First day of wiring. Taking a little longer than anticipated since the window and door locks were a last minute undertaking. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the factory system working. Oh well, just going to make it work directly from each component and wire from there to new relays and switches. I think i Have a plan to make it look factory.
So far I have the headlight,front parking, and front turns ran to the dash (not terminated into the relay panel yet). I will be using the Bussman RTMR relay panels for the chassis harness (lights, windows, trunk popper, ect) and an ARC 8000 for engine stuff (fans, water, starter, ignition, fuel, trans cooler fan)
Protective loom even in the door! Got rid of the entire factory harness in the doors, rewires the locks and windows (just cause)
Using the Bussman Fuse and relay blocks to get everything terminated. I probably could have used a couple less connectors but I wanted things to be able to be serviced or added on to easy.
Bussman relay panel:
Turn signal switch repinned for the DT connector. I am not using the wiper side, nor am I am using the high beam wiring, although I left the ability later on.
The backside of the Bussman panel- the Fuse side is bussed possitive, the relay side is bussed on the negative terminal. Really easy to wire up.
Just the harnesses from the Bussman switch side and the Power/output side. I loomed it all and used shrink wrap on the ends.
Headlight harness from the switch to the front of the car. The red and white wire(inline brake switch wire) will be loomed with the wire from the line lock once they are in place.
The whole kit minus the rear of the harness. I probably have 4 days into this easy (i kept redoing it till I was happy with it) Could probably make another in a day using this as a template.
Little video of bench testing it. Finally getting the lights to work off the factory switch.
I'm not sure if you got the windows done or not yet but the below info was a post on my build thread. It is a 1993 but perhaps the connectors & wiring stayted the same.
Since we drag race in the summer time I wanted my power windows to still work. The only problem was I ripped out ALL of the wiring from inside the car. The doors still have their factory wiring in them and I wanted to be able to utilize the drivers side power window switches. I went out to the barn tonight to figure out what connectors did what. There were three connectors that are sticking out of the drivers side door. Below are pictures of what I figured out. Maybe this can help somebody else in the future. Please note I'm color blind so what I am calling the "Green" wire in the picture below may in fact be yellow or something stupid like that. All I know for sure is that it was the lightest colored wire there was so I was using it as a reference point to describe the orientation of the connector itself.
Drivers side door power window connector that goes to the switches on the drivers door.
This 3 wire connector works the power mirror on the drivers side door
Now I'll be able to roll my windows down if I want to... COOL!!
Ok, so to leave well enough alone is not my thing. I have looked through every wiring thread known to man and decided to make a cosmetic change. Along with that change was an order to DelCity for some finishing touches on the panel and the power distribution. Now once the panel is bolted in I can leave it in and keep the battery hooked up so I can open the windows and pop the trunk (putting the windows down makes moving the car easier by myself)
FIrst off some supplies. 4 gauge power wire for the starter and to the panel. Some 6gauge for floating grounds for. Along with some different sized lugs and boots for safety. Picked up a couple pass through for the firewall.
Nice and flexible wires!
Now for some small changes. I used two plugs for the input and outputs of the panel. Well, I was not always happy with them floating around, even when tied to the panel. SO I decided to step up to the Duestche HDP-20 panel mount connectors. Simple change but i think it will be worth it in the end as I will be happier. Even got some boots to make it all pretty. I didn't use Raychem for this stuff as I think I may add nitrous in the near future and wanted to be able to make a simple change to the harness.
Connectors and more connectors. AND boots!!!!
Little close up!
I just think this works better and looks better, and we all know if you can not be fast, you better look good!
SO the goal is to have this permanently mounted this week. Get the engine in and then run the wire and stuff for that!
So a little change of pace from the wiring. I have decided that to get things finalized with wires and such, I need the shortblock, converter and trans in the car. Sooooooooo down to the tiny tiny space I call the basement.
So I already had the shortblock together, but a change in direction (a 150-250 shot of nitrous) I had to pull it apart and open the ring gap a tad)
The machine shop did all the clearances for me when they fixed the crank and honed the block, but I wanted to double check so out came the plastigage.
dead on at .003
So the crank is spinning nice and smooth!!!!!!!
Here are some pics of the parts going into the shortblock:
Oh, are you wondering why I dont have video of the shortblock being spun nice and smooth? Well. Here goes:
Oops......Gotta order a set of damn rings now. (yes a set......one ring pack is 32 bucks, a complete set can be had online on sale for 82 bucks. I will just have some spares)
Ok so back to building the shortblock! So I was able to get a set of rings the same day from my engine guy. Crisis averted.
Got everything together and poof I have a complete rotating assembly installed. Or so I thought! I am new to all this stuff so the gents who give me tech advice and talk me through stuff asked about end play and rod clearances.
So feeler gauges come out and viola- we have the correct rod clearnaces! Sweet! Then crank end play. I was at the shop when they redid my crank and installed it in the block and we had the .006 end play, BUT , I do not have it now. No big deal, pull the rods off and check again. Nope. less than .004. Give it a whack after loosening the main caps. Nope. Same. Fast forward to today, and I have an actual dial indicator, some 1000 grit paper, some glass, and hopefully a lot of patience waiting for amazon same day shipping to show up!
I think after 4 hours I have it right.
Just at 6 at full 110ftlbs
That was not fun at all!
Piston and rod reinstall next! For the 103984 time!
Well once I figure out the ARP stud, canton pan, canton windage tray issues.
Reason I ask is because that front end setup is probably going to knock you right into the Unlimited class unless you choose to run Street Machine Eliminator (which is what I would so).
Not gonna lie, I don't know. They said they will pick the class that
'fits" the car. I am hoping they show mercy. Everything is in stock locations, but yeah, it will be interesting to see where they place it. To be honest, I don't care what class as long as I am able to finish it.
I painted my cage with that hammered paint, love that stuff! Looking good! What gears you running out back, you going to use a Gear Vendors or anything for Drag Week?
Hey Frank nice build.....can't wait to see it when it's done. One question.....on the cam retainer...isn't it installed backwards?? I thought the grooves were supposed to face the cam nose.......For your sake I hope I'm wrong!!! Lol
if I remember correctly- it is grooved on both sides- Lem please chime in!
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