New to pulling/ 1st serious engine build

Im building an engine to pull with, ive already got it strippd and know what i need, but would like input and and constructive criticisum is welcomed, 950 cfm holley carb
edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake
tfs street heads w/polished chambers
ford racing roller rockers
comp cam 64-652-5
SCAT h-beam rods
high vol. oil pump
deepened oil pan

4130.93$ is my projected cost for this engine give or take a little bit.
I am a self taught mechanic and a whole lot younger than most of you but thats why i askd for the critiqueing. thanks.

550-575 hp

what are the class limitations in your projected class??
i get the feeling this is an entry level type of engine....usually an Iron head rule...
is this 4x4, 2wd, or tractor?

4x4 pro stock
i can run pro street and save 2k on heads by having the oem heads machined and bored but will i still be able to run a oversized dished piston with the oem heads?

Need to know what set of rules you will have to follow. Pro stock has tons of different rules from place to place.

rules for pro stock,


1. 1. Any truck body, any frame, and any automotive-type V-8 engine.

2. Any single 4 barrel carburetor. No stretched carburetors. No tunnel rams. No sheet
metal intakes.

3. Engine must not exceed 485 c.i., cast iron blocks only. Aluminum heads will be
Allowed. No spreadports and must be stock configured. Only heads that will accept a stock intake manifold and stock configured intake gasket with no adapters are allowed. Roller cams, lifters and roller rockers allowed. Other internal modifications may be made. Titanium valves and rods allowed. Mushroom lifters allowed. Engine can be no further forward than 12 inches from front of block saver plate to center of front axle housing.

4. Headers and open exhaust allowed, must exit through hood or down and back, parallel to
the ground.



5. Body Specifications:
a. Factory wheelbase may be shortened or lengthened to maximum 134 inches.
Bedsides may be altered in front of wheel wells to match wheelbase on all trucks.
b. Rear wheel width cannot be narrower than 34 inches from inside bead to inside
Bead of rear wheels.
c. OEM fiberglass components only.
d. Front windshield must be OEM type. (No plexiglass)
e. If vehicle has a bed that has been cut out, the bed must be covered. If vinyl, the cover is to be attached with snaps or Velcro. If sheet metal, cover is to be attached by pop rivets or screws.



6. No working hydraulic stops on front suspension during pull. Must have quick dis-
connect and shall not be touching spring or axle housing before, during, or after pull. Front air bag suspension is allowed, but all controls and valves MUST be outside of the cab. Weight boxes must stay stationary before crossing the scales and cannont be moved until after the pull is over. Any air pressure adjustments require a remeasurement of hitch height.

7. Any street legal tire may be run measuring up to or less than 33 inch measured height.
Terra and Cepek tires allowed along with any bar tire up to 31 x 15.50 x 15. No recapped tires allowed.

8. Any transmission, transfer case, front end or rear end allowed. No plantetaries.





9. From point of hitch to center of rear axle shall be no less than 36% of truck wheelbase,
i.e., 134 inch wheel base equals 48.24 inch hitch length. Hitch heights to be 26 inches, before, during and after pull. Hitch must also adhere to general and safety rules. Hitch is to be no more than 6 inches from hitching point. No drawbars greater than the angle of the sled chain. (Acceptable angle: 0 degrees to maximum 33 degrees).

10. All Pro Stock trucks are to have adequate working front brakes, drive shaft brakes are
Adequate.

11. Pro Stock 4x4 may run either gasoline or alcohol fuels.

12. All 4WD weights must be safely secured to the vehicle and not extend forward more
than 60 inches from the centerline of the front axle. (weights included) Weight bracket
is not to extend more than 7 foot at its widest point.

13. Overall, vehicles must adhere to all general and safety rules applicable to 4x4 trucks.
Refer to General and Safety Rules section.

how can i make the combustion chambers on the stock heads 72 cc's?

By shaving the heads. What organization are you going to run with?

Do you have the flow numbers of the heads? IMHO, you need a dominator and a victor and plan on running alcohol. I couldn't find specs on that cam, so please post them. Also, if you intend to be competitive, you need to be prepared to let that motor turn 8000rpm or higher, which means serious components and superior engine assembly to be competitive and I don't see that happening for $4000. Don't go cheap what ever you do, it will cost you more in the long run!


Alan

4x4 pro stock
i can run pro street and save 2k on heads by having the oem heads machined and bored but will i still be able to run a oversized dished piston with the oem heads?

Yes you can run over sized pistons with oem heads, I'm running a .040 over bore with D0Oe-r heads.

If your going to be competitive in any pulling class other than pure stock, you need flat or domed pistons getting you into at least the 13:1 compression area, and a motor build that will get you into the 8000rpm range. Your bottom end should be forged pistons, forged or billet crank, billet rods, solid roller cam and a Kaase oil pump. Your top end needs to have titanium valves if going over 8200rpm, and bronze guides installed, full roller rockers, titanium retainers/locks, full ported heads and the list goes on.

Don't mean to bust your bubble, but this is what it takes to be competitive, and you'll be money ahead if you build it right the first time. (unlike me who didn't have anyone to tell me this stuff when I started)

I agree with Alan, however I'm gonna go out on a limb and say, if you want to be competitave, go with TFS streets with the New TFS single plane intake, or FRPP SCJ heads, with a VIctor. The rules for the heads is kind of wishy washy. sounds like a chevy head rule. Want stock port entry's but say nothing of valve locations, or pierce points/angles (thats where the FRPP's could benefit you)
If you're not concerned about being competitave, stay with your Iron heads, and get your driveline worked out. Thats Really the part thats going to take the most work IMHO. Power changes things, but you can get it in the ballpark for when you make the jump to a more competitave engine.
I'd also make sure to run fenderwell's, or puller headers, it'll benefit you over chassiz exit headers.

Edit, i just read you listed your projected cost. Is this your budget as well??
Dont even look at going the Aluminum route with a small budget. Make sure you have a sound bottom end first.

I agree with Alan, however I'm gonna go out on a limb and say, if you want to be competitave, go with TFS streets with the New TFS single plane intake, or FRPP SCJ heads, with a VIctor. The rules for the heads is kind of wishy washy. sounds like a chevy head rule. Want stock port entry's but say nothing of valve locations, or pierce points/angles (thats where the FRPP's could benefit you)
If you're not concerned about being competitave, stay with your Iron heads, and get your driveline worked out. Thats Really the part thats going to take the most work IMHO. Power changes things, but you can get it in the ballpark for when you make the jump to a more competitave engine.
I'd also make sure to run fenderwell's, or puller headers, it'll benefit you over chassiz exit headers.

Edit, i just read you listed your projected cost. Is this your budget as well??
Dont even look at going the Aluminum route with a small budget. Make sure you have a sound bottom end first.

Is the new TFS intake out, I didn't think it would be out until next year? I agree, power does change things. It will point out the weak links in the drive train and will change the setup. I just think your money ahead to save a little longer to build it right the first time. Since you can run aluminum heads I wouldn't even fool with iron heads because it's cheaper to go aluminum than to make iron heads flow. Plus, aluminum can be repaired, iron cannot.

i was hoping to save some money on the engine by gearing the truck with 5:88's.

what do you have for a chassiz/setup, and whats your budget.
Sorry, We can really help you if we know what you got to work with.

If there is a lower class to enter, that may be worth looking into, as it costs money to play.

from the info given so far, i'd say dont bother with 5.88 gears, with low horsepower you pretty much end up in the same spot on the track when all is said and done. More revs, but at the expense of wheel speed.

Is the new TFS intake out, I didn't think it would be out until next year? I agree, power does change things. It will point out the weak links in the drive train and will change the setup. I just think your money ahead to save a little longer to build it right the first time. Since you can run aluminum heads I wouldn't even fool with iron heads because it's cheaper to go aluminum than to make iron heads flow. Plus, aluminum can be repaired, iron cannot.

Youre right about max effort iron being expensive, but i was meaning a basic head job with some home porting to save money..

its a 77 f250 frame and body, 460, np435 tranny, np 203 transfer. I figured this setup would get me to 550 hp which is enough to pull and into the 6500-7000 rpm range

what do you have for a chassiz/setup, and whats your budget.
Sorry, We can really help you if we know what you got to work with.

If there is a lower class to enter, that may be worth looking into, as it costs money to play.

from the info given so far, i'd say dont bother with 5.88 gears, with low horsepower you pretty much end up in the same spot on the track when all is said and done. More revs, but at the expense of wheel speed.

X2

its a 77 f250 frame and body, 460, np435 tranny, np 203 transfer. I figured this setup would get me to 550 hp which is enough to pull and into the 6500-7000 rpm range

R u sure on the tcase? 77 should be a 205 divorced. With the 205's, look for the dodge output shaft, and make a collar that slides over the retainer ring that holds the low side gear on the output shaft and tack weld it in place. Trust me, it will save you a bunch of headaches.

The 203 came in the full time trucks in the 70's

Those are the rules we have here in KY and you should go with he a style heads. Trucks in this area are making 850 to 1000 hp. Where are you located?

Theres no way you can bend the meaning of the rules around enough to sneak in A heads.
And no way you can run A heads on a tight budget.

The head rule as posted

. Engine must not exceed 485 c.i., cast iron blocks only. Aluminum heads will be
Allowed. No spreadports and must be stock configured. Only heads that will accept a stock intake manifold and stock configured intake gasket with no adapters are allowed. Roller cams, lifters and roller rockers allowed. Other internal modifications may be made. Titanium valves and rods allowed. Mushroom lifters allowed. Engine can be no further forward than 12 inches from front of block saver plate to center of front axle housing.

That is what 90% of the rules for pro stock read and allow a heads.

Doesn't A heads accept oem intakes?

No the stock intake doesnt fit A heads without adaptor plates.
If they allow A heads with those rules what are they allowing the GM guys to do? doesnt make any sense to me.

That is how ken ten rules are exactly wrote and there is trucks running A heads and the chevys are running 18* heads.