1/4 mile results on driveshaft comparisons

I had an aluminum motorsport driveshaft for mainly weight reasons. It weighed 13 pounds complete.
1/4 mile times were 9.84 at 136.9mph with this shaft
I broke it 2 weeks ago, so i put in a factory steel shaft with 1330 joints.
Total weight of this shaft is 21 lbs complete.
1/4 mile time last night was 9.87 at 136.67mph, but my 60 ft was off by 3 hundreds.
Results in my eyes are that there is no difference at all, and be safe and run a steel shaft.
I figured 8 lbs of rotating mass would have shown a difference, but i guess the torque of these bb just eats up the weight difference.

I would say that the differences are minimal because that weight is just in so close to the centerline of rotation anyway. Also, the driveshaft moves at less than engine rpm for part of the run too.. Having it lighter would very slightly reduce unsprung weight but how important is that on a drag car?

I would say that if you were running something with very low horsepower the differences would be greater percentage wise, good test though..

I would say that the differences are minimal because that weight is just in so close to the centerline of rotation anyway. Also, the driveshaft moves at less than engine rpm for part of the run too.. Having it lighter would very slightly reduce unsprung weight but how important is that on a drag car?

I would say that if you were running something with very low horsepower the differences would be greater percentage wise, good test though..
i think you nailed it with the weight being close to the centerline. I was stunned with the results, and it defies the laws of physics.
guy i know was going to order a custom aluminum extruded shaft, but i think he might stick to a chromemoly shaft now.

Could the Slower Times be Weather or Track Prep Related?

Could the Slower Times be Weather or Track Prep Related?
Actually, the first time of 9.84 was 1.40 60 ft, weather was 25c, track was decent.
The second time with the steel driveshaft was poor weather, 28c, high humidity(very hazy), track was slick, and it still pulled a 9.87 with a 1.43 60 ft ?
I think under the same weather conditions it would have ran faster!!
I never changed anything, not air pressure, nothing other than the driveshaft.
Would momentum have a part in this?

Could the Slower Times be Weather or Track Prep Related?
Actually, the first time of 9.84 was 1.40 60 ft, weather was 25c, track was decent.
The second time with the steel driveshaft was poor weather, 28c, high humidity(very hazy), track was slick, and it still pulled a 9.87 with a 1.43 60 ft ?
I think under the same weather conditions it would have ran faster!!
I never changed anything, not air pressure, nothing other than the driveshaft.
Would momentum have a part in this?

May be the Aluminum Shaft was Wraping up (Twisting) and the steel one isn't?

thats what i was wondering, torsional load bind, or flex, could be how they last up to the power levels we are putting thru them. I would love to see an aluminum shaft under 1500 lbs of torque in slow motion............

I had an aluminum motorsport driveshaft for mainly weight reasons. It weighed 13 pounds complete.
1/4 mile times were 9.84 at 136.9mph with this shaft
I broke it 2 weeks ago, so i put in a factory steel shaft with 1330 joints.
Total weight of this shaft is 21 lbs complete.
1/4 mile time last night was 9.87 at 136.67mph, but my 60 ft was off by 3 hundreds.
Results in my eyes are that there is no difference at all, and be safe and run a steel shaft.
I figured 8 lbs of rotating mass would have shown a difference, but i guess the torque of these bb just eats up the weight difference.

Just wanted to make sure. Is this a factory 5.0 mustang driveshaft with 1330 yokes? If so I'm going to stop worrying about mine. I've been going consistant 1.49 60's (on the t-brake) but wasn't sure it would take it for long. I have the heavy duty u-joints but thats it. Thanks...

My guess is not so much roatation weight but when it breaks. I would think the aluminum would be more forgiving coming thru a steel floor board then it's steel counterpart.

I have a steel one but thought of it coming in the car, well I just don't want to think about it.. There was a guy on a different forum, when his steel driveshaft broke at the front first, it came in the car. Broke his arm in two places, rupured his spleen and kindney. He had a removable floor board for trans work and the car was certified..

Just my ideas on the subject..

Laters!

yes, its the factory shaft with 1330's . To date I have about 50 passes on it, with most of the 60's in the 1.36-1.40 range :D
As for the shaft coming through the floor, thats just sick.........Im putting in a second loop close to the axle this week to keep the shaft off the ground if it does break..............

Thanks for the information guy's!!!

I have seen chevy tests that were on the harmonic dampner,the larger heavy dampner showed better times in the 1/4 ,than a light weight one.

How did you do the 1330 joints.I assume your running the big yoke on the front like a c6.That would be 1330 correct?Then did you change the 8.8 to a 1330 style joint or do you run a 9in.Thanks

How did you do the 1330 joints.I assume your running the big yoke on the front like a c6.That would be 1330 correct?Then did you change the 8.8 to a 1330 style joint or do you run a 9in.Thanks

Spicer 1330 joints will fit in a stock mustang driveshaft front and back with an 8.8 rearend. The 1350 joints are 1/16 of an inch larger and require an aftermarket yoke and pinion

Oh ok sorry for the stupidity lol.Thanks for clearing that up