C6 trans build for transbrake or manual valvebody

This is what I do aC-6 build and it seems to give good durability

- Low /reverse Clutch
- piston use the old style with the 24 return springs and the check ball , locate check ball at 12 o'clock (these springs have a free length of 1.070" as opposed to the high/reverse free length of 1.400"
- fibre's & steels , I prefer red alto's and kolenes but the stock clutches hold up well, If your trans has a waveplate discard it . I like to have a min of 5 fibres and steels set at .060 clearance ( .012 per fibre and steel) . the pressure plate may need a step machined in the out edge twice as thick as the snapring to aid in installation of the snapring, use a magnet base dail indicator mounted to the rear sprag race to check clearance- air check
- rear planetary hub use the one with the 1" long splines
- rear planetary- preferred is a 4 pinion
- Forward clutch - prefer red alto's and kolenes,and use the new style drum (new style has a wave plate, 5 & 5 here plus the wave plate .040-.050 clearance, the pressure may need a step machined in it for the snapring or you can use a second internal pressure plate as the outer , make sure you have the right forward ringgear assemble . the new style drum has a .400 deep torrington pocket were as the old style only had a .330 deep pocket and the ringgear asembles are different the new style has longer splines on the outside and the hub is different also. a missmatch of parts here will raise havoc with end play , the planetary's are the same 3 pinion, the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , ussally I just put an new drum in each year

2nd gear - "R" servo and an "E" lever and the toughest spring I have , Band I been getting good service out of the 2 1/2 " flex band kevlar lined

- High/reverse drum , 5 clutch drum preferred, but the stock 3 clutch drum can give good service if modified by cutting a new snap ring groove . there is 2 alternatives here depending on which drum you have as some drums have a longer spline than others the ones with the long spline an new 1/8" groove is to be machined in the drum at .565 from the bottom of the original to the top of the new groove this will allow you to use one of the stock selective snap rings to achieve a clearance of of .012 - .013 per fibre & steel and using alto pt# 026757HP kit you can install 6 fibre's and 6 steels witha clearance of .072-.078 (note Alto's recommended clearance with this kit is way to tight) with the shorter splined drum you machine a new snap ring 11/8" groove in at .400 up from 5the bottom of the original groove to the top of the new groove and then step cut the pressure plate approx .165 " to allow snap ring installation and removal. With this mod the drum will hold 5 x 5 standard red alto's and kolene steels . another drum mod to do is drill a series of 1/8" holes into the perimeter of the drum in a zig-zag pattern were the steels engage in the drum , this ads in letting the oil out of the drum a cools the clutches by letting more oil flow through between the clutches , also fill all spring pockets in the piston with springs.
-pump sealing rings , get and use teflon sealing rings as they last a lot longer than the cast rings and they do not wear the drum
- set trans end play at .020-.045"
- and adjust the band , tighten to 120 inlbs and back of 1 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut


any Questions email me at fmerkl@eidnet.org or call 403-793-5412

Link to rollerizing a c6 http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=8558&sid=393341777e7d9a6bd7958594ececc708

what kind of fluid do you use frank?

Fluild : to be dead honest I've had good luck with castrol Type "F" and Synthetic dex III , syn runns about 10 -15 degrees cooler and doesn't get stinky as soon as type "F" , but then I abuse the hell out of my tran's

Frank

Hi frank, when i was in the business"trans" we used the forward bottom apply plate for the top plate in the directs and machine down the apply plate in the directs.Using the laith carefully machine the top part of the direct piston,and setting in back in the drum, checking to make sure the tabs on the steel rides on the groves in the drum.this allowed,6 direct clutch& 6 koene steels.this was achieved in the stock 4 clutch drums.I also want to point out that the "A" servo arm is the highest ratio arm for the inter-band.This summer if you are up in edmonton give me a call,Maybe i will load up my car too.

Fluild : to be dead honest I've had good luck with castrol Type "F" and Synthetic dex III , syn runns about 10 -15 degrees cooler and doesn't get stinky as soon as type "F" , but then I abuse the hell out of my tran's

Frank

i run castrol type f also.i was curious if you were using the 5w20 mobil 1 synthetic i've heard of other people using.

Do you have pics of the mods?

What kind of power do you think this type of build will hold? 800HP?

I don't see any "fancy parts" in that list, or did I miss something?

Horse power through a C6 , No special parts needed
I put 1300-1400 hp through mine , I've got 4 - 10.0's- 11.50's cars running season after season , bullet proof ( one has over 500runs and ne wants to see how many you can get before it slows down and he run's 10.10's)
and a couple of big hp mud boggers ( 800- 1700hp) running a c6 and just bring them back in the winter for a freshen
Over 600 hp I recomend putting on an aluminum pan , at 800 ftlbs torque an aftermarket imputshaft . I ran a stock imput shaft to 8.00's
Frank

C6 2nd gear apply levers Ratio's
A- 1.65 to 1
B- 1.73 to 1
D- 1.97 to 1
E- 1.85 to 1
H- 2.18 to 1
F- 2.30 to 1

and this was copyed Direct from my FoMoCo Training school manual that I got in 1973
Frank

If you want to know why I like an "R" servo with an "E" lever , It's all a matter of shift timing , If you have the wrong lever with the wrong servo and the wrong servo return spring you'll end up with a bunch of burnt clutches flares or locks on shifts
Frank

Thanks frank for the info.I was allways under the assumption that the" a" servo lever was the highest ratio.Cause when you look at the lever,the contact area where the piston sets on and where the strut meets up to the lever they are very close together.When you go to a higher ratio rocker arm on a motor the push rod moves farther from the fulcrum.Under this understanding from motor rockers this would explain my misunderstanding.Does this mean that the "a" ratio arm would react quicker, but not hold better?I installed a "A" lever on my c6 with a "p" servo and spring assembly.

yes an "A" reacts faster but give less applyed pressure , and applying too fast causes a locks on shifts (shift overlap) and also the wrong servo with the wrong lever for a give line pressure will cause a flare on shifts , there is so many combinations it would drive a person nut to try to figure them all out . so I stick with a "R"servo an "E" lever in my valvebodies because it took days on the dyno to get the shift overlap right ,IE just enough that the is no flare on the shifts and not so much take there is a tug on the shifts
Frank

Frank, I am using a Coan billet high ratio (they don't give a number) apply lever with a "R" servo and I feel a tug when I'm driving in the pits and shift into second. From your description it sounds like the problem is the apply ratio is too high, based on the tug felt, and I should swap the apply lever to a lower ratio.

OK. Since I know enough about transmissions to know to keep my big hands out of them, what does it normally run to get one rebuilt? Anyone here willing to do it for a fair price? I am wanting to run a single turbo 460 in an 89 Mustang with a C6. I would like to obtain 600 RWHP and pull the 1/8th in 6 or less seconds. It will be 99% 1/8th drag strip run with an occasional trip through town to scare them Shoveatoilet boys about half outta their pants.

VR3 , who's valvebody are you running ? it could be as simple as a hole in the spacerplate .030 to big , Alot of people building valvebody's don't have a clue about hydraulic's , you could send the valvebody up to me and I could Dyno it in a trans and see what the problem is .
Frank
email me at fmerkl@eidnet.org or call me at 403-793-5412

Great info frank, what about converting it too a full roller?

i was seeing wide ratio kits aswell, or would this be a bad idea with a BB?

30" tires with 3.89 gears....

Thanks for the great info, Frank.
Is there any advantage to using a ribbed C6 case?

bmp

bmp

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Hey Frank i'm installing a tci manuel reverse valve body and i noticed a little hole pluged with RVT thats between the two front center pan bolts i didnt know if this is a trick or i should take it out?

clean it out , that's the bleed hole to let any oil that leaks past the front pump gasket ,between o'ring on the pump seals the pump to the case that way the o'ring doesn't get over pressured
Frank

Thanks Frank

Frank got a another ? for you can i take out the downshift rod out of the shifter rod and fill it with rvt i'm asking because i cut off the threds to the downshift shaft so i cant put back in the o ring and nut.I'm going to look at my c-4 in my cobra two i think thats how performance automatic does it.

Take out the downshift lever and put a cupplug in it or a peice of aluminum rod
Frank

Thanks again gonna run it tomorrow and see how much it helps going from stock valvebody to a full manuel unit.

What i did lastnite before i read your post is i moved the downshift lever all the way to the inside untill it hit the drum and cleaned the rod and inside the shifter shaft with brakeclean and put rvt on the rod and inside the shift shaft and then slid the rod back into the shaft and let it dry over nite my ? is does that rod need to move around in there ? i didnt think so because you have the nut and o ring on there usally i just want to make sure its not going to screw up the trans tomorrow, if it leaks a little no big deal i'll fix it right this week with a cup plug like you said is this a ok temp fix?

Nucler ,silicone will work but not as nice and clean and tidy as I like to build
frank

Nucler ,silicone will work but not as nice and clean and tidy as I like to build
frank

Thanks again Frank

bmp ,seeing that I got a lot of calls on the build
Frank

Thanks! I was in the middle of sifting through all the replies from the search function looking for this post.

tt

shouldnt this be in the parts for sal forum?

shouldnt this be in the parts for sal forum?

Not really, he is giving good information on how to build a C6 to his specifications.

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Got a few questions about Frank's build thread. maybe some one else has been there? In the forward clutch I used the new style drum (w/ the .400 bearing pocket) w/ the wave plate, and was able to put 5+5, and used the flipped internal press. plate. The problem is that there is way too much clearance, (I can put another snap ring in) it ends up @ .080-.084 clearance. Is that ok with that configuration? Did I miss something? I used the same ring gear assy. that came out behind it also.
How can you tell which high/reverse drum you have? long or short spline? I need to figure that out so I can machine the right dimension snap ring groove. W/ 5+5 the clearance should be @ .060? Also the step cut in the press. plate should be .165 deep? x how wide? Thanks for any help, don't want to have to do this more than once. Thanks,
Mike

first check your stack height on your front planetary and ring assembly for the .400 deep forward drum pocket, there is selective snaprings for the clutck packs ie ; .043" .056" .066" ,076' .086" .096" .106" with a stock 3 clutch high/reverse drum with 5 cluctches you will not have to mod the pressure plate ,on cutting the new snap ring groove have your machinest with a .125" snapring groove cutter register in the orginal snapring grooves outtermost edge then cut a new groove .325" farther out leaving the section in betweem the old and the new groove
Frank

Hey Frank, do you rebuild complete trannys? I have a TCI C6 with your Transbrake V/B fix done over the winter but, if it doesn't work this time i'm looking for the best place to send it. And i think your it! I have been fighting sliding 1-2 shift for 3 seasons now and it's getting old!

Mav , shipping across the border is a pain to say the least ,and if you did the mod's it should be fine
Frank

mav, how far are you from the SOO??

mav, how far are you from the SOO??
About 3hrs. I'm 12mi from Marquette in Ishpeming.

i was gonna say my bro in law lives in Soo Canada, and we go there a fair amount i could have grabbed the trans and ship to Frank and bring it back down to the SOO when its done. If all else fails.
WAY UP IN THE U.P?? you still got to cross the mackinac? thats WAY south LOL