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25.1E ----- 64 Fairlane

121K views 363 replies 54 participants last post by  flowney 
#1 ·
This is my first new thread. I'll see if I can figure it out with pics and all???

Humble beginnings ----- I know non of you guys have had projects start out like this ha ha. ----- This is my 10 second car project that got out of hand with a little help from my FREINDS ????









Wow looks like it might work.
 
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#3 ·
The car is now a roller and have pics so this will move along fast until we get to where the car is now. I don't want you to think I am building it this fast. There are a lot of photos so if you guys want more detail on something just let me know.

These are the tools used to cut out the body.

Saws all with metal cutting blades



Angle grinder with thin cut off wheel --- when the wheel gets small it is then used on the die grinder.


Die grinder -- adapters --and extended nose.


Spot weld cutters.



















Body gutted and on the chassis jig.
 
#4 ·
Nice work, I'm subscribing to this thread. Now that's what you call gutted.

D


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#7 ·
Looking at the body on the jig it looked like the roof line over the top of front windshield was higher than the rear section. The decision was made to chop the top. 3" out of the front and 2" out of the rear and as it drops slide it back along the "C" post.






This shows a fixture for holding the top at the front. The top pins are stock location and lower pins down 3" and longer as a slider.



2" cut out of the back and holding tabs tack welded to top for positioning.







Copper chill plates clamped on both sides of the panel and tig welded 1" at a time and let cool to eliminate buckling.















Now that the body is roughed out we can get started on the chassis and cage.
 
#9 ·
Chassis and cage layout.



Frame --- 4Link brackets --- upper and lower 4link tubes.



Cage perimeter tubes fit close to the body.



Rear end housing fixture.



Rear frame section main tubes.







Cardboard wheel tub pattern is used to double check proper cage tube placement.

.
 
#14 ·
Thanks guys its always appreciated when your work is noticed.
Yes Derek I am basically a no name chassis builder from a no name town and have been building since 1978. The Fairlane is my personal car and there are things being done to it that time wise would be cost prohibitive for most customers. It is fun to do a project without being on the clock. With that said if anyone has any questions I may be able to help with I would be glad to add my two cents. Thanks again.

Steve
 
#79 ·
Steve
I always wondered what a car you built for yourself would look like. Nice to see a thinker with the skill set to make there thoughts real. Great write up on the process. You are and have been a inspiration to more than you will ever know. Not bad for a "no name chassis builder from a no name town"

Now get back to working on your 10 sec race car:eek:

Brian K.
 
#18 ·
That is some amazing work, I wish I could do all that.
 
#19 ·
Having good equipment is a big plus and then --- practice --- practice --- practice. ----- More than likely the only difference between you guys and me is that I have made bigger piles of scrap metal than you have. Its not uncommon for me to build a part more than once if I am not satisfied with it.

Thanks
Steve
 
#21 ·
Mounting engine and transmission.







TCI 1/4" Adapter mid plate for a 385 series Ford to chevy. They have a tendency to flex in the starter area. At the time I didn't know 1/2" plates were available and if you look close in the starter area there is a 1/4" doubler plate. If this doesn't work the thicker plate well be installed.







Rear trans mount.







Engine limiter



Limiter mounted just above top frame rail ---- one on each side.
 
#24 ·
Adjustable Strut jig.



Adjustable for track width and ride height it holds the spindle to zero camber zero toe and caster set to any angle. It also holds the spindles straight for a centered steering wheel when the rack and pinion --- column and steering wheel are installed.



Upper Strut Mounts



Rack and pinion.



Quick release wheel indicator ---- Notice the hole in center of the horn button area.



When the wheel is locked in place a button fills the hole and is flush across the center.



 
#25 ·
The idea here was to come up with an adjustable pedal assemble. At first the master cylinder was going to be mounted straight forward with an adjustable push rod but there wasn't enough room to mount the master cylinder inside the firewall. Mounting outside the firewall or under the floor would compromise header room and I wanted to stay away from that if I could. So the only thing I could think of was to put the master cylinder 90 degrees to the pedal stroke with a bell crank.


The short pedal on the left is a foot rest and it protects the remote fill master cylinder.



With a Morris cable throttle the assemble is very easy to adjust. Note the series of holes in the mounting bracket that welds to the frame.







The key to this deal is the bell crank with proper angles and ratios.



Mounted in the car and 2 AN-3 bulkhead fittings coming through floor with one braided line going to the master cylinder just ahead of the throttle.
 
#26 ·
That is slick! Are the angles and throw on the belcrank a math problem or trial and error? Or both.
 
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