4 link

Would a 4-link or ladder bars be beneficial to a drag truck? Its a long bed truck. (Yes I am nuts, but I have always been different)

Used and setup properly it could definately be beneficial. Depending on the amount of power and weight you are going to run at.... you will want to assess what you need by that.

I think a 4 link would work best for a long box truck like that, you will need your I/C further forward than a ladder bar can, unless you custom make the ladder bars.

Bill

I have a friend that races a dodge longbed pickup.Weighs in at 3800pds has a very mild 440 with a four-link setup.He has been adjusting the suspension and has gotten it to repeat very well.Runs 11.80s

I have a 2003 F150 and have thought about the same thing. On NLOC (website for Lightning trucks), there are tons of guys running real fast with leaf springs and Caltracs or other bolt on traction devices.

Depending on how fast you're running, you may find that a well tuned leaf spring setup can accomplish your goals without the trouble and expense of a 3 or 4 link.

What's your current et/mph?

Have a good day!
Michael

I have a 2003 F150 and have thought about the same thing. On NLOC (website for Lightning trucks), there are tons of guys running real fast with leaf springs and Caltracs or other bolt on traction devices.

Depending on how fast you're running, you may find that a well tuned leaf spring setup can accomplish your goals without the trouble and expense of a 3 or 4 link.

What's your current et/mph?

Have a good day!
Michael

Engine is not even in it yet. I am just kicking some ideas around. :cool:

I have a 94 lightning (along with plenty of my buddies) I know they are not long beds but closer then a car to your application. I run a 4 link in my truck but almost all my buddies (ones with drag style fast trucks) run ladder bars. My truck 60's pretty well (in the low to mid 1.3 range) I think if it is going to see ANY street duty you would want a ladder bar over a 4 link. Also make sure the 4 link doesn't exclude you from any classes. I am in the process of actually changing my rear suspension over from the current 4 link to a ladder bar to fit the rules of a local 10.00 index class.

Either of the 2 setups are better then the stock rear suspension. You might be able to hook the truck from time to time on the stock suspension but there will be NO consistency.

Also by going to a ladder bar or 4 link you will be able to get a much larger tire under the truck. That will be most helpfull in trying to get it to hook!

Jamie

http://www.delvallo.net/gallery/data/507/Jamie_V_4-27-08_small.jpg

no one's gonna say it?
why back half/4 link/ladder bar anything?
MASSIVE TIRES!

that's just me though.

I have a 94 lightning (along with plenty of my buddies) I know they are not long beds but closer then a car to your application. I run a 4 link in my truck but almost all my buddies (ones with drag style fast trucks) run ladder bars. My truck 60's pretty well (in the low to mid 1.3 range) I think if it is going to see ANY street duty you would want a ladder bar over a 4 link. Also make sure the 4 link doesn't exclude you from any classes. I am in the process of actually changing my rear suspension over from the current 4 link to a ladder bar to fit the rules of a local 10.00 index class.

Either of the 2 setups are better then the stock rear suspension. You might be able to hook the truck from time to time on the stock suspension but there will be NO consistency.

Also by going to a ladder bar or 4 link you will be able to get a much larger tire under the truck. That will be most helpfull in trying to get it to hook!

Jamie

http://www.delvallo.net/gallery/data/507/Jamie_V_4-27-08_small.jpg

For streetability, why do you recommend the ladder bar setup over the 4 link? Also, what were your initial thoughts going from leaf spring to 4 link?

Facracr, leaf springs can easily be relocated to bigger tires. I wonder how much is gained with the tires versus the suspension setup.

Have a good day!
Michael

no one's gonna say it?
why back half/4 link/ladder bar anything?
MASSIVE TIRES!

that's just me though.


unless you plan for your tires to stick mostly out of your wheel well (which isn't allowed at the track) your plans won't work to well. You can only fit so big of a tire under the truck until it hits the leafs.



For streetability, why do you recommend the ladder bar setup over the 4 link? Also, what were your initial thoughts going from leaf spring to 4 link?

Facracr, leaf springs can easily be relocated to bigger tires. I wonder how much is gained with the tires versus the suspension setup.

Have a good day!
Michael


couple points/questions in one here.

first... a 4 link has 8 heim hoints always rotating (to some degree) a ladder bars back 4 heim joints never rotate because the bars are fixed together only the front 2 heim joints rotate. When street driving the road dust and grit gets into and ruins the heims. So with 8 vs 2 the ladder bars will be more solid during street driving.

second... leafs vs 4 link..... well unless your towing or something there isn't a comparison as far as hooking. Night and day.

third... suspension is huge vs tires. suspension is geometry tires are friction. I'll take a good suspension and skinny tires vs fat tires and leafs any day. Combine the two and you have traction.


It's just simple

good--stock suspension (with every traction advantage possible)
better-ladder bar suspension
best--4link

I have to disagree, ladder bars just aren't the best idea on the street IF the intent is to actually drive the car/truck on the street "hard" without having to think about how your driving it.

The fact that ladder bars don't allow hardly any body roll to happen (because they act like a giant anti-roll) is good for drag racing, but can cause big problems on a "true" street driven car. A given amount of body roll is needed to get into & out of steep driveways and parking lot entrances without worrying about bending some part of the rear suspension from diagonal loading corner to corner. Ladder bars should be fine on the street IF you intend to always be careful how & where you drive it. But a 4-link (without a rigid anti-roll) will be less worry some in this instance.

As far as "clean" rod-ends goes. In both the 4-link & ladder bar setup the metal rod-ends are the problem on the street & trying to keep them clean. "Squishy" Urethane "street rod" style rod-ends would be the best way to go on the street, but there not the best idea for strip use. The problem with building any true street AND strip vehicle is having to make compromises one direction or the other.


Now if we are talking about just a track only truck the question of ladder bars vs 4-link really can be a coin flip. Because of a trucks longer wheelbase, "packaging" the suspension (getting the components in there) doesn't really factor into the decision like it does on a small/short wheel base car. So on a truck the 2 basic general truths about LB vs 4-link are probably the deciding factor..........

Ladder bar = Simpler to install/adjust/tune. But has a smaller "adjustment window" to work with.

4-link w/anti-roll = Harder to install/adjust/tune. But has a much bigger "adjustment window" to work with.

I have to disagree, ladder bars just aren't the best idea on the street IF the intent is to actually drive the car/truck on the street "hard" without having to think about how your driving it.

The fact that ladder bars don't allow hardly any body roll to happen (because they act like a giant anti-roll) is good for drag racing, but can cause big problems on a "true" street driven car. A given amount of body roll is needed to get into & out of steep driveways and parking lot entrances without worrying about bending some part of the rear suspension from diagonal loading corner to corner. Ladder bars should be fine on the street IF you intend to always be careful how & where you drive it. But a 4-link (without a rigid anti-roll) will be less worry some in this instance.

As far as "clean" rod-ends goes. In both the 4-link & ladder bar setup the metal rod-ends are the problem on the street & trying to keep them clean. "Squishy" Urethane "street rod" style rod-ends would be the best way to go on the street, but there not the best idea for strip use. The problem with building any true street AND strip vehicle is having to make compromises one direction or the other.


Now if we are talking about just a track only truck the question of ladder bars vs 4-link really can be a coin flip. Because of a trucks longer wheelbase, "packaging" the suspension (getting the components in there) doesn't really factor into the decision like it does on a small/short wheel base car. So on a truck the 2 basic general truths about LB vs 4-link are probably the deciding factor..........

Ladder bar = Simpler to install/adjust/tune. But has a smaller "adjustment window" to work with.

4-link w/anti-roll = Harder to install/adjust/tune. But has a much bigger "adjustment window" to work with.

I think we agree on every point. I wasn't asked what the best suspension for the street was I was asked what was better for the street just between 4 link or ladder bar.

For streetability, why do you recommend the ladder bar setup over the 4 link?

Ladder bars can be much more compact than 4 links for the street also. As for body roll. I have had both and without an anti roll bar they both have just plenty of body roll (that won't be an issue trust me!)

It's like you say its a comprimise. You have to figure how much street time it will see and also what Kind of street duty it will see.

I guess I should have given more information about my intended use.

It will be a street/strip truck. Weekend use. No towing or stuff like that.

On the subject of classes, I have no clue what classes are out there for pickups.

Complete drag racing noob.

I had ladder bars on the street and when traveling on a new or smooth chunk of highway they were rock solid. Forget that when on a uneven section or bumpy. And it was in my mind, what has been written here on the limited rotation, was very carefull on drive ways etc. Then one rod end was trying to pull out so that was the end of them. Had no binding when put it all in and before removing leveled chassis and checked everything again, all was correct. Went to a four-link and have never looked back.

JMO