My New Engine Build - A460 Block - 534

http://www.429-460.com/proven-builds-f4/a460-block-534ci-engine-build-thread-t634.htm

Damon,

Let's make the crank fit period. If that means grinding on it, then do so. I've had to do this before myself, not only with SVO A-460 blocks, but also with Mopars Hemi "Mega Block". Go to a welders shop and borrow a heavy duty 7" side grinder and stand the block up and go in there and get you some! Find the offending main web or webs and thin it.
Wear safety goggles and gloves!

Hope this helps,

go in there and get you some!

I have a grinder. Next chance I get I'll go in and gets some more :lol:

I used a hand held belt sander and small die grinder to deburr a lot of the casting lines inside and out. Not a WHOLE lot but enough to cover the floor :wink:

Thanks Charlie.

One more note. Is it common to restrict oil to the cam bearings from the crank side? My D1VE block has restrictors in each hole leading to the cam from the crank.

Disregard, with the utmost respect, what Mr. Evans has just said......

There is no replacement for displacement!!!!!!!!!!!

But really. I'd have to agree with Charlie on this one. Besides once you go to a stroker, you'll want to maximize the effort which will mean getting different heads, etc... Make the crank fit and go beat on that combo for awhile.


Did I read that right, you're using a 6.8 rod with that 3.85 crank. I thought the 3.85 uses a 6.6 rod? Are you using a special piston, or am I just lost....

Can't help ya much, just keep in mind most people never encounter a situation where their crank won't fit....lol.... enjoy it while you can.

Oh, I also have block envy. That A460 is a serious hunk of iron. Nice!

Greg

Do not grind on the main bulkheads untill you get THE crank you are going to use . We had a China forging that would not turn in an A-460 block but the Scat 9000 crank would . The Scat unit was .017" wider than the forging at the main journal .

na

Damon,

It's a set-up shift or machining shift that causes this problem. In order to make the main webs a little stronger, they are by design a little thicker than production blocks. Problem is, if the machining is biased one way or the other, front to rear, then the crankshaft doesn't fit. Your block looks pretty well centered. However, if you study it, I think you'll see greater machining on the front side of the webs, than the rear side of the webs. You will probally need to go in there and thin the front side of the webs just a little more. The dimension between #2 web to #3 web should be the same as the dimension between #3 web and #4 web. I have forgotten what that number is, but your problem area is probally between those webs. When you get done, it is vital that you have thrust clearance front to rear, so make sure #3 main bearings and cap give you some movement. Make sure that the radius of your crank is not binding or being held up, on #2 or #4 main webs.

I'm saying let's make the stock crank fit now, because the aftermarket cranks generally have a bigger radius in the fillet. Then if you want to go with a stroker later on that's fine. IF you need to bring the block down here and let us (mainly Jet Boat Bob) tend to it you're welcome to.

EDIT, Okay, do what Lem said. I forgot about the China forging being off.

Hope this helps,

na

The radius is not what may touch the bulkheads....it is the machined vertical area above radius . The width between these machined surfaces controls if a crank will go in a wide web block .
Can the 2 and 4 bulkheads be off a hair? Sure that can happen....my point is that do not assume that . Case in point being the Scat cast deal working and the China forging not working . I ask Brian Adams to tell the Scat guys not to reinvent the wheel when they finish their forgings.....do them like the cast 9000 stuff . When you may have about .005" end play at the flange of the thrust bearing , .017" between the machined "cheeks" on #2 and #4 of a crankshaft main is a big deal .

Damon , I am speaking of the stroker cranks......that stock counter wt crank is another deal.....a lot more "swing" at the counter wts .

na

PURTY!

/me is also has block envy.... :D

Brian

Lem, didn't you have to throw my block up on the mill and do the same thing for my billet crank :?:

By the way Damon your block is a much better looking casting than mine was. Mine was really rough before I started grinding on it.
I also talked to the guys at LSM Systems Engineering and they say they can remove 35 lbs. from a A460 block. Here's a link to their web in case you wanted to check it out. http://www.lsmeng.com/Block-Lightening.html

Lem, didn't you have to throw my block up on the mill and do the same thing for my billet crank :?:

By the way Damon your block is a much better looking casting than mine was. Mine was really rough before I started grinding on it.
I also talked to the guys at LSM Systems Engineering and they say they can remove 35 lbs. from a A460 block. Here's a link to their web in case you wanted to check it out. http://www.lsmeng.com/Block-Lightening.html
Sure did........in hindsight I wish we had measured the width of the journals compared to the 9000 cast deal . The block in my 605" is an old batch block , like yours , and the Bryant forging dropped right in . Was it the crank or the block? I don't know but going forward i will not assume it's the block always and try to come up with a cheek to cheek dimension that would be most likely to fit in a correct wide web block . Mfrs of cranks have diff specs.....like Scat's stuff at the journals are a little over the min. dia. and Bryants will be under the min . Maybe the crank companies will respond to feed back like the piston people do relative dome foot print etc.
The newer blocks , from the new foundry , are very much prettier than the old batches like you and I have in our engines .

Damon, you are right about having more cubic inches than your A429 heads can ralistically feed. I run the same heads & that is why I hve never gone larger than 557. I discussed this with David & Ron Sykes, who did a phenominal job with my heads, & they really felt that the larger piston would just be extra weight & that I needed more flow to take advantage of the extra cubes(can we say Hemi? :lol: ). If you do go the stroker crank route, why not go ahead & get a 4.5" stroke? Then you can get more cubes as your cylinder head allowance lets you upgrade. Just my opinion but I would max out the stroke. :D

I would not cut/grind any on the block untill you have the crank you are going to use. I have a new batch A460 block and my Scat 9000 crank fell right in with no clearance issues. :wink:

now ya got me curious
I have one of these new blocks and i'll experiment with different cranks to see what fits & what doesn't.
I have a few different manufacturers cranks - will let ya know results.

na

Damon,
I have a 4.500 Eagle crank you can try . When Charlie calls me to pick up my street heads, we could meet there. If you want I could let you have a little of what Charlie and I got out in the parking lot under the lights in Bowling Green......
:wink:


Blake

na

Damon,
When Carlie gets through with them, I havn't talked to him since Bowling green, so I don,t know. Why don't you run a 4.440 bore with the 4.5 crank , you will just build torque at a lower rpm. The bigger bore would unshroud the valves a little more also. With what your heads flow, and your cam size, I think you would still shift above 6500...... I run cast heads on my 514 that are not max effort and you know what it runs....... I shift at 6500.


Blake

na

damon cmon you know you want to stroke it. lmao!
john

na

A460 block looks SHWEET! 8) How much HP do you want to make? Heads that flow 350cfm on the intake should be able to support about 720 HP if everything else is optimal. What do your A429 heads flow? Hmmm...I bet this ain't gonna be a pump gas motor??? :?

na

"I could let you have a little of what Charlie and I got out in the parking lot under the lights in Bowling Green......"
? Just what was that? I sure hope it dosn't require penicillin. :roll:

Not before but maybe after! :shock: Does penicillin come in different octane ratings? :P

Damon, are you going with the forged scat or cast? Might want to look into a forged or billet unit in case you want to go past the 850hp mark later on down the road after Charlie ports you those 450+cfm heads and/or a dab of funny gas! :shock:

na

Damon, If your heads are flowing 350+cfm, I think you can handle 557 ci. My A429's flow 370 intake & 270 exhaust @ .800 & my engine is making approx. 850 HP. Now my exhaust ports I would say are very similar to the BT's with the raised Chevy port. Only thing is the Sykes Brothers did them before BT offered the raised square port. Also what size headers can you get in your engine compartment? I am running a step header, 2" to 2.25" w/ 4" Borla collector muffler. On my old car they were 2" to 2.125" but I had to step up to be able to get the Borla with 4" opening.

aa

Why did you decide to go with an A460 block instead of a IDT block?

Will both of these block have to have the same clearance work done to them?

Or, did you just get a good deal on a A460 and availability?


I'm not trying to be an arse, I'd be happy with either of them. Just wondering your reasons behind your choice. Sorry, if you had allready stated why.

aa

Why did you decide to go with an A460 block instead of a IDT block?

Will both of these block have to have the same clearance work done to them?

Or, did you just get a good deal on a A460 and availability?


I'm not trying to be an arse, I'd be happy with either of them. Just wondering your reasons behind your choice. Sorry, if you had allready stated why.
The D9s/A-460/IDT blocks have deeper cylinders than the C8/C9/D1 etc . The early model production cranks were internaly balanced and have big dia. counter wts. The D9 and the race blocks need an aftermarket or externaly balanced production crank that have the smaller dia. counter wts .

Why did you decide to go with an A460 block instead of a IDT block?

Will both of these block have to have the same clearance work done to them?

Or, did you just get a good deal on a A460 and availability?


I'm not trying to be an arse, I'd be happy with either of them. Just wondering your reasons behind your choice. Sorry, if you had allready stated why.
The D9s/A-460/IDT blocks have deeper cylinders than the C8/C9/D1 etc . The early model production cranks were internaly balanced and have big dia. counter wts. The D9 and the race blocks need an aftermarket or externaly balanced production crank that have the smaller dia. counter wts .

Ok, so the A460 block has the same amount of room as the IDT blocks do. I had noticed in the past people talking about having to do some clearance work on the A460 block and hadn't really read anything about the IDT blocks. Thanks! I was just wondering!

When Damon gets the correct style crank he will be able to tell if he has any other issues . He put an edit in one of the post that his stock crank lacked .250" or more setting in the mains.......that's the big dia. counter wt issue at work :wink:

aa

Why did you decide to go with an A460 block instead of a IDT block?

Will both of these block have to have the same clearance work done to them?

Or, did you just get a good deal on a A460 and availability?


I'm not trying to be an arse, I'd be happy with either of them. Just wondering your reasons behind your choice. Sorry, if you had allready stated why.
The D9s/A-460/IDT blocks have deeper cylinders than the C8/C9/D1 etc . The early model production cranks were internaly balanced and have big dia. counter wts. The D9 and the race blocks need an aftermarket or externaly balanced production crank that have the smaller dia. counter wts .

Hey Guys,

What Lem said is correct. Add to that list of long cylinder wall blocks, the A-96 alum. block and the old A-600 race block. The bottom line is an early stock production crank, with a big radius (or diameter )counterweights, is not going to fit in a deep cylinder wall block.

I was barking up the wrong tree in Damon's case, because I didn't fully understand the problem. I was going off on a tangent that I have seen before with some Mopar Hemi "X" blocks, and Mega blocks, and also some A-460 blocks of things not fitting as they should, because of the radius of the fillet of the aftermarket crank, binding against #2 or #4 main webs and not allowing the proper thrust clearance on #3. I've also seen the counterweights be too thick and wind up rubbing against the main webs up in the crankcase.

Hope this helps,

Why did you decide to go with an A460 block instead of a IDT block?

Will both of these block have to have the same clearance work done to them?

Or, did you just get a good deal on a A460 and availability?


I'm not trying to be an arse, I'd be happy with either of them. Just wondering your reasons behind your choice. Sorry, if you had allready stated why.
The D9s/A-460/IDT blocks have deeper cylinders than the C8/C9/D1 etc . The early model production cranks were internaly balanced and have big dia. counter wts. The D9 and the race blocks need an aftermarket or externaly balanced production crank that have the smaller dia. counter wts .

Hey Guys,

What Lem said is correct. Add to that list of long cylinder wall blocks, the A-96 alum. block and the old A-600 race block. The bottom line is an early stock production crank, with a big radius (or diameter )counterweights, is not going to fit in a deep cylinder wall block.

I was barking up the wrong tree in Damon's case, because I didn't fully understand the problem. I was going off on a tangent that I have seen before with some Mopar Hemi "X" blocks, and Mega blocks, and also some A-460 blocks of things not fitting as they should, because of the radius of the fillet of the aftermarket crank, binding against #2 or #4 main webs and not allowing the proper thrust clearance on #3. I've also seen the counterweights be too thick and wind up rubbing against the main webs up in the crankcase.

Hope this helps,

Thanks your post was what made me ask the question. (Thrust clearance) I knew that you couldn't put a production internal balanced crank into a external balanced block. But this thrust clearance was news to me. Started to sound like a big headache!

aa

Wow :!: Good news . I got my first hands on with the new Scat forging this afternoon . It aint no Bryant but does not need a hair cut and a shave either and does not cost $1,850 .
In an earlier post , in this thread , there was referance made to the no name China forging not fitting in an A-460 block but a Scat 9000 cast crank would . Well , the Scat forging is wider at the 2 and 4 journals than the 9000 cast unit.......better yet . It seems that Scat has finished a race grade crank to fit a race grade block :D Having put a mic on the journals I can tell you that the Scat forging's journals are near the min. diameter ....unlike the no name China deals that were so fat that one may have assumed they had been to a buffet with Charlie :P .
They may not be a high end crank but a this point they look like bargain , IMO .

aa

Da' problem with that billet crank that Eddie has, is that you don't have any safety margin. In other words if you booger it up and have to turn the mains,,,,,, are there any .040" undersize bearings out there? Last time I checked, (long time ago) there weren't. Likewise if the rods are .020" under already,,,,,,,,,,,,,,how many "rebuilds" do you have for a safety margin?

I'd vote for one of the new Scat forgings in your case.

aa

aa

And I would like to thank JB Bob, Charlie and Lem, without whom that bottom end would not be in existance! 8) Also, thanks to Livermore Dave for the great shipping!

It sure must be nice to have all this nice stuff.......I'm quitting and selling all my stuff and taking up curling or basket weaving.......D

Charlie,

I agree, that's why I think I'll pass. New Scat Forged crank is $899 and the 9000 series crank is $399 on Brians Site (AD Performance).

Where did you see this advertised?

Charlie,

I agree, that's why I think I'll pass. New Scat Forged crank is $899 and the 9000 series crank is $399 on Brians Site (AD Performance).

Where did you see this advertised?


There are a few Scat cranks here...

http://www.keithcraft.com/vp500/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=70&cat=Scat+Crankshafts

Charlie,

I agree, that's why I think I'll pass. New Scat Forged crank is $899 and the 9000 series crank is $399 on Brians Site (AD Performance).

Where did you see this advertised?


There are a few Scat cranks here...

http://www.keithcraft.com/vp500/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=70&cat=Scat+Crankshafts


thanks Cody, those are the same ones Brian has. I was wondering if the new Forged units were on the shelf somewhere. If I am not badly Mistaken mine is under the microscope in Detroit @ A. Brown's shop.

aa

aa

"0" deck it !! Compression and quench is power !!!

No disrespect intended, but I would not zero deck it. More guys get them selves in trouble trying to do this than you know. Lem and I like to see the piston in the hole, in the single digits, meaning .005" - .008" in that range so to speak. Call it safety margin for piston rock over at TDC. I've had several sets of used heads come in here where the guy's pistons are smacking the head and leaving an imprint. When I call them up and tell them that their pistons were hitting the heads, many of them are unaware of it.

I believe what happens is that on the first build, maybe the pistons didn't hit the heads. Then when it was time for a hone job and new rings, the piston to wall clearance naturally increase just a thou or so, and that gives the piston more room to "rock over" at TDC when the thrust side changes. If it is bad enough, then it pinches the top ring land groove and you start having a very sick engine.

Hope this helps,

aa

aj

just talked to steve jr at LSM $1900 plus shipping WOW WOW

just talked to steve jr at LSM $1900 plus shipping WOW WOW

and this is for?

just talked to steve jr at LSM $1900 plus shipping WOW WOW

and this is for?

I'm assuming the CNC block lightening program....

yes- sorry

aa

To prevent piston contact at TDC with .000 deck you can angle mill the piston slightly and still have a tight quench and no contact with the head.

aa

3.193"-3.1922" Just go ahead and take it to the high side ,IMO .

aa

Hey Damon........your going to get yours running before I do!.......Thats gonna upset me....maybe I just need to work harder......sounds good....i see you couldnt resist the urge to go big......good luck......D

aa

Damon, glad to see you went with the 4.5" stroke. If you are going to spend the money, go ahead & put the big arm in. A good cam for your combination would be the Lunati 51606"ROLLER, Excellent for 500 CID or larger motor with Cobra Jet heads running in Super Gas, Super Comp or bracket with A/T and 5500 converter." Only reason I changed was to try something new after the lifter failure . I had good luck with it. 8.54@160 won't to shabby. Glad that your parts are selling !! :D

Damon ,
Don't get too greedy....please consider the drivetrain and traction available before you decide on the final package .

aa

8) .....sounds like you are ready to go .

aa

Show off :P

aa

No kiddin' Lem...he is starting to get a little big for his britches huh?

Damon, you need to update your signature to read "557 in the works". :wink: Good luck with the build, and I look forward to reading about your progress. That launch pic is awesome! 8)

aa

aa

Alittle off topic, how do you get your cammera to take such good close-ups? Mine gets blurry.

aa

Fuji. Wal-mart special, thanks for the info, I'll have to look.

Ok, back on topic. I take it that your are going to take some weight out of the older pistons to make the weigh the same? What about the weight differance in the wrist pins? Is it close enough or what?

So...where was the piston at T.D.C ? In , out or zero ?

Damon, I just sent you a PM. Not sure if it went through. Let me know if you got it. Man your pistons look like my old BRC flat tops. :D

I was finishing up a Scat 4.500 custom and before I ground the mains I though "I better see if this will drop in to an A460 block "..... measuring the cheeks above the radius comfirm that they did in fact make this one wider than the casting.. I used to push the radiuses back to the counterweight just for that reason .........

So...where was the piston at T.D.C ? In , out or zero ?
bump

aa

aa

.0055"-.006" ,IMO .
Your mics may be better than you think.....when you change to studs it does change the game some .

aa

aa

It will have to be to stay together with your lead foot......looks like you are moving along great with it.......working on mine to get it ready to take in to the shop after the Thanksgiving holidays.....good luck and Happy Thankgiving..............D

aa

I thought about that but i dont want to show all my speed secrets to everybody.......LOL....I need a photobucket account so i can post my pics.......laters...D

aa

bump

aa

WOW! He sure has a nice and clean, big roomy shop! Most of the machine shops I've been in are a maze of machines and parts stacked on top of each other where it is hard to even walk around!

aa

Stopped by SAM (Smith Automotive Machine) this morning....
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f75/Phantasea466/Smith%20Automotive%20Machine%20Shop/SmithAutomitiveMachine1.jpg

I bet you stopped to ride the purrrty pink pedal car... ;)

aa

aa

I may be talking old topics here, but using the 6.8 rods on the stock crank is an old drag racing trick for the Ford guys with "limited" exhaust ports. The engineering principals of this is, slower piston speeds at the end of the stroke and faster speeds in the middle (when the valves are open the most). It seems to help with cylinder filling and can be good for a few more HP. also gives less side loading on the piston (less friction).

Back in the day (1986 time frame), I ran long rods in a pro gas t-bird with a 466. 8.40's and 9200 RPM on a 2 bolt main cast crank iron head engine.

Now good parts are finally available for us old die-hard Ford guys. Even if they do cost more than the brand X parts.

aa

I'm waiting for mine too !!! 8) The excitement is killing me !!! :D Hows you build going otherwise?

aa

Cool !!! How fast you shooting to go?

aa

its alway nice to have more than you need !! :lol:

He told me he expected it to be one tenth quicker than mine :lol:





Blake

Detune :shock: :? What ae you talking about??? No drag racer detunes!! I bet you a steak dinner at the BBF Nationals that once you get that baby up & running, you are going to say the hell with slowing down & just let this baby eat!!!!!! :lol:
Damon, I set my 98 up originally with a complete throttle stop set up with the intentions of running TS divisionally & SR at national events. After I drove the car, I had no desire to slow the car down & throttle stop race. All the time & money I spent to go fast. Plus the hard work the Sykes Brothers put into my heads & intake, not to mention all of their help & brain power, I just couldn't see slowing it down.

So I will say when your car runs low-mid 9's, you will not be physically able to make yourself slow down. So go ahead & get your license & proper safety gear & go kick some Chevy a** !!! :lol:

go get a K & R pro cube and be done with it. It will do everything for ya, stage, leave, shift, all ya gotta do is turn the button loose at the right time and drive the stripe. :wink:

aa

Sounds like there will be at least one red Mustang at the BBF Nationals.... Too bad it won't be mine.........


Get that thing assembled and track tested before the BBF meet. I want to see it run deeeeep in the 9's............

aa

Damon,

What are you doing with a sbc part? no wonder the tool didn't work.

Blake

aa

John,

You will be racing your Truck instead :wink:
.


Yes, I will be. I'll spot ya 2-3 PLUS the jump..............

Damon,I meant to ask you if you had a slide hammer. I had to make one for myself. I modified a piece of my dowel pin puller set up. Drilled it & tapped it for a 6" L 5/16" stud that I had & use the slide handle from the kit. Works like a champ. No SBC parts here buddy!!! :lol:

aa

Damon, you got that right!!! Those bad boys are tight!!! :D Also be sure to check your bearings good!!!!

Ok,, why do you need a slide hammer to remove the main caps?

They are machined to fit very tight. They have dual dowel pins to locate them & no notches to pry them up. Every cap has a 5/16" tapped hole drilled in the center of them. The Ford Motorsports instruction sheet even tells you to use a slide hammer. So If you get an A460 block, make sure you have a slide hammer... :lol:

Cool!
This was the first time I had read anything about this!

not to menton those caps look like they weigh about 10 lbs a piece :shock: one thing they did make these things beefy.


Randy

aa

I'm just a little curious as to why its a 4.31 stroke crank. Is that a custom unit? Thanks

Damons Build is better documented than most world events !!! :lol:

I think hes going to write a kids picture book Entitle "The 460 Ford, Your Friend and Mine"........ :lol:

aa

aa

Yes that is one slick looking crank you got there and the block too, the only problem i have with people posting all the pictures of their nice parts is that it makes me want to buy them too.

Damon would you wanna take this to the swap meet at the BBF nationals and sell it for half the price what it costs? :lol:

Damon always has to be just a little bigger and better than everyone else :lol:

His bore size is probably 4.391 or 4.441 :P

aa

aa

Looks Great !!

aa

Great job Damon. 8) Did you have your wife dress up like a nurse and sponge the forehead while you were grinding? That would have made for a great pic. :lol:

aa

Damon I still can't believe they keep sending all my parts to your place, You have my address rebox them and get them right out to me please :lol: J/K

Looks great can't wait to see it run in April working my buns off trying to get mine all done. heads go on this weekend and engine back in hopefully sunday.



Randy

aa

Ok I'll bite. What's the secret project? :? :lol:

Damon, glad to hear you are making some headway on your motor. I got back out to the shop Sunday afternoon & got the valve train installed & adjusted. Didn't have time to do my "drainback test" yet. I will try & get that done Saturday & get the intake on. Hopefully get the motor back in the car. Will have to wait & see what the wife has planned for me.. :lol:

As matter of fact, all the tracks around here are opening up for T&T this Saturday. :D

If you ever get a chance to use the electric ring filer like childs and albert makes, do it! Even if you just borrow one, they are fast and if you have to take a bunch off each ring, it is real repeatable with the built in dial indicator. Proform makes one for half the price, but from what I've heard they are worth about that much. It can make ring filing and fitting a couple hour job instead of an all day job.

aa

aa

OK Damon, now you have to PM me. The suspense is killing me!!!

Damon,

You know by the time you get that motor done, it's going to be FAR too pretty to put in that old rickety bucket of bolts you call a car. ;)
You should find a better looking car for it... :D

aa

Makin progress I see......D

Damon,

I thought we were fairly tight, opened my book for you to read, now I here your keeping secrets :o , I think I will just turn the ups truck around and have him bring the goodies back,



BBB

aa

Looks purdy Damon. 8) I'm not much for the show and shine either, so keep it in the bucket of bolts. My Fairlane looks good in pictures, but it is sporting a 7 year old Maaco paint job with some cancer coming back. :oops: The engine/drivetrain and getting out there and driving it, is where it's at. :wink:

aa

aa

Your movin' right alone !! I see the Massive Engine Stand is taking the strain of the extra weight of that A460 block !! :lol:

aa

Damon,

Looks great!...I coudn't agree more on the tapered ring compressors...or those spiral locks :x :lol:

Rick S.

Looking sweet Damon 8)

Looking sweet Damon 8)
He sure does have a purr-d enjine don't he :lol:

looks good,wont be long now!
john

Looks good Damon !!! you aint too far behind me. Hope to get motor/trans in Saturday. Mabe try to make some noise if the weather holds out. :D

I see someone loved their local SnapOn man once upon a time..... ;)

Looks good Damon.

BTW, my bucket looks worse then yours. :)

Brian

aa

Your movin' right alone !! I see the Massive Engine Stand is taking the strain of the extra weight of that A460 block !! :lol:

you BETCHA!


Now that I have this strong heavy duty block, crank, rods and pistons: I need a nitrous kit to go on top of it. You wouldn't happen to have one available would ya? :lol:

I might just have what your lookin' for !! :lol:

aa

Very nice damon ,I am getting very excited about starting my build! 8)

Cool !! wish I could take off work & work on my hot rod :D But unfortunately I ot to go back to the boat factory :( I just got to fabricate some new trans lines & I am ready to fire this beast up. Hope the weather will be decent this weekend. It was 70 last Saturday!!! Good luck tomorrow Damon. Remember the big race is coming up fast!!! Just hope neither one of us has any major bugs to work out. I know your "race car time" is at a minimum like myself. :D

Very nice Engine Damon,Can't wait to start mine. I'm gathering up the pieces,I need a TrickFlo A single Four Intake and I'll have all of the top end. Double check that windage tray if you have to pull the pan for any reason. My welds cracked and the screen started braking apart and tiny little pieces of screen got up inside the engine.Good Luck Damon. Rick

Damon it sure is looking good! I wanted to thank you for posting your build-up in "chapters" so to speak. It's really good to see.

Pullin Bret Powell of PFC Engines is building a comprable engine for the boat now also. Wish it wasn't so far away, and I had more free time.
I'd love to go watch and learn and be able to see mine go together.

Your thread has really been a help to me getting through the wait!!!

Ken F

Dear Dirty SOB's,

After careful consideration and reading of this thread I placed my order with Lem today and ordered an A460 block. I hope you're all happy with yourselves. My credit card company thanks you also.

Sincerely,
Ivan

Seriously though, this thread has got me jacked to hurry up and get my engine built. I can't wait to see the new block. Thanks for posting the details on your build. :)

Dear Dirty SOB's.........................


You got that much right!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good to see it finishing up Damon. I'm still far away from having mine running. I've cut out most of the cage already this past weekend. Still need to cut out the hoop and rear bars and remove the tin. I was going to recage it myself but I think I'll bring it to a guy around the corner from me (literally, he lives about a 1/2 mile away).

He's pretty meticulous and I think he'll do the cage the way I want. just need to get the chassis stripped down and let him come take a look. Once the cage is done it'll be assembly time. All I really need is a shifter, d/shaft, a Dominator and some Kaase P51's........... All the rest is my time to put it all together.

I'll see you guys at the BBF Nats.......... I'll be the one watching....

Dear Dirty SOB's,

After careful consideration and reading of this thread I placed my order with Lem today and ordered an A460 block. I hope you're all happy with yourselves. My credit card company thanks you also.

Sincerely,
Ivan

Seriously though, this thread has got me jacked to hurry up and get my engine built. I can't wait to see the new block. Thanks for posting the details on your build. :)

I know the feeling. I did the same thing after following this thread for months and ordered a block from Lem a few weeks back.

DJ

Damon,

Looking good!...I too had to 'clearance' my Canton front sump pan to clear those big caps :shock: :D

Rick S.

Lookin good Damon.....D

Damon,

Glad to see your new engine is coming along so good. Thanks for the updates and pics. Its nice to see the progress. I wish I had taken more of mine when it was coming together.

Looks purty powerful there Damon......how many lengths ya gonna give me and my small motored, big ole Mach 1?......If I ever get it running that is..................... :wink:

aa

aa

Sure is pretty. I hope my engine grows up to look like that some day.

Good job :D


Kerry

Man those look very similar to some pics posted a couple of weeks ago. Could that be my motors long lost KY cousin.. :lol:

Damon, very nice dude :D

bling, bling :D looks good!

Smokin!.....looking better all the time...D

aa

Damon,

Just a take a rag with some lacquer thinner on it and wipe off those numbers on the roof of the exhaust ports. That was your installed height before shimming. All in all, everything is looking good! :D

Later,

aa

B.S. !!! :evil: Boy! Ya' danged smart mouth has got you into trouble! Now I'm going to whip your a$$ for sure! :twisted:

Just wait,

aa

Lol Damon......Charlie called you boy.....haha....D

aa

Hey Damon this thread keeps on getting better all the time, good job on the Engine.

Did you have the Professor Evans do the heads for you?

Hey Damon this thread keeps on getting better all the time, good job on the Engine.

Did you have the Professor Evans do the heads for you?

Actually, Scott Vincent (aka Pop-Eye) and I, did his heads and intake manifold, if my memory serves me. Scott is another one of my head porters. I recognized my writing where I was checking his installed height and I should have wiped off the numbers. So, I simply made a suggestion and "the boy" goes and starts smarting off.

However, I can't get on him too hard, because he is doing a valuable service helping Lem, Phillip and I put on this "family reunion" of big block Fords that we're having in April. Keep up the good work Damon!

Later,

Does it run yet???? 8) :lol: :P

Does it run yet???? 8) :lol: :P


Of course it doesn't!!!!!! :D

aa

aa

damn.


That's just tough as nails

aa

aa

Damon, I swear we must be distant cousins because you have about the same kind of luck I have. Just good that you caught it now. ALot easier to fix at this point. Good luck & I am keeping my fingers & toes crossed for you & me. Yall just don't know how bad I want to bring the car down for the BBF Nationals. :D

aa

Dumb question but here goes.... Can't you just throw a stock block plate in there? You might need to trim away the starter hole to get the starter depth correct, but it'd be easier than milling the converter pad....

Justa thought. You said you only need about another .100 right? Maybe just putting a block plate in ther ewill be an easy fix. and won't "marry" that converter to that flexplate.....

aa

If need be I still have a cardboard template of someone's mid plate [COUGH COUGH].

I think the extra block plate is the way to go. What flexplate are you running.

How is the ring gear in relation to the crank flange on the flexnew plate you have versus the Scat flexplate you have? What's the brand of the new flexplate?

aa

OK, so the reduced distance you have now is because of the new flexplate being perfectly flat where as the Scat/stock is recessed slightly down to the converter mounting pad location. Is that right?

aa

aa

Damon,
How thick is your midplate? Just curious, I'm designing mine right now and I was thinking about doing away with the factory plate.
Never mind I just went back and saw that it is .093. I should've re- read the whole thing first.
Thanks David

aa

So are you going to keep that JW flexplate? If not pm me, I'm in need of one.

aa

Damon, looks good! My S&W midplate is 0.120

aa

aa

Looks downright intimidating...

aa

I think you'll have enough club for that.

Good job Damon!

Looks downright intimidating...

Steve,

Hope it runs as well as it looks. 6.20's and 9.90's or quicker would tickle me PINK!

glad to see ya got it running. 6.20's should not be a problem......

aa

Damon,

The car looks great! I can't beleive you got your car done before mine.! It was supposed to be done the end of Feb. then March, and now I have plane tickets to FL. to test the car 1st of May but it still is not done. CRAP!
My dads coming home from BAGHDAD for this so it better be done. Sorry for the rant. I can't wait to see everyone here in a few weeks. Post up some numbers after testing. 6.20s should not be a problem for you.


Take Care

Keith Sherry

Sweet Damon! Can't wait to hear what it runs. Those pistons are good for at least a second lol! Keep us posted, mine should be done by June unless I get the other car then it will be more like September. Chris

aa

Wow Damon, great job! I haven't checked in on your progress for awhile, and you sure made up some time. :D Congrats on all of your hard work, and I can't wait to see it in person at the Party. 8)

aa

Damon keep me posted on your results please.

:idea: If your ever up in Ohio PM me :!:

http://www.460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=15022


Here is his latest.

My 472 is on the way out, got the shortblock sold.

Just about have all my parts to start my similar build with a few exceptions.

Heads will be on the way to Kentucky next week..................

bump for Russ

bump