New clutch or auto for puller - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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New clutch or auto for puller

First of all wife is driving truck. She has little experience with manuals.
We just took F350 to its first pull. Wife got 250ft, then friend pulled it and got 280 (both in higher classes with 700900hp trucks). He says clutch was slipping towards end. It's a Bronco Graveyard HD. Truck still moves around fine, just don't think it will handle the power. I think there is some adjustment to linkage (haven't messed with one in 15 or so years). So should I get better/stronger clutch this winter or switch to auto. Did the switch on my F250. Have access to parts, no prob. It's just that an auto that "might" hold up is 3-4 grand. And I'm not familiar with rebuilders besides maybe Monster Transmission.
Truck is F350 in signature, ~625hp, D60/70hd, 4.10, 36" tires, T-18, NP205
Thoughts?

78 F250, 466/C6/205, EFI, Dana 60 4.88 spool, Ford 10.25 4.88 lincoln locker, Custom 4-link rear coil springs, Custom 3-link front coil springs, 39" Boggers on 12" Weld SS's
2004 Blk F350 4x4 RC 6.0 Torqshift
New Project: 79 F350, 521/T18/205, Dana 60 4.10 detroit, dana 70hd 4.10 Lincoln locker, 36" Rockers on 12" Eagles, work in progress . . .dynoed at 628hp and 685ft/lbs torque at 5000rpms
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 02:42 PM
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I don't know anything about pulling, but 3-4K sounds pretty steep for a built C6. Mine should handle 700+ but that's in a drag car. I built it myself and am into it about $1200 and then it'll be about $4-500 for a converter. That's with mostly stock parts.

What are other guys running in their Fords? Safety requirements? (Assuming there are other Fords where y'all pull.)

-Dave

1983 F-250 4x4- TBI 472, NP435, twin stick NP205, D60 front/10.25 rear, 37s
1983 Mercury Capri 466/C6- Getting closer
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 03:43 PM
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If you are serious about pulling with this truck and are making some power, stay with a manual trans and get a dual disk slipper clutch and a steel fly wheel. DO NOT USE A STOCK FLYWHEEL!!!!!!!!!!! I pulled for quite a few years so feel free to pm me if you want and I'll try to answer any questions you might have.

Alan
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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The motor makes about 625hp and the flywheel is a "40lb nhra" unit. Not super serious about pulling, but would like to pull a couple times a year. It's a street driven truck so I'd like to keep pedal feel somewhat low. Most street classes don't allow slipper clutches, but I've been looking at one that's dual disk and rated for 1000hp.

78 F250, 466/C6/205, EFI, Dana 60 4.88 spool, Ford 10.25 4.88 lincoln locker, Custom 4-link rear coil springs, Custom 3-link front coil springs, 39" Boggers on 12" Weld SS's
2004 Blk F350 4x4 RC 6.0 Torqshift
New Project: 79 F350, 521/T18/205, Dana 60 4.10 detroit, dana 70hd 4.10 Lincoln locker, 36" Rockers on 12" Eagles, work in progress . . .dynoed at 628hp and 685ft/lbs torque at 5000rpms
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loganwildman View Post
If you are serious about pulling with this truck and are making some power, stay with a manual trans and get a dual disk slipper clutch and a steel fly wheel. DO NOT USE A STOCK FLYWHEEL!!!!!!!!!!! I pulled for quite a few years so feel free to pm me if you want and I'll try to answer any questions you might have.
I'd be curious to know what you have to say. Pulling isn't popular around here so I don't know anyone who does it.

Does the T-18/T19/NP435 actually hold up? Their max torque ratings don't seem so high but if there isn't much in the means of shock loading I could see how they would survive.

-Dave

1983 F-250 4x4- TBI 472, NP435, twin stick NP205, D60 front/10.25 rear, 37s
1983 Mercury Capri 466/C6- Getting closer
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 06:46 PM
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Those 4 speeds should definitely be able to take it, just need a good clutch like you already know. If you already have the manual and like it, I probably wouldn't switch to an auto just for the sake of pulling. However, I have seen some good running trucks running autos. Not sure what all goes into a c6 for pulling, but I intend to find out because I plan on doing the same with mine with a c6. The trucks with the built up auto seem to have an easier time getting the sled moving without the boucing. They may not get as much power to the ground as a 4sp but from what I've seen, the autos are able to get on the throttle quicker with less bouncing and breakage. I've never pulled with an auto, but a couple of times with a 4 sp and hated having to slip the clutch that much
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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I've only pulled with an auto too, but when I was building truck I wanted to get as much power to the ground as possible. I hate clutch slip as well, but I'm gonna try it a little longer. I think I'll put the 1000hp clutch in and see how it does.

78 F250, 466/C6/205, EFI, Dana 60 4.88 spool, Ford 10.25 4.88 lincoln locker, Custom 4-link rear coil springs, Custom 3-link front coil springs, 39" Boggers on 12" Weld SS's
2004 Blk F350 4x4 RC 6.0 Torqshift
New Project: 79 F350, 521/T18/205, Dana 60 4.10 detroit, dana 70hd 4.10 Lincoln locker, 36" Rockers on 12" Eagles, work in progress . . .dynoed at 628hp and 685ft/lbs torque at 5000rpms
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody heard of or used a McLeod RXT Street twin clutch such as Summit pn 6921-03? Good or bad? I know there is one specifically for truck pulling, but I can't see spending $2000 on something to try.

78 F250, 466/C6/205, EFI, Dana 60 4.88 spool, Ford 10.25 4.88 lincoln locker, Custom 4-link rear coil springs, Custom 3-link front coil springs, 39" Boggers on 12" Weld SS's
2004 Blk F350 4x4 RC 6.0 Torqshift
New Project: 79 F350, 521/T18/205, Dana 60 4.10 detroit, dana 70hd 4.10 Lincoln locker, 36" Rockers on 12" Eagles, work in progress . . .dynoed at 628hp and 685ft/lbs torque at 5000rpms
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:17 PM
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I love this site and don't mean to try and take away from it, but it seems like it's not nearly as active as it used to be. If your on Facebook, ask to join the group 385 big block power. There's a few truck pull guys on there that may have some input for you. There's pullers here also but haven't seen them post much lately
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 10:08 PM
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I run a 460 t18 205 combo. With a travs 4x4 clutch. Do not get a dedicated pulling clutch for the street you will hate driving it. I broke 2 input shafts last year acting stupid on the street with mine. It's a mom spring hub disc. That dual disc mccloud seen seem like a good light pull pull use one. The dual disc from American powertrain is also suppose to be a great shift in clutch. If you are serious about pulling then a pulling dual disc slipper is the only thing that will take it I promise
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 03:16 PM
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A dual disc slipper is the best way to go. If you go with an auto, then you will need a high stall converter to get the motor up on the cam, and you will need a trans built to handle the power you are making. Also, by the time you pay for a built auto and a high stall converter, you can have a dual disk slipper clutch, so better spend once and get what you need then to spend twice (unless you have extra $$ laying around). Auto's tend to come out softer and that tends to mask suspension/chassis setup issues. A manual is the best way to go as it lets you come out harder, but it WILL find the weak spots in the drive line.
Here is my truck in 2006 https://youtu.be/rgeLdSPYFtk and again in 2007 https://youtu.be/fY7UIA4JBiM in these videos it is an auto.

In this video taken in 2008, I upped the power a bit and went to a clutch https://youtu.be/XNcDp5ZDVIU

If you watch and listen in the 2006 and 2007 videos you can see and hear a little rpm fluctuation off the starting line. That is a bounce issue on the frontend. With the auto, it wasn't an issue to drive through it. In the Columbus video, with the clutch, I could come out harder, but now the suspension issue became a real factor and it took me about a year to solve it making small changes each time. But as you can see in 2009 it was worth it as I upped the HP again and could start making solid passes. https://youtu.be/eqP9_Q2Hi08

And finally here is the truck in 2011 before I sold it. https://youtu.be/s6-YZhGJczg As you can see I could come out hard and never lift. Gearing, go tall in the axles as it lessens the load on the drive line. That said, you need ground speed, so you need to gear to get the highest wheel speed you can while keeping the motor in the cam's happy range.

Alan
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1995 F150 514 powered
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-17-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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She hit the rev-limiter at like 125ft and she was in the class with 700-900 hp trucks. I don't know if the sled was light or the clutch was slipping or what. Truck has 4.10's and 36's so ground speed should be fine. I didn't go lower in the axles so the motor would have to work harder instead of spinning to the moon. I'm gonna put another clutch in and see if it holds.

78 F250, 466/C6/205, EFI, Dana 60 4.88 spool, Ford 10.25 4.88 lincoln locker, Custom 4-link rear coil springs, Custom 3-link front coil springs, 39" Boggers on 12" Weld SS's
2004 Blk F350 4x4 RC 6.0 Torqshift
New Project: 79 F350, 521/T18/205, Dana 60 4.10 detroit, dana 70hd 4.10 Lincoln locker, 36" Rockers on 12" Eagles, work in progress . . .dynoed at 628hp and 685ft/lbs torque at 5000rpms
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