transfer case swap

Would an NP205 from a 78-79 truck bolt onto the back of the C6 in my 86 F250? I think my current case is that Borg-Warner 13-something or other. Maybe even a 208 from a earlier-80's F series? I'm almost ready to roll the beast out of the garage with its new 429, and it occurred to me that when I last ran it, while doing my redneck 4wd landscaping, I had a particualr bush that wasn't coming out with a static pull (not enough traction, the grass was wet). So, against my better judgement - but much to the audience's delight - I performed several slack-chain jerks that then made every u-joint pop and groan in disgust. As I backed into the garage with 3 cylinders no longer firing, it sounded like a 95 decibel bowl of Rice Krispies, and the transfer case has drips of ATF hanging off of it. My plan is to put new u-joints in the front axle and the front driveshaft (one of the two by the 'case is super tight), but I think it might behoove me to have a spare case on the shelf in case things go bad this winter. And I'd much rather have a 205 than the alternatives. I bet a 208 is no better or worse than the BW.

Yeah, I finally DID get that shrub out. It wasn't one of my finer moments, but my three year old daughter sure thinks "Rusty" is the coolest truck around.

Yes it should bolt right up, we put one in my brothers 84 with a np435 but I belive all the transfer cases have the same bolt pattern. You'll just have to built the side mount that goes to the frame to help support the extra weight.

Yes it should bolt right up, we put one in my brothers 84 with a np435 but I belive all the transfer cases have the same bolt pattern. You'll just have to built the side mount that goes to the frame to help support the extra weight.

Yes it will bolt right up. I replaced the BW 1356 in my 91 a while back. I had to modify my shift linkage a little but that was pretty easy.

As for the bushes.......I removed some this spring with a 1991 3/4 ton chevy. Only because it was full of fire wood and had the weight. After two slack chain jerks, I went and got the backhoe. One to remove the last bush, and two to push the chevy back in the barn to be fixed, lol! :D

Cool! Yeah, the bad part is, that 205 is so heavy. Good to know it'll go right in there, though (aside from teh inevitable mounting stuff).

Thanks,
Pete

I have done this exact swap. Yes, the 205 will bolt right up, but you need need the 205 spacer because it is iron to hold the extra weight and because it has notch in it for the one of the shift rods. I know that there is a misconception that the 205 is stronger, but the reality is that it isn't. The output shaft on a 1345 (what you probably have now) is a little larger in diameter and a little stronger over all. Also if you put too much torque to the low side of the 205 the snap ring will pop out allowing the bearings holding the big gear to come out. Or, it will push the bearing out and break the retainer.
Now granted, I'm abusing a 205 much more than the average guy would, I have seen all this stuff happen with motors that are much lower in power than mine.
If you can find a 1356 tcase, then I'd go with that OR one of the 272 tcases found in the newer diesels. They can take a serious amount of abuse.

correct me if i'm wrong but I think you need the longer of the two output shafts "there are two for the 4x4 c6" and the 205 adapter. one is about 15 1/2" long over all and one is about 18 1/2" long.I've had this problem before! any body have a 18 1/2 " shaft for sale?

There is also a long and a short adapter. My C6 had the short adapter. So just make sure you measure the adapter you have so that you get the right iron version.

You'll also be losing some serious reduction. so hopefully you have enough gear in the diffs. 2.62?:1, to 1.98:1

I've always heard the big knock on the 205 was its high-ish low range, but my thought on that was if you've got enough under your right foot, you shouldn't need a lot of reduction in the case. Granted, I'm not rock-crawling, or any type of extreme 4x4-ing......I've got an old plow truck. I have swapped in 4.10 axles (D50TTB, but better than the D44TTB it replaced!!) and 285-75-16 E range BFG AT's, so I'm pretty mild. I'd like to step up to a 4.56 Dana 60/Dana 70 combo and 35's at some point, when the plow comes off for good.

That 272 is magnesium cased, isn't it? I'd love to come across one at the boneyard. I heard they torque-rate them WAY higher than the vaunted 205's.

Forget about a 70 rear and use a Sterling/Ford 10.25. They are cheaper to come across and are as strong as a 14 bolt chevy. I used one in my puller for 3 seasons before going bigger due to a serious upgrade in the motor. However, I am starting on a street "stock" puller/play toy and it will have the 10.25 under it. BTW, the 10.25 that I pulled with was under the truck when I started pulling with it, and it had 170000 miles on it. All I did was swap the ring and pinion and lincoln lock the differential and put it back under the truck.

IMHO, leave the 1345 in and forget the 205. If you need parts for your 1345, let me know.