my 69 lincoln update and questions inside.

Hello everyone was just hoping to share my build with you all; and i am hoping you might be able to answer a question or 2 about it.

this is a review of a very very basic outline of what i have done, please skip down if you like to the question.


this is the short short version.

i finished rebuiding my lincoln power train. got odds and ends to do on the interior and junk. but the motor is 100% new. everything has been serviced or replaced ect ect. also kinda unfortunatly i ended up doing the transmission, was kinda scary but i got through it and now i know more.

highlights of motor

bored .060 over,

now a 474cid???

compcam custom grind cam with matching hydro lifters and springs.

new coated valves, pistons.

new seats, now runs safely on unleaded fuel.

New dist., wires, coil, plugs.

oil pump, bearings, ect ect you know the usual inners are all new a brilliant.

couple pics, ok lots of pics but they dont require reading.

you might not know, or more likely dont remember. she kinda well blew up on me. piston 5 broke at the wrist pin and did a number on the interals.

what was left, ever a couple of bent push rods when the bits collided with the valves.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/793ed32c.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/810dea7d.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/engine%20teardown/P1010055.jpg

nasty old

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/842702fe.jpg


pretty pretty new

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/P1010006-1.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/P1010006-2.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/re%20assembly/P1010022.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/P1010001.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln%20build/P1010024.jpg


and best yet it was all done 100% by me, ok i didnt do my own machining but common im still new and this was my first project

and it even started up after 3 brief cranks i was surprised and deeply satisfied by that. If you might recall i had a post about that had some ruff running, but i had my mixture screws all the way in.

here it is running, not the first start but well its somthing. i finished this like late nov. just barely got the break in miles on but it all went smoothly and look forward to driving it alot this summer.

this was taken with just a crappy digi cam not a proper video camera.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln/th_100_0114.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln/?action=view&current=100_0114.flv)

THE QUESTIONS

this is in a 69 lincoln conitinental, its just a cruising car but i wouldnt be normal if i wasnt curious about the horse power.

just what excatly do i have for heads?

these are the specs listed in my FSM

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln/lincolnebginespecs0001.jpg


As for the cam i just called comp and told them what i was doing with the car and that in the future perhaps I might add to it.

this is the stock cam specs

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln/lincolncamspecs0001.jpg

and here is the comp specs.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h235/vashtsdaytona/lincoln/lincolncompcamspecs0001.jpg

can anyone better explain what changes this really made? and yep as stated above i got the springs and lifters to go with it.

but i am running the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, as well as the stock 450cfm? autolite 4300 4bbl. the exhaust is 2.5in from the manifolds back emptys into 2 flowmaster 40s.

so what do you think i am running for HP an TQ now? would there really be any change if at all? are the FSM nubmers totaly bogus?


also would i gain anything by adding a larger carb to it while maintaining the stock intake? any suggestions on what carb and ideas on increase?

or how about a carb and intake combo?

I think that about sums it up, i cant thank you guys enough for helping me with all those first timer quesitons in all my other threads.

Well, I'll take a shot at it!!

You have installed a slightly hotter camshaft, and its going to give you more power, however, the factory spec manual does not give us the duration or lobe separation figures, so Im just guessing that they are at least 20-30 degrees less in overall duration and about the same at the .050" figure.

Those stock exaust manifolds are going to kill a lot of power that you would have with headers.

Also, the stock heavy iron intake manifold is great for torque from idle to about 3200 RPM's...after that, it starts to choke the engine and is very restrictive.

And that carburetor is way too small for a beast of this size....but it will work, and again, the throttle response and off-idle torque would be quite brutal, but then it too will be choking the engine and starving for air.

There are remedies thankfully!!

A good aluminum intake like a Edelbrock Performer RPM or a Weiand Stealth highrise will do wonders.
Also, I'd go with at least an 850 CFM carb.

Headers and dual exaust with a "X" style crossover pipe will also help breathing and performance.

thank you sir for that advice, i have a better understanding now

i forgot to add, since obviously this isnt really anything but a cruising car and i dont expect big numbers or even care about how extreme the motor can get.

but do you think with those suggested mods i would feel a difference? this thing wont be seeing a dyno and i wouldnt bother unless it was something i could feel in my foot.

I am glad to see that I am not the only one who see these big cars as cool cruisers.

I am glad to see that I am not the only one who see these big cars as cool cruisers.

Are you kidding??..........I was drooling all over the desk watching the video of the super fine 69'......then I seen yours and it starts all over again!......I always wanted a suicide door lincoln!.....amongst others.:D:D

top gun, yours seems to be in better condition to mine, but im far from done with this project, but the plan is to get as nice and clean as yours.

smasher thanks for the compliments (not sure they were directed at me, but any old lincoln compliments are great to hear)

i have done more to the car but just have been lazy on the updates. most importantly i belvie i have the auto climate control sorted out.

and i just put on a new holley 770 carb with electric choke, its so nice to have a fuel delivery system that works properly. it runs so perfectly now and cold starts are a breeze. i should take some current video and pics to reflect this.

nice ride!

I would think an edelbrock performer intake would give another 10 - 15 horse over the stocker , it is my understanding the stockers had rich lean conditions that greatly limited their power .

Nice '69 lincoln man love that car

thanks for the advice

im not sure if an aftermarket intake will work for me. its hard to tell from the pics ive seen but it almost seems like some ports and threaded holes are missing on the aftermarket. while it would still technically work. i think i would be limited or need to get creative to make all my stock accessories and what not. but i cant confirm or deny this.

Congrats on the nice build , some issues that you may want to address early is with some things I saw from your pictures. 1: The rocker arms you are using are not really designed for performance thay are cast rail type rockers which are non adjustable, and with the cam you have they won't hold up to the pounding. 2: I would install push rod guide plates if you have the C9VE heads?as well as hardened push rods. I couldn't tell from the pictures what type you have.The Comp Cams roller tipped rockers would be a suggestion for the valve train assembly up grade. 3: Edelbrock performer intakes and Holley carbs mounting and throttle linkage will work. I have a 73 Mark IV and I was able to use all of the old linkage and just transferrred them over to the Edelbrock intake. Finally a Holley 750 cfm vacumn secondary is the carb to use, its good on gas and bolts right on to the edelbrock intake, there is a kit that can be bought seperately for the Auto trans tick down to work properly without a whole lot of fuss. I suggest the secondary vac carb because if you havent switched out the rear end gear the 850cfm double pumper will bogg out really bad JMO. Remeber with Carbs bigger is not always better.
Have fun with a great sleeper cruiser.
Bud V

always appricate advice, never considered the rocker arms an issue, now i will look into that. wouldnt want destruction under the vavle covers.

and its nice to know i can us an aftermarket intake, and im thinking you missed it or miss read somthing. the carb i bought is a 770, so ok a little bigger than your suggesting, and is vac secendaries. i talk to someone at the company on the phone and this was the suggest carb for me. it is a street avenger in shinny aluminium.


right now im dealing with replacing a shift shaft seal as it started to weep, and im tracking down parts for a rear u joint replacement. it is the double constant velocity type. but i think it will work out.

The Holley 770 is a good carb. Sorry about the trans Good luck and about the double constant velocity u-joint. GM's have the same set up on there 1970-1976 Full size auto line like Olds Delta 88-& 98, Chevrolet Impala, Bel-Aire, & Caprice, Buick Electra, Lasabre, Cadillac's all models except Eldorado. Pontaic Bonnevill, Catalina, Grand Prix, and Grandville They may work and are more numerous to find at bone yards. On my 1975 Olds 98 mine split in two at the joint and I had to replace the whole drive shaft replaced it with one out of a 1976 Chevrolet Caprice. I know it's a GM part but if My memory serves me right i think the double CV joint was designed by DANA. and designed to service both company's. Don't quote me but i think im right.
Bud V

i solved the tranny leak all is well there.

i punked out on the drive shaft and pulled it off and took it in. had both ends serviced and in the rear (im not up on my drive shaft tech) there was a ball that was bad making most of the noise. it had to be cut out and new one re-weleded in. plus they balanced the shaft. cost 170$ but now its just sooo quiet and comfy. it was worth it.

now it only makes noise when i romp the gas pedal. just like it should.

looking back at old threads trying to find answers to my questions... not trying to hijack

73 Mark IV Hot Rod you said that someone makes a kit for the kickdown? I can't afford to have my car down for more than a few days at a time (use an off site shop, can't let it sit there forever...) and while i'm gathering the parts for the intake swap, i need to be certain that i can get the transmission working correctly again. unfortunately i haven't had luck finding the information, or a step-by-step that anyone else wrote up. if anyone knows the details on making sure the transmission kickdown works correctly after an intake swap, or can link me to the info on another post, i'd love to hear it. (currently planning on swapping on an RPM air gap and a holley 780)

holley part #20-91 should be the kickdown linkage adapter youll need