defiantly go with them. I had someone else tell me that using the old mounts mentioned above from the truck ( engine and trans) will just cause problems. And what do I have to do to get the mounts in? Do I have to have them welded in?
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post #23 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-03-2014, 11:07 AM
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Ok and where is the best places to get all that? Also will the stock pan work? It is from a 1977 ford f250 ranger. Can I use the mounts from that? Also am I able to run it without headers until I can get custom ones made or will it not work? Also if you think that the ones from the truck I mentioned above won't work and you think the gen 1 is my best bet I will defiantly go with them. I had someone else tell me that using the old mounts mentioned above from the truck ( engine and trans) will just cause problems. And what do I have to do to get the mounts in? Do I have to have them welded in?
Stock pan will work so long as its a front sump.
The stock 460/429 insulators (rubber mounts) may work, you will have to cross ref those part numbes with say a early 70s 460 car. Not sure if the Trucks used a different rubber mount.
The frame mounts, what connects the motor mount to the chasis is the key.
YOu dont want GEN I, as it puts the eng up really high and forward, GEN II is the standard.
Exh manifolds are fine, again depending on where the exh collector is. If in the middle between the middle two cyl, prob wont work as the shock tower is right there. If it dumps out the back and down, your probably fine.
Go with the GEN II frame mounts, and rubber motor mounts, that way you can just order a set of Crites GEN II headers later on, or use a set of JBA Shorties. No need for customs as they are pricey and really not worth it unless your running huge horses or some other custom clearnace issues.

This is all based on the assumption your keeping the stock suspension, change to coil over or MII front suspension, it all changes.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #24 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Stock pan will work so long as its a front sump.
The stock 460/429 insulators (rubber mounts) may work, you will have to cross ref those part numbes with say a early 70s 460 car. Not sure if the Trucks used a different rubber mount.
The frame mounts, what connects the motor mount to the chasis is the key.
YOu dont want GEN I, as it puts the eng up really high and forward, GEN II is the standard.
Exh manifolds are fine, again depending on where the exh collector is. If in the middle between the middle two cyl, prob wont work as the shock tower is right there. If it dumps out the back and down, your probably fine.
Go with the GEN II frame mounts, and rubber motor mounts, that way you can just order a set of Crites GEN II headers later on, or use a set of JBA Shorties. No need for customs as they are pricey and really not worth it unless your running huge horses or some other custom clearnace issues.

This is all based on the assumption your keeping the stock suspension, change to coil over or MII front suspension, it all changes.
Ok so the mounts you have won't work? Also you said you had something for the rear diff? I found out I have a 8"
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post #25 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 04:49 PM
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Ok so the mounts you have won't work? Also you said you had something for the rear diff? I found out I have a 8"

The 8" will take some abuse before breaking. With a stock 460 it should last for a good while if you don't abuse it too hard that is...They usually twist off the pinion if its abused too much.

I did abuse the 8" in my 67' and i too, have a stock 460 (small RV cam) it didn't explode nor give me any issues while it was under the car. I even re-used the axles for the factory 67' Mustang 9" that replaced it.

1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

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post #26 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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The 8" will take some abuse before breaking. With a stock 460 it should last for a good while if you don't abuse it too hard that is...They usually twist off the pinion if its abused too much.

I did abuse the 8" in my 67' and i too, have a stock 460 (small RV cam) it didn't explode nor give me any issues while it was under the car. I even re-used the axles for the factory 67' Mustang 9" that replaced it.
Really? I was told that it would would not work at all and what is your definition of abusing it? lol
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post #27 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014, 10:46 PM
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Really? I was told that it would would not work at all and what is your definition of abusing it? lol
Abusing the 8" is excessive burnouts/neutral-dropping etc. Keep in mind, that i have a manual valve body in my C6 and although i have a stock $250.00 pull-n-save engine it still has enough torque to kill the 8" if i really tried. I did drive it for some miles with the 8" in it though.

Just don't drive it too excessively..

1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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post #28 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Abusing the 8" is excessive burnouts/neutral-dropping etc. Keep in mind, that i have a manual valve body in my C6 and although i have a stock $250.00 pull-n-save engine it still has enough torque to kill the 8" if i really tried. I did drive it for some miles with the 8" in it though.

Just don't drive it too excessively..
So basically don't drive it for like 10,000 miles with it lol. Great thanks for the help guys.
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post #29 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 08:13 AM
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Ok so the mounts you have won't work? Also you said you had something for the rear diff? I found out I have a 8"
The frame mounts I have are GEN II and will work, I dont have the rubber insulator mounts.

Two parts here. Frame mounts, what I have your gonna need regardless,
Rubber insulators or what most folks call motor mounts, go between the frame mounts and eng. Not sure if your TRUCK mounts are the same as the 429/460 passenger mounts, pretty sure they are - but?

So long story short, YES, you are going to need the Frame Mounts. And if you decide to go with headers later, easy enuff to get GEN II headers from Crites, and they will also work with JBs.

I have a rear housing only - 9 inch will bolt right to a Mustang. Shortened a bit, 49.5 inches from flange to flange. Looks stock but allows you to run a bit bigger tirre. I can send you pics of all if you want, PM me your cell or email and Ill shoot em to you.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #30 of 148 (permalink) Old 02-05-2014, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
The frame mounts I have are GEN II and will work, I dont have the rubber insulator mounts.

Two parts here. Frame mounts, what I have your gonna need regardless,
Rubber insulators or what most folks call motor mounts, go between the frame mounts and eng. Not sure if your TRUCK mounts are the same as the 429/460 passenger mounts, pretty sure they are - but?

So long story short, YES, you are going to need the Frame Mounts. And if you decide to go with headers later, easy enuff to get GEN II headers from Crites, and they will also work with JBs.

I have a rear housing only - 9 inch will bolt right to a Mustang. Shortened a bit, 49.5 inches from flange to flange. Looks stock but allows you to run a bit bigger tirre. I can send you pics of all if you want, PM me your cell or email and Ill shoot em to you.
I sent you a message. I appreciate the help. I am really wanting to get this engine in and excited to be able to get it done. I am sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure it is done right.
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