25.1E ----- 64 Fairlane - Page 3 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #31 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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I sure hope it works too.
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post #32 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 09:23 PM
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That's some bitchin engineering, looks great.
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post #33 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 08:33 PM
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Somebody knows what they're doing. Very very nice!

Derek.

1966 Mercury M-100
1976 Ford F250 4x4
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post #34 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the ata boys.

Got side tracked for a few days helping a buddy straighten out bump steer --- align --- scale --- and make up some wheelie bars for his new all fiberglass tube frame truck. Interesting project --- 5.9 Cummins with Pro Charger/Turbo compounding. His old car was a 5.9 altered w/Twin Turbos that ran a best ET in the 8.40's. --- Q
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post #35 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Head Support System aluminum frame work.



Lower side hammer form cutout and edge radius put in with router.



Upper and lower hammer forms made from scrap clamped together with aluminum panel sandwiched in between.The tools in the picture are the tools used to form the dome above the head for max head room.



Lower side of the form that is actually the top of the part.



The dome in the panel is just below the top of the cage.



The finished frame ready to be sent to Innovative Safety Products www.ispseats.com.



Back from ISP with padding and SFI tag.
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post #36 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 12:09 PM
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That is one sick build, your killing me. I had a 63 Mercury Meteor 2 door post for 12yrs that I backyard restored starting at the age of 21. It was built on the 62-64 Fairlane chassis. I'm a sucker for the 62-64 "post" cars.

1987 Mustang GT drag car
472", A429's, 600HP
rollerized C6 with a Merkl t-brake VB
275 Pro drag radials, 9" with 3.89's
Best ET 9.95, best MPH 135
Murphy's law in motion daily
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post #37 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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One of the things I like about this era body styling is the distinctive shape and detail. You could identify make and model from a couple blocks away. Not like today where so many of the cars all look alike. Heck I can't even tell the Foreign cars from the Domestic car any more. Then of course how much of your new Ford economy car is Mazda ???? ---Q
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post #38 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-29-2014, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Drive shaft Tube and drive shaft Loops with removable top.



Mark Williams aluminum drive shaft that is glued together. It came with a tag showing a 3000 ft lbs test and a SFI tag.



Tube/loops top.




Vew from rear end forward. The through tubes in the top 4 link tube access the upper frame rails. The left is for the fire bottle line and the right for the starter cable and exits just forward of the starter.



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post #39 of 337 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Rear drive shaft loop.



Receiver sleeves for removable drive shaft loop.



4130 Chrome moly mounting plate with stand off bushings.



Fire bottle.



Top bottle brackets, bolts and tabs.



Lower bracket drop in receiver tubes. This setup only requires the 2 top bolts making it quick release for easy removal.



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post #40 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Battery box and 16 volt battery.



Box is made from 4130 tubing and 22 gauge cold rolled sheet metal.







Percision Shifter



Shifter mount.
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post #41 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 09:12 AM
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Garage
That is some genius. The template and hammering the head piece, I just picked up a new tool for my stuff. Ive been wondering how I could shape metal for a shifter box. Thanks.

Gydup -67 Coupe, 521 Kaase P51 Comp Solid Roller . Jerico DR4, narrowed & mini tubbed 9 inch with 4:56 spool , Mark Williams Axles on CALTRACS, Shaved towers.
Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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post #42 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-04-2014, 10:57 PM
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I have to post a reply every time you post an update. Makes me want to go out and purchase a new miller tig and hone my skills.

I gotta wonder what type of adhesive they use to glue the driveshaft. I've never heard of such a thing.

Derek.

1966 Mercury M-100
1976 Ford F250 4x4
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post #43 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Gydyup;
You may want to pull up Flow Forming part 1 and 2 on you tube video. It gives more ideas of what can be done. It is not necessary to use a rivet gun its just faster than a hammer and forming tool.

Derek;
About the welding you can do it. Its just -- practice -- practice --- practice.

The Mark Williams aluminum bonding process is called Accu-Bond bond and I believe it is a patented process. --- Q
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post #44 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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The forming tool mentioned above is nothing more than a piece of wood,aluminum or plastic shaped for the job that you hit with the hammer. It allows you to get into the tight areas easier. --- Q
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post #45 of 337 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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On the ground for the first time. Sure is good to stand back --- look at the car and see that it sets right and all the figuring and all the work came out as planned.







Next we start the tin work. Starting with the cowl and cowl transition to the firewall.
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