Opinions on fenderwell exit headers - street truck

What are the cons? Turning radius reduced?

I am thinking of the L&L's on my 79 F250 - mild 429 street truck


Currently run a 37x12.50 with the tires right out at the edge of the fenders...to give as much room as possible between the tire and the frame rail.

There isn't really anything wrong with it. When considering headers you need to keep a few things in mind.

1. Ford head designs prefer for the tube to come out as straight from the chamber as possible before making a turn.
2. Be sure that all header tubes are equal length. If you have step tube headers, this means each step should be equal length also from tube to tube.
3. The less bends you make the better.


On a street truck, I would run a conventional style header, with something like an 8" or 10" glasspack...

I've never run fenderwell headers but depending on your primary pipe size requirements you could try the Stan's Tri-y's. I'm very pleased with the fit and finish, it also allows an H pipe and I used Magnaflows which were a night and day difference over the same size flowmasters.

i use these on my 79 bronco.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-86651/?image=large

i don't know how they will work with a leaf spring set up but i would think that would just make for more room than the coil spring front end.i have 35 13.50's with a sagged out 6" lift.

L & L are expensive, but well worth the money. Mine fit great, sounded good, and they've held up well in the past 9 years. They still look new. The only thing about fender well exits on the road is when tar flies up from the road and melts to them. It's a real bitch to try to get it off.

i used to run the L & L's. they are a nice header but are only 1 3/4" with 3" collector. they would also be a good choice for the OP's 429 but are too small for bigger engines.

I ran the L&Ls, very good quality header, best ones to get for a DD with not a huge amount of cubes. They look great and are tough as nails. My only issue was the primary size, I needed something bigger so I went to the Maddogs. Same design but in a 2" primary with 3.5" collector. The issue I do have with them is when I'm mud racing, theres alot of room for mud to fly up into the engine compartment and it sure makes a mess of thing under there. I did have to go with some offset rims so that the tires wouldnt rub the headers though (6" lift, 39.5x18 boggers on '79 F250)

Ya mud freak I saw teh pic of your truck in the other thread and was going to pm you, but figured I might as well just make a post.


Reason I want fenderwells is clearance around the z-bar and clutch fork (4-speed) and better routing for the exhaust.

Since it's only 429 cubes and modest rpm range, I thinik the 1.75 will be just what the doctor ordered.

It's good to hear that the L&L's are built well/durable.


Anyone else advise against teh fenderwells because of steering or installation issues?

Thanks for the comments so far.

If you decide to go with between the chassis headers I've got a set of Stans Tri-Ys for 200.00
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/3738/digger023.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/digger023.jpg/)

I used the headman hustler out of frame with 1 7/8 primary tube ran them for years with a 76 ford f 150 with 6"lift with 35x12.5 tires..no problems..but i dont know how they work with leaf spring in the front..if thats wut u have

The biggest adantage of fenderwell headers is there is no exhaust routed under the truck. Makes it alot nicer working on stuff under the truck. I had L&L's on one of my trucks with 3"x36" glasspacks and 3" pipe run down the outside of the frame rails turned out in front of the tires. It had a DEEP tone and would really talk to you when got on it or just hit a hill. You could give people an ear full when passing a car with their window down.LOL!!!

Dennis

I like the maddawgs personally, there are really good header, with the bigger tubes then the L&L, and they are also less expensive then the L&L. MY dad runs the mad Dawgs on his truck, and I just got a set for my mine for when i get my stroker motor button up.

HE is currently runing a 468 in his truck ( BLue and silver ), then the other one is mine, and im buildinga 501 full roller big block for it.

I forgot to mention he is running a 38.5x15.50x16.5 boggers on 12 inch wide wheels and the only time the tires rub is at full crank of the wheel, so we just adjusted the bump stops in a few turns.

I like the Maddogs or the Hedman Husler, I think either one would work for your truck. It does make exhaust work and installation a ton easier, and I always felt possibly could flow better too.

IF teh maddogs hang as low as seen in Injected79's dad's truck, I'm not a fan.....

Don't the L&L's tuck up higher and closer to the cab mount than that?

with fenderwells, tire size, lift etc.. depending, you may want to set your turn stops out so you dont tag them when you turn sharp.

IF teh maddogs hang as low as seen in Injected79's dad's truck, I'm not a fan.....

Don't the L&L's tuck up higher and closer to the cab mount than that?

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/jstanek/100_0128.jpg

heres my truck with the headman hustler they tuck up nice i think.. i hopes this helps..Jordan

Jordan,

Thanks for posting that pic...those do look to tuck up nicely.

Are you using purchased motor mounts, or custom ones that you made?

I did use oem mounts but i kept riping the driver side so i mademy own with 3/8" plate and 1/2" thick rubber belting for some padding.. they will never rip out again :) ...Jordan

THe truck has a 3" body lift on it, sorry i didnt mention that before but thats why they look like they hang so low.,they auctually tuck up to tight, we had to cut a 2 inch notch or so into the body mount so they would clear.

I did use oem mounts but i kept riping the driver side so i mademy own with 3/8" plate and 1/2" thick rubber belting for some padding.. they will never rip out again :) ...Jordan

do you have the mount on the driver side of the transfer case?

do you have the mount on the driver side of the transfer case?
ummm i dont know what u mean :confused:

If you decide to go with between the chassis headers I've got a set of Stans Tri-Ys for 200.00
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/3738/digger023.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/digger023.jpg/)

Tried to PM you about these headers, but wouldn't go through. Can you PM me, I want these. Thanks. Sorry about the hijack OP.

ummm i dont know what u mean :confused:

there is a mount that goes from the drivers side of the t-case to the frame.if this isn't on there it allows the engine to torque up on the motor mount alot. i left it off once and the engine would lift up on the driver side quite a ways. i can see where this would ruin the motor mount and thought this possibly is why you ruined a couple, if the t-case mount was not on there.

there is a mount that goes from the drivers side of the t-case to the frame.if this isn't on there it allows the engine to torque up on the motor mount alot. i left it off once and the engine would lift up on the driver side quite a ways. i can see where this would ruin the motor mount and thought this possibly is why you ruined a couple, if the t-case mount was not on there.

ohhh duh ..ya that mount was there but if i do recall i think it was shot though i never really thought of that i bet ya thats wut the prob was.......now i dont have to worrie cause i am gettin a profab drop box with a profab reverser..:D where in mich are u Norm???

where in mich are u Norm???

greenville, about a 1/2 hour north east of grand rapids.

I have the Maddogs on my 93F150. There definatly a tight fit! I wanted the larger tubes as well. Those L&Ls are nice, pricy and Smaller. they do come highly reccomended though. Im sure the Ceramic coating adds a couple hundread to the cost. I buy mine non coated and have a local shop coat my stuff. Cost me about 75.00 to get my mad dogs coated silver.

I also have the heddman fenderwells. 2" primary with a 3.5" collector. I would have to echo both Cale and Dennis. Fender headers are awesome because they leave so much room under the truck. It's a lot easier to do starter work and clutch adjusting. My 35 inch balonies rub slightly at full lock, but you wouldn't know it except for the witness marks.

-Jared

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x237/deluxetruck/DSC01642.jpg

stahl make a real nice fenderwell exit header i cant remember if there 2" or 2 1/8 but have a 4" collector but there bout $850 new

They are ideal for keeping HEAT away from the trans. I, personally won't run anything else! I buy the J-bends and make my own! No problem with fit. If you don't have the capabilities if making your own I'd use the L&L's or the HEDDMAN's.