2003 F150 Supercrew + turbo + bbf

I bought the truck off Craig's List with a 4.6 liter that had water in the oil. It's a 2003 Ford F150 Supercrew 2x4. These trucks have four full-size doors and a short bed and weigh ~4,600 according to internet research.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-19Justbroughttruckhome00-2.jpg

Engine Build:
-- IDT Ultra Block
-- A460 heads (18 bolt)
-- Mild hydraulic or hydraulic roller camshaft
-- DIY intake manifold
-- DIY exhaust and turbo piping
-- EFI using Megasquirt
-- Offset ground Boss crank. Total cid TBD, but it'll be 490 - 528 cid.
-- 98 mm Garrett turbocharger
-- 6,500 rpm shift point

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-19UTV9406001.jpg

Here's my general plan:
1) Pull the 4.6 liter, transmission (auto), exhaust, fuel system (including fuel tank), spare tire, radiator, ect.

2) With the help of an EVTM (Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual), I will dissect the wiring harness. I will only keep the wiring I need. Basically, I will get rid of the ECM and emissions wiring.

3) Install parts:
3a) Engine will be installed with motor plate (front & mid plate).
3b) I will move the trans x-member to fit the C6 trans.
3c) I will install a fuel cell where the spare tire used to be. It will be a 20+ gallon steel fuel cell with a bladder. I will also install the fuel pump & filters at this time.
3d) I will install a ~2 gallon tank for methanol injection
3e) I 'may' install a 5 gallon tank if I go with an air/water intercooler.

4) Finish building my intake manifold for the A460 heads.

5) Fabricate exhaust & turbo piping:
5a) Headers & x-over going turbo
5b) Fabricate cold side
5c) Fabricate exhaust system (5" split into two 3.5")

Well, that's as far ahead as I can think right now... Right now, the work isn't very exciting, but I will post a few photographs of the highlights :).

Have a good day!
Michael

Good luck! :)

I'm curious as to why you chose to do a BBF turbo swap over a 4v 5.4 turbo swap. Seems that it would be tons cheaper and net nearly the same power results.

I'm curious as to why you chose to do a BBF turbo swap over a 4v 5.4 turbo swap. Seems that it would be tons cheaper and net nearly the same power results.
The 5.4 may be able to match the hp output of that BB, but I doubt it could ever match the tq. And seeing as how he is using a truck for his project, he'll need plenty of torque.

I like it you could call it "White Lightnings 4 Door Brother",that could be one hell of a sleeper if you wanted it to be one.

Later Mark.

is it done yet?

I'm curious as to why you chose to do a BBF turbo swap over a 4v 5.4 turbo swap. Seems that it would be tons cheaper and net nearly the same power results.

AKB is right, a 5.4 will never match the torque of a bbf. I'm not sure how easy it is to get a 5.4 up to 1,400 hp (my long term goal is to run 10.0x). That's ~4.25 hp/cid whereas a 528 bbf would be at 2.65 hp/cid. I think that either engine family would require aftermarket block, heads, cams, ect. At that point, is the 5.4 any cheaper?



I like it you could call it "White Lightnings 4 Door Brother",that could be one hell of a sleeper if you wanted it to be one.

Later Mark.

That's good! My wife and I have already brainstormed a few names. I like to get custom license plates and I want to figure out a good one for this. I like them to give a small hint, but not give it away ;).



is it done yet?


"If you ask one more time, I'm going to turn this car around and we're not going...."

Sorry, I had a flashback to my childhood :).

The more I think about this project, the more I think that it's going to be a relatively easy and straight forward swap. I love that I don't have to worry about room in the engine bay, clearance between the engine and radiator, and ground clearance for my exhaust!!!

Have a good day!
Michael

I may have you confused with someone else so please correct me if Im wrong but....


Didnt you plan on putting a similar motor in your Mustang? Is this the same motor build just changed platforms or are you building 2 vehicles?

I may have you confused with someone else so please correct me if Im wrong but....


Didnt you plan on putting a similar motor in your Mustang? Is this the same motor build just changed platforms or are you building 2 vehicles?

Kris,

Basically, you got it right. I am using the parts that I already bought for my 96 Mustang (block & heads) and changing the combo to include a turbo.

When I very first started this build, I was planning on going turbo. Then, I decided to go N/A. Well, now I'm back to the turbo build, but with less cubes. Before, I even got as far as mounting the intercooler in my Mustang...

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/96%20Mustang/Radiator%20Crossmember%20Mod/RadiatorCrossmember1-18-08007.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/96%20Mustang/Radiator%20Crossmember%20Mod/RadiatorCrossmember1-18-08009.jpg

So, I bought the F150 because it was more 'streetable' with it's larger interior. Also, it has a lot more room for the engine, turbocharger, and exhaust (ground clearance). I also believe it will fit the 'sleeper' look a lot better. When I'm done with this build, there will be nothing on the exterior that gives a hint at the drivetrain that's in it :D :D. I will try to sell the Mustang. If it doesn't sell, I'll figure something out for it...

Have a good day!
Michael

A little progress:

Pulled the exhaust, engine, & transmission. It looks like a BBF motor plate will fit across the frame rails nicely. It also looks like a FOX oil pan (rear sump) will clear the x-member under the engine.

I have learned:
1) Don't lay underneath the transmission pan while untightening the bolts to drain the fluid
2) The transmission pan gasket is non-stick!!! I dumped a couple quarts of fluid right on top of me :(.
3) How come I spill 5+ quarts of tranny fluid every single gosh darn'd time I pull a transmission?????!!!!! I hate cleaning that stuff off my driveway!!!!!!!!!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-25PullingEngine010.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-25PullingEngine012.jpg

I got my wiring diagram book for the truck (thanks for the part # Lem!). The only thing I really need to remove from the engine wiring is the A/C compressor. The starter wiring is separate and the power steering doesn't have any wiring. I am not sure if I'm going to keep the cruise control. I'm going to look through the book to see what inputs it needs. I'm not too sure what my options for a speed sensor are...I'll do some thinking though.

Before I start fitting up the motor plate, I will remove the spare tire, fuel tank, fuel filter, fuel lines, and ABS stuff. As far as the ABS is concerned, I 'think' I can simply bypass the ABS portion with DIY brake lines.

I'm still trying to find an empty C6 case for mock up purposes.

Have a good day!
Michael

Keep us poster as it continues to progress. it is looking good so far

looking good Mikey ....cant wait till she is done ...its a really cool build:)

looking good Mikey ....cant wait till she is done ...its a really cool build:)

X2. The badassedness potential is great with this one.

Michael,

Looking good keep up posting the pictures,that frame is alot cleaner than the trucks up here in the rust belt.

Later Mark.

Looks Awesome Michael.That'll be one killer sleeper.Can't wait to see it at the bash or sooner.Sooner :D---RED

I'm not too sure what my options for a speed sensor are...

As far as the ABS is concerned, I 'think' I can simply bypass the ABS portion with DIY brake lines.




Speed sensor should be on top of the rear diff and the ABS should still function a slong as you keep it all intact. Don't mess with the speed sensor, wheel sensors, etc... and you should be fine. If the truck had a throttle cable from the factory you may be able to hook the cruise right back up as well.

Speed sensor should be on top of the rear diff and the ABS should still function a slong as you keep it all intact. Don't mess with the speed sensor, wheel sensors, etc... and you should be fine. If the truck had a throttle cable from the factory you may be able to hook the cruise right back up as well.

Well, I already removed the ABS 'brain' that all the brake lines went into and out of. As soon as I get my line lock, I'll get the line lock and adjustable proportioning valve mounted, make a few brake lines, and get the brakes bled. Then, I should be done messing with the brakes for now...

Yes, the cruise control did work with throttle cable. I think the speed sensor is in the transmission because I spent time near the rear differential pulling the spare tire, exhaust system/heat shields, and some emissions thingie by the spare tire and only noticed the vent coming from the differential.

Thanks for the info, I would love to keep the cruise control!

Since I'm posting, I'll give a small update :)
I ordered my front plate, mid plate, and line lock. Also, I bought an empty C6 transmission case. I crawled under the truck and held the trans case up there with some wood blocks in the bellhousing area. It'll fit just fine :). The C6 has lots of room on the sides. Mainly, the top of the bellhousing hits at the firewall/trans tunnel transition. Interestingly enough, I think the trans x-member is in the perfect spot and I don't think it'll require any mods to make it work :).

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-29TranmissionTunnelClearanc.jpg

Have a good day!
Michael

Very cool build Michael!!!

They say that trans fluid is good for the skin!!!

This should be an animal on the street!! You can take the whole family along to beat up on some Camaros and Vettes!!

Bill

Check the rear end again. Speed ensor should be dead nuts on top of the housing. That's where it's been on my 94 and my 01 trucks. Haven't crawled under my 08 yet to look...

I'm looking forward to this buildup.

I think you guys are talking about different speed sensors!!

Isn't there one SS for the ABS on the diff and one SS for the ECM/cruise control on the trans?:D

Bill

Not sure. I remember my old 94 F150 had a plug in the traditional speedo spot on the trans and the speed sensor on the diff fed the ABS (rear only), speedo and c/control. Later trucks may be different. I do know that the ABS uses speed sensors on each front wheel though. It would still need the diff one for the rear ABS as well.

I've never owned an F150 of the year(s) that Michael has.

Yeah John, that makes sense, I just have seen some vehicles that have both. Our '06 Dodge had two front, two rear for ABS and one in the trans for the ecm and cruise etc.

Hope I didn't confuse the situation.....;)

Bill

Hope I didn't confuse the situation.....;)




Oh yeah, we're confused now :)

Jeeeze, that was easy!!:D

Bill

I'm only on my first cup of coffee. Easily confused right now.

OK, I took another look under the truck and I was wrong. This truck has a speed sensor at each front wheel, the rear differential, and the transmission. So, it sounds like the front wheels and differential speed sensors are for the ABS while the transmission sensor is for the cruise control and speedometer.

On a side note, I sold a vehicle today...so now I have some moolay to buy more parts !!! :D

I'm going to buy my wastegate, BOV, fuel cell, hot side tubing/flanges, cold tubing, exhaust system, and mufflers :D. I have lots and lots of work to do now!!!

Have a good day!
Michael

OK, I took another look under the truck and I was wrong. This truck has a speed sensor at each front wheel, the rear differential, and the transmission. So, it sounds like the front wheels and differential speed sensors are for the ABS while the transmission sensor is for the cruise control and speedometer.

On a side note, I sold a vehicle today...so now I have some moolay to buy more parts !!! :D

I'm going to buy my wastegate, BOV, fuel cell, hot side tubing/flanges, cold tubing, exhaust system, and mufflers :D. I have lots and lots of work to do now!!!

Have a good day!
Michael

Spend spend spend!!!! Its fun buying parts for a new project!!:D

Bill

I'm curious as to why you chose to do a BBF turbo swap over a 4v 5.4 turbo swap. Seems that it would be tons cheaper and net nearly the same power results.


BECAUSE THIS IS 460FORD.COM DAMMIT !!!!!!!!! :D

BECAUSE THIS IS 460FORD.COM DAMMIT !!!!!!!!! :D

Couldn't have said it better Jeff!!

Bill

Yea its fun when you got the money to buy new parts

Today, I got my final list together to purchase some more parts. With this build, I will try to carefully keep track of my expenses. I even went back into my box of old receipts and input items that will go into this build and were purchased throughout the years.

Turbo Parts:
(20) 3.5", assorted bends (Exhaust system)
Oil Drainback Flange, Alum
Oil Inlet Flange, Alum
1/2" thick T6 Flange, MS
5" V band assembly, MS
(4) 2.5" V band assembly, MS (x-over)
(6) 3.5" V band assembly, MS (exhaust system)
60 mm Wastegate -- JGS
56mm Blowoff Valve -- JGS
(3) O2 Bungs
1-7/8" Alignment Sleeves
(2 kits) 1-7/8" Mandrel Bends
(3) 2.5" 180*, 16 ga, 3.75" Rad
(2) 2.5" 180*, 16 ga, 5.0" Rad
(1) 3.0" 180*, 16 ga, 4.0 Rad
(2) 1-7/8" --> 2-1/2" collectors
Alignment Tool
Collector Bullets
(2) 2.5" Flex Bellow
3.5" ---> 4.0" silocone coupler
3.5" ---> 3.5" silocone coupler

Fuel Parts:
Fuel Cell -- 22 gallon Jaz
Fuel Cell Straps
AN-12 Fuel Pickup
AN-8 Return line Bulkhead

I pulled the engine/trans out of my 96 Mustang and put the engine and empty trans case in the F150. Everything went in smoothly and I see no real clearance issues. I have the Moroso Fox oil pan ~1/4" from the draglink. With the engine sitting at its current position, it is tilting back 0.2* (measured from the transmission pan rail). My new motor plate is sitting at my old house on the wrong side of the state...so I'm using the Mustang front plate so I can see what the engine looks like in the engine bay. I have the plate sitting on some wood spacers.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-04FirstEnginePlacement2005.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-04FirstEnginePlacement2008.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-04FirstEnginePlacement2004.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-04FirstEnginePlacement2003.jpg

The last two pictures show the clearance from underneath. I need to move the engine over ~1.5" to the passenger side in order to use the OEM transmission x-member and it's existing holes. The rear axle is offset ~1.5" to the passenger side too. Moving the engine will alleviate the minor clearance issue at the steering shaft. Luckily, the steering shaft doesn't directly block any exhaust ports. Instead, it goes between two of them (no harm, no foul :) ).

There is tons of room for the dual 3.5" exhaust to go all the way to the back bumper. I am removing the OEM fuel tank (side mount) and mounting the Jaz fuel cell under the bed and behind the rear axle. Since that cell is only 9.25" tall, I'll have plenty of room for the exhaust. Furthermore, I doubt the fuel cell will be visible from the rear unless you are looking underneath the truck. Finally, I am going to use the OEM fuel door and plumb it to the remote mounted fuel cell.

Have a good day!
Michael

Your makin Some purty good progress

That sure fits in there nice. Lots of room for plumbing!!

Bill

I like your idea and your progress so far. I know this is off topic but do you plan on lowering the truck and putting wheels on it or are you leaving it stock?

I like your idea and your progress so far. I know this is off topic but do you plan on lowering the truck and putting wheels on it or are you leaving it stock?

I plan to leave it at OEM ride height, but I'll get some sticky tires for it. Basically, I am doing only what is required to get the engine in there. I am not relocating the battery, dissecting the wiring harness, ect. In the future, depending on how well its going down the track, I may redo the rear suspension to a three or four link setup. At that time, I may will figure out what ride height I want.

If the OEM suspension and ride height gets me my 10.0x et, I will probably leave it alone and enjoy it :D.

Small update: I got my front plate, but they sent me a mid-plate for a Hemi. I am making my mounts for the front plate right now. This thing fits very nicely! I will post pictures when I get it mounted in the truck...

Have a good day!
Michael

Some progress today...I got the front plate mounted.

Clearance around steering shaft:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-12FrontPlateInstalled003.jpg

This is how the engine will sit:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-12FrontPlateInstalled005.jpg

I am still waiting for my mid plate and line lock (almost 3 weeks now...).

I have two minor clearance issues:

1) The driver's side valve cover looks like won't clear the dimple in the firewall for the steering shaft. I believe that the valve covers can easily be modified to make this work. The clearance issue is at the 'bottom' of the valve cover area...so the stud girdle isn't where the problem occurs.

2) Depending on how my 5" down pipe exits the engine bay, I may have the relocate the tall cylindrical thingie for the A/C.

Have a good day!
Michael

Some progress today...I got the front plate mounted.

Clearance around steering shaft:
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-12FrontPlateInstalled003.jpg

This is how the engine will sit:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-12FrontPlateInstalled005.jpg

I am still waiting for my mid plate and line lock (almost 3 weeks now...).

I have two minor clearance issues:

1) The driver's side valve cover looks like won't clear the dimple in the firewall for the steering shaft. I believe that the valve covers can easily be modified to make this work. The clearance issue is at the 'bottom' of the valve cover area...so the stud girdle isn't where the problem occurs.

2) Depending on how my 5" down pipe exits the engine bay, I may have the relocate the tall cylindrical thingie for the A/C.

Have a good day!
Michael

Could you "clearance" the firewall with the ole BFH? Might be easier than chopping the valve cover.....

Might be able to move the thingie to the front of the engine bay.

Bill

Michael,

The build looks great and I love your ideas. It was nice talking with you and please feel free to contact me if I can be of any help!

Dan

Michael, this is an insanely cool build. It seems like this engine is almost meant to be.

Guys, thanks for the comments !!! I would have never had the confidence or knowledge to attempt a build like this without the you guys on this site.

OK, another update: brake lines and motor stands.

Last update, I thought the accumulator might cause a slight clearance issue. I didn't want to move it so I stared into the engine bay until a good option popped into my head :). I have lots of clearance between the engine and x-member under the motor, but it would still be a bit of a squeeze snaking a 5" downpipe through there. So, I decided to cut the motor stands out of the x-member. By doing that, I added a ~4" of clearance (where it counts most). Now, a 5" downpipe will not a problem...

Engine bay, before picture:

Notice the motor stands and the brake lines (rats nest)/ABS module on the driver's side frame rail and near the steering box:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-07-25PullingEngine009.jpg

Engine bay, after picture:

Again, notice the extra room gained by ditching the ABS module and redoing the brake lines on the driver's side. I mounted the adjustable proportioning valve and line lock with some ~0.100" aluminum on the master cylinder bolts. The angle doesn't show it well, but the brake lines tuck up to the firewall to maximize clearance. I modified the OEM brake lines when possible.

I torched the OEM motor stands out. The reinforcement plate is 0.185" mild steel (0.050" thicker than the OEM steel used there).

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-19Brakelinesandmotorstan-1.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-08-19Brakelinesandmotorstands0.jpg

Next tasks:
-- Finish building intake manifold
-- Finalize turbo placement and build permanent mount for turbo
-- Build bracketry to mount A/C, P/S, and alternator
-- Build headers and other hotside tubing

My 1-7/8" bends are en route now (they were back ordered).

Have a good day!
Michael

Nice work Michael!! The brake lines look great all tucked away under the M/C like that. Looks like you opened up alot of room under there for your down pipe.

Bill

big turbo and big block , good stuff

off subject but you are the only one i have seen putting this motor in this body style truck. is there room to move the motor forward any? i bought a built 466 with a tunnle ram and 2 4's. but i don't think the intake and carbs will clear the upper firewall. the motor sits too far back.

the pics you have posted have already helped me alot. i have subscribed to this thread and can't wait for updates

off subject but you are the only one i have seen putting this motor in this body style truck. is there room to move the motor forward any? i bought a built 466 with a tunnle ram and 2 4's. but i don't think the intake and carbs will clear the upper firewall. the motor sits too far back.

the pics you have posted have already helped me alot. i have subscribed to this thread and can't wait for updates

If you relocate the brake line that's going along the back of the x-member, you can move the engine forward 2.75". Now, this is assuming you're using the same oil pan that I am (Moroso Fox pan). If you use an oil pan with a smaller sump, you'll be able to move it forward more. If you take a torch to the x-member, you'll gain even more room.

Depending on how far forward the intake's back runners are, it may be able to work with little trouble.

Update: well, I took two steps backward and am still trying to get back to where I was three days ago....

1) I wasn't paying attention and plumbed the line lock to the rear brakes and the adjustable proportioning valve to the front brakes... that's been fixed now.
Lesson learned: PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT I'M DOING!!!

2) Today, I went to stab the engine and the front plate mounting holes weren't lining up. When I was welding on the x-member, I did a little more welding to the front plate brackets. Apparently, they moved a little... I cut one of the brackets out and have the engine back in the truck. Tomorrow, I'll weld the driver's side bracket in and redrill the holes.
Less learned: Don't drill the holes through the front plate and brackets until you're finished welding on all the brackets.

Have a good day!
Michael

thanks man. that helps alot. i have that pan now,but if i need more room maybe the stock ford pan for the late model 460 will help. great info. please keep the details and pics coming. i can't wait to see video of this beast in action. good luck with the build and thanks again.

OK, I stand corrected. My initial thoughts about the size of this engine bay were inaccurate. Just like my 96 Mustang, I had to relocate the radiator forwards a couple of inches to gain some electric fan to water pump clearance.

Here is what the OEM setup looked like. Notice the lower x-member and hood latch going down the center of the radiator opening.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation004.jpg

I cut the lower radiator x-member out so I could lower the radiator and push it forward (towards the front bumper).

I used 18 gauge, 1020CR for the new lower x-member. I bent all the pieces into a "C" with the open section pointing down. The smaller pieces were bent into a slightly smaller "C" so the longer piece would slip over the smaller ones. The longer piece bolts to the bottom of the radiator while the smaller pieces will be welded to the frame.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation006.jpg

24,000# GVW transmission cooler, Griffin 31"x19" w/ (2) 1.25" cores, and Derale (part #16927) electric fans. I made some small aluminum brackets to mount the electric fans. These brackets will work much better than the cheap-o zip ties that I used in the past. At the bottom of the radiator, you can see the lower radiator x-member. I used sway bar end link bushings to mount the radiator to the x-member.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation008.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation009.jpg

Pictures of the radiator mounted in the truck:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation010.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation011.jpg

When moving the radiator, I left room for an A/C condenser. Also, because of the radiator relocation, I had to modify to the hood latch by cutting and welding it a little bit.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-7RadiatorRelocation012.jpg

Next step is to mount the turbo and build the downpipe. At the same time I'm building the downpipe, I will be working on mounts for the alternator, p/s, and A/C. I'll be doing these parts together because the routing/mounting options for them is rather limited.

Have a good day!
Michael

That is some great looking fab work, nice job!!:D

I like your tunnel ram work bench, now THATS high performance!!:D

Bill

Nice :)

This is the coolest build I've seen in awhile, nice work!! Make sure to take some vids when its up and running!!

Alright guys, I have made a little progress...

I couldn't find a good spot in the engine bay for the turbo. I could have easily 'made it fit', but that wasn't what I wanted to do. I didn't want a maze of tubing making it difficult to work on the engine. Also, I was running into problems figuring out how to get the 5" downpipe out of the engine bay while leaving room for the x-over, oil filter, and other hotside tubing. I got some good suggestions from FACracr (Thanks Jeff!) that helped point me in a better direction.

Now that I finally have a good spot for the turbo, I started working on the hotside parts.

I will have 1.875" primaries leading to a 2.5" x-over. The two exhaust banks will merge into a 3" that connects to the T6 flange at the turbo. These pictures show the 3" going into the T6 flange at the turbo.

Everything unmodified:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing005.jpg

I cut two 3.5" slits 180* apart on the 3" tubing:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing006.jpg

Weld a little and work a little into place:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing007.jpg

One side done:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing008.jpg

Both sides done. You can see a gap on each side showing where the tubing had to be deformed to match up to the T6 flange.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing009.jpg

On each side, I cut some material to closely match the opening and welded it up.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing010.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing011.jpg

Then, I welded a bead around the inside of the flange to help fill in some of the voids (like bondo on bodywork). I intentionally built up the weld bead a little thick in the low spots so I didn't have to worry about grinding through the turbin or making a thin spot. I used a die grinder to get it all smooth.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing012.jpg

I'm pleased with how it turned out. Honestly, I'm surprised that nobody offers this type of part in a finished form. It would be simple enough for a sheetmetal shop to fab...

Here are a couple of pictures showing where and how the turbo is going to sit. It is near the tailshaft of the transmission. I figure it is ~12 - 14" further from the engine than an in-bumper mount setup. A benefit for this setup is my hotside and exhaust will have very few bends. The 5" leading out of the turbo will have five feet before it's first bend...

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing013.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-09-20HotsideTubing014.jpg

I am going to have some new header flanges made and start building my hotside leading to the turbo.

On an interesting side note, I was doing some internet 'research' and came across an engine build that's very similar to mine. It's a 501 BBF with A460 heads and a 0.580" lift hydraulic camshaft running pump gas (European, if it matters). On the dyno, it made over 1,400 hp @ 6,200 rpms!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wFuG6l0pDY&feature=channel

http://www.john-sleath.com/engine%20combo.htm
(The engine I'm talking about is titled, "Jon Hollingworth's twin turbo Big Block Ford".)

My engine will have a few more cubes. Otherwise, it's very close to my build. I'll attempt to find more information on that engine. Also, the camshaft specs don't look like a turbo cam to me. That is leaving a bit of hp on the table too.

Well, that's all for now.

Have a good day!
Michael

Sounds like a good idea Michael. Squires Turbo Sytems uses a similar set up on their systems. http://www.ststurbo.com/ They claim that with the correct housings lag is hardly noticable.

That flange looks good!!

Bill

looking good man. can't wait to see and hear this beast run.

Michael,

Looking good,my buddy just put a turbo on his 95 F-350 Dually with a 460 in it.He mounted it underneath on the passenger side.He did it so he would have more power for pulling his enclosed trailer.It came out really nice he made all the turbo tubing underneath and up to the throttle body,i could get some pics for ideas if you want.

Later Mark.

Michael,

Looking good,my buddy just put a turbo on his 95 F-350 Dually with a 460 in it.He mounted it underneath on the passenger side.He did it so he would have more power for pulling his enclosed trailer.It came out really nice he made all the turbo tubing underneath and up to the throttle body,i could get some pics for ideas if you want.

Later Mark.

Mark,

Sure, that would be great! I always like seeing how somebody else approached a similar problem :). I will PM you my email address.

Thanks,
Michael

I'm pleased with how it turned out. Honestly, I'm surprised that nobody offers this type of part in a finished form. It would be simple enough for a sheetmetal shop to fab...



Something like this:

http://www.detroitturbo.com/albums/album29/DSC_0130.thumb.jpg (http://www.detroitturbo.com/gallery/album29/DSC_0130)

That's a T3 flange adapter to bolt on a GT35R with a TiAL v-band housing.

It was a custom piece, and if we'd get enough interest in them or other similar type adapters I can have them CNC'd out of solid billet.

This turns into whether you want to spend $400-500 for a billet piece vs. fabbing one up. The benefit being its less prone to cracking if the adapter is supporting the full weight of the turbo.

cool build !

X2!!! very cool build. I can't wait untill its done and you make some passes.:D

How are you going to get the oil from the turbo back to the oil pan???

This is sweet! I like the concept. I have the oportunity to buy a Excursion with a blown V10 cheap and was thinking of sticking a BBF in it. You have inspired me!

Thanks for the cool comments guys! :D :D

How are you going to get the oil from the turbo back to the oil pan???

I'll fabricate a small sump (like a drag racing fuel cell) that has a pump attached to it (with a hose) like this:

http://www.weldonpumps.com/oem_pumps_by_style.htm

Another option is to go dry sump, but I don't think my build will get that :).

Have a good day!
Michael

any news?

any news?

I've done a couple things, but nothing too noteworthy... :(.

I bolted the T6 turbo flange to the turbocharger and spray painted it. Once the T6 flange was removed, I could see how much material needed to be removed to 'port match' the turbocharger and T6 flange.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18Openupturbo001.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18Opemupturbo002.jpg

In some areas, I removed ~0.200" of material. Now, everything matches up nicely.



I started looking at my header flanges. Since the plan for this engine build started off as a NA 572, I bought 2.25" flanges. With the turbo build, I am going to use 1.875" (1-7/8") primaries. Considering this, I didn't like the alignment between the exhaust ports and the header flanges. So, I had some new flanges cut. For the new flanges, I made the flanges' exhaust ports ~0.015" larger than the cylinder heads' exhaust ports. I am much happier with the layout of the new flanges.

The new flanges are at the top of the photograph while the old flanges at the bottom.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18A460HeaderFlangers001.jpg

I will 'merge' the 1.875" primaries to the flanges like I did with the (2) 3" tubes going into the T6 flange. Also, with the width of the engine bay, each primary tube will have at least 3 - 4 inches before turning down (good for air flow!).



Well, it's not much, but that's my update ;). I have put this truck on the sidelines so I can get me a 'fun' vehicle running real quick (All work and no play ==> :( :( ).

I've decided to keep my 96 Mustang (I was trying to sell it) and put a 2.3t in it. It shouldn't take long to get the car running and I think it'll help me stay more focused and motivated on the truck. Outside of the BBF Bash, my wife and I didn't go to a single drag strip this year :(.

I wish my BBF had that much extra room when I had it installed in this car!!!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/96%20Mustang/2300%20turbo%20swap/2009-10-18InitialMotorFitment007.jpg

I did not start a build thread on this board because it's not a BBF build (it's not even a V8 :) ). If somebody wants to follow it, I have a build thread on turboford.net:

http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=028151

Have a good day!
Michael

Thats a cool idea to port match.

Those flanges look great.

Bill

I've done a couple things, but nothing too noteworthy... :(.

I bolted the T6 turbo flange to the turbocharger and spray painted it. Once the T6 flange was removed, I could see how much material needed to be removed to 'port match' the turbocharger and T6 flange.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18Openupturbo001.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18Opemupturbo002.jpg

In some areas, I removed ~0.200" of material. Now, everything matches up nicely.



I started looking at my header flanges. Since the plan for this engine build started off as a NA 572, I bought 2.25" flanges. With the turbo build, I am going to use 1.875" (1-7/8") primaries. Considering this, I didn't like the alignment between the exhaust ports and the header flanges. So, I had some new flanges cut. For the new flanges, I made the flanges' exhaust ports ~0.015" larger than the cylinder heads' exhaust ports. I am much happier with the layout of the new flanges.

The new flanges are at the top of the photograph while the old flanges at the bottom.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-10-18A460HeaderFlangers001.jpg

I will 'merge' the 1.875" primaries to the flanges like I did with the (2) 3" tubes going into the T6 flange. Also, with the width of the engine bay, each primary tube will have at least 3 - 4 inches before turning down (good for air flow!).



Well, it's not much, but that's my update ;). I have put this truck on the sidelines so I can get me a 'fun' vehicle running real quick (All work and no play ==> :( :( ).

I've decided to keep my 96 Mustang (I was trying to sell it) and put a 2.3t in it. It shouldn't take long to get the car running and I think it'll help me stay more focused and motivated on the truck. Outside of the BBF Bash, my wife and I didn't go to a single drag strip this year :(.

I wish my BBF had that much extra room when I had it installed in this car!!!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/96%20Mustang/2300%20turbo%20swap/2009-10-18InitialMotorFitment007.jpg

I did not start a build thread on this board because it's not a BBF build (it's not even a V8 :) ). If somebody wants to follow it, I have a build thread on turboford.net:

http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=028151

Have a good day!
Michael

you gonna put a volvo head on that

you gonna put a volvo head on that

Right now, I'm just going to do a few simple mods to get it running (log header, turbo, FMIC, ect). A year or two down the road, when I'm finished with the 2003 F150 build, I'll look into it.

Have a good day!
Michael

Ok so you are a 17 yr old who has the experience of a house fly and you decide to change the tranny fluid in you C6 for your full size bronco. I mean you hydro-locked the motor mudding and ponding so the truck is all torn apart mind as well take the old fluid out of your transmission. I took every single bolt out of my tranny cover which I think is thirteen or, some quirky number and thought huh, pan no fall so I then proceded to get the biggest pry bar I could fit under my truck to brake the seal. Well I told my buddy just to close his eyes and roll out of the way because I knew some fluid would hit the ground.... Lets just say that my C6 was doing an impression of niagra Falls and My mother still berates me about how the drive way is offically two tone......

Tranny fluid is like red wine in moderation can be good for you.....

Ok so you are a 17 yr old who has the experience of a house fly and you decide to change the tranny fluid in you C6 for your full size bronco. I mean you hydro-locked the motor mudding and ponding so the truck is all torn apart mind as well take the old fluid out of your transmission. I took every single bolt out of my tranny cover which I think is thirteen or, some quirky number and thought huh, pan no fall so I then proceded to get the biggest pry bar I could fit under my truck to brake the seal. Well I told my buddy just to close his eyes and roll out of the way because I knew some fluid would hit the ground.... Lets just say that my C6 was doing an impression of niagra Falls and My mother still berates me about how the drive way is offically two tone......

Tranny fluid is like red wine in moderation can be good for you.....

Dude,WTF????:confused::confused::confused: wrong thread.

Okay, it's been a while since an update and I made some progress tonight.

A while back, I had some header flanges cut that match the port shape of the A460 heads (see pictures above in this thread). This evening, I started making my stubs for the headers. I'm going with 1.875" (1-7/8") primary tubes on my headers. This process was very similar to the T6 flange (seen elsewhere in this thread).

Cut a 2.5" long slit in the primary tube:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-12-16--HeaderTube001.jpg

Weld & form, weld & form, ect.... After that, I ran a weld along the inside of the flange & primary tube. This helps smooth the transition (once it's ground down) and I have read that welding the inside is better for headers.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-12-16--HeaderTube002.jpg

Cut a small piece of metal and fit it to the slot. Then, weld it up.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-12-16--HeaderTube004.jpg

With the die grinder, smooth everything up on the inside. Then, cut the stub to ~3.25" long. Once I cut the stub, I took another pass along the outside of the stub on a high heat setting. Finished product:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-12-16--HeaderTube005.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96Mustang460cid/2003%20F150%20Supercrew/2009-12-16--HeaderTube006.jpg

It may not be perfect, but I think it'll be much better than a round primary tube that doesn't come close to matching the exhaust port's CSA. Only thing left to do is to use the belt sander to ensure a flat mating surface. I'll do this seven more times... :).

Merry Christmas Guys!!!
Michael

Any thing new with your build Mike?:D

Any thing new with your build Mike?:D

Not too much has occurred. I have finished five of the eight stubs. The last three stubs are almost finished.

My wife is prego and has a very long to-do list for me around the house. I get in the garage when the boss allows me :).

Have a good day!
Michael