Help stop the wheelies

Fans in the stands tell me its cool but I hate it. I feel I'm wasting a good bit of energy doing it. Full ms tube chassis. qa2 coil overs on all 4 coners.

4 link suspension. Off nitrous the car launches fine with a little front end lift off the ground. On 300hp shot of nitrous the car launches to the moon and I hate it. I launch 1000 rpm off the full stall. I do have wheelie bars and there set 5" off the ground. I've made quite a few adjustments with the 4 link and moved the IC way out front and low.

I can't drop the bottom bars any farther. I've got 2 holes on the axle to drop the top bars and one more hole in the front top bars to drop.

Help me calm my car.

Thanks

Shouldnt you be raising the top bars in the front, lowering them at the rear of bar? Keep the lower bars as close to level as possible till you get the top worked out.

I'll drop the top bars in the back and give it a shot. Thanks

I would like to see pictures of the maverick. I have one with a 532 eldebrock heads. This is my little woman's car and she leaves without a trans brake with a 1.22 60ft pulls the wheels about 1 inch high and e.ts 5.71 on 110 gas.

I have the 4-link wizard program and could guide you in the right direction.

606-260-0103
Adrian

I would like to see pictures of the maverick. I have one with a 532 eldebrock heads. This is my little woman's car and she leaves without a trans brake with a 1.22 60ft pulls the wheels about 1 inch high and e.ts 5.71 on 110 gas.

I have the 4-link wizard program and could guide you in the right direction.

606-260-0103
Adrian

Sent you a pm

The correct way is to limit front suspension/and or add weight to the nose.............changing 4 link may help a bit, but the inevitable will still happen......

The correct way is to limit front suspension/and or add weight to the nose.............changing 4 link may help a bit, but the inevitable will still happen......X100

get a progressive controller and come out with less and then pour it on...

get a progressive controller and come out with less and then pour it on...

I've got one. I use to have a Galaxie with a 9" slick on it and had to use a controller.

I should be able to adjust out the big wheelie with the rear suspension. After all that's why it's in there.

You didn't mention if the rear QA-1 coil overs were single adjustable valving or double adjustable's. Or how tight/loose the valving knob(s) was clicked. You also didn't mention how high/low/forward/back the engine was mounted in the chassis.

If you have been trying to calm the initial hit only with the I/C length, and forgetting to also factor in how the rear shock valving effects the speed of the hit from a I/C point, that's only half the battle. They both effect the rear suspension, and both must be factored together (and adjusted together). Using just one to do the whole job is drastically reducing the size of any cars rear suspension adjustment window. The I/C placement controls the total amount of possible suspension separation leverage/energy that can be applied at the initial hit, and is the rough/course side of the rear suspension adjustment. Shock extension valving controls the "speed" at which that total amount of separation leveraged energy is applied, and is the fine tuning side of the adjustment window.

If the car was built with too much engine height & setback for the amount of "at launch" torque you have, it might be quite a job to calm everything down. You might have to look at combining some/all of the assorted ways of calming the initial hit & recovery period of the launch, (long-low I/C, tighter rear shock extension valving, tighter front valving + limiters, bigger slick/more sidewall, less rear gear, if you have a 3 speed switch to a 2 speed, less launch timing, etc, etc, etc.

get a progressive controller and come out with less and then pour it on...

You didn't mention if the rear QA-1 coil overs were single adjustable valving or double adjustable's. Or how tight/loose the valving knob(s) was clicked. You also didn't mention how high/low/forward/back the engine was mounted in the chassis.

If you have been trying to calm the initial hit only with the I/C length, and forgetting to also factor in how the rear shock valving effects the speed of the hit from a I/C point, that's only half the battle. They both effect the rear suspension, and both must be factored together (and adjusted together). Using just one to do the whole job is drastically reducing the size of any cars rear suspension adjustment window. The I/C placement controls the total amount of possible suspension separation leverage/energy that can be applied at the initial hit, and is the rough/course side of the rear suspension adjustment. Shock extension valving controls the "speed" at which that total amount of separation leveraged energy is applied, and is the fine tuning side of the adjustment window.

If the car was built with too much engine height & setback for the amount of "at launch" torque you have, it might be quite a job to calm everything down. You might have to look at combining some/all of the assorted ways of calming the initial hit & recovery period of the launch, (long-low I/C, tighter rear shock extension valving, tighter front valving + limiters, bigger slick/more sidewall, less rear gear, if you have a 3 speed switch to a 2 speed, less launch timing, etc, etc, etc.

Lots to think about. Qa1's are single adjustable set 6 from the left. I don't know if this tells you enough about the height but the cam is as 19" and the motor is set back.

I'm already running Stiff sidwall with tubes 32 x 14 slicks, PG Tranny 1.8 first and 4.33 rear gears.

Thanks for the insight.