comp cams extreme cams

aaaaaanyone every used the extreme cams. i have a 460 in a 77 250 highboy that i just bought and am going to start bogging again after 24yrs out of it.was thinking of going with the extreme series for right now while i build a 520. don't want to go to radical on this motor, it has a holley 750 vac. secondarys on a weiand stealth intake. it seems to b a strong motor. also going to add headers over the winter

I used the xtreme 4x4 comp cam #34-239-4 in my 468, it seemed to work fine, made decent power. I had it up to 475HP on a set of DOVE-C heads, streetable, used it on trail rides a few times and did alot of mud bog racing with it. I was running a 800AVS carb, headers, wieand stealth intake, with 10.5:1 compression. No complaints here.

thanks i've got the d3 heads, but u knw how it is always want more power.lol i was also thinking of going on and putting some heads on it but i dont want to have to buy a set for this engine then another set for my 520.

thanks i've got the d3 heads, but u knw how it is always want more power.lol i was also thinking of going on and putting some heads on it but i dont want to have to buy a set for this engine then another set for my 520.

You can get some power out of them heads. Get rid of the smog bumps or whatever (Someone told me this) and get some good pistons.

Thanks for the reply but i didnt really want to get that deep into this engine, just need something above stock right now. My main focus right now is going to b my drivetrain. Thats where i'm going to put my major money other than headers and a cam. Of course its all major

The Comp Xtreme 4x4 cams are good off the shelf hydraulic cams and will work good for you. Just make sure not to get too big of a lift or you will not only need upgraded springs but machine work on your heads. If it's stump pulling off idle torque you want, look into the Xtreme Marine series cams. Yes, I know they are for boats, but they work great in the mud to get that instant wheel speed for the bogs. I ran a XM270h cam last year and it ran great. I'm switching my whole combo this winter, so who knows what I'll run next year, probably solid roller.

Another option for you is to get with Lem Evans and see if he still has any of the Ford A443 cams left in stock.

Sounds good. I was also thinking while i was changing out cams and had radiator out i would like to move it to the bed. Any ideas

Mine is in the bed because it's hard to stuff a 460 into a ranger! Find you a good aluminum radiator to keep the weight down and make up a good solid mount with dual electric fans to keep it cool. I mounted mine up high on the roll bar and also put my trans coolers on the rad. The 2 14" fans do more than enough to keep everything cool. For plumbing I run 1 1/2" copper tube down each frame rail and convert to hose on each end for body/chassis flex. Heres a pic as I was putting it together with the old stock radiator:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/skjett/Trucks/Ranger/build%20pics/101_1927.jpg

Sounds good. I was also thinking while i was changing out cams and had radiator out i would like to move it to the bed. Any ideas

Use an electric water pump and fans, this way if the engine gets hot you can shut it off and leave the pump/fans on to cool it down in minutes. I used 12 feet of steel core radiator hose rather then exhaust tubing like alot of other guys do. Works fine and you don't need a tube bender!!
Getting air out of the system is a PITA, but once its out, it cools just fine in my truck.
I am running a 532ci BBF, griffin aluminum rad with flex-a-lite fans and a CSR elec. water pump. 165* thermostat.

Forgot to add I'm running a stock style water pump with Moroso electric pump drive setup and no thermostat. To get the water out of the system, make sure your themostat housing is the one with the plug in it. Leave the plug out while you are filling the system and when you get water flowing out, put the plug in. Then with the electric pump setup, turn the pump on and finish filling the system. It will get all of the air out quickly! My water pump setup:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/skjett/Trucks/Ranger/build%20pics/101_1899.jpg

Thanks guys and thanks Mud FReak 4 steering me to this website its been alot of help. One more ? are ya'll running pushers r pullers for the fans?

Thanks guys and thanks Mud FReak 4 steering me to this website its been alot of help. One more ? are ya'll running pushers r pullers for the fans?

No problem!! I'm running pullers, I don't think it matters much when the rad is in the bed, not much air circulation back there anyhow.

I'm running pullers too, but I gotta tell you, with the way they are mounted and no rear window, it gets HOT in the cab!

I'm running pullers too, but I gotta tell you, with the way they are mounted and no rear window, it gets HOT in the cab!

HAHA yeah I guess!! Mine are on the other side of the rad so they pull away from the cab.

Hey Mud Freak did u run ur plumbing down both frame rails also

Hey Mud Freak did u run ur plumbing down both frame rails also

No they're both down the passenger side. The CSR pump has the option for either side being the lower rad hose inlet and since the driveshaft etc is on the driver side I figured it would be easier to have it all on the one side. Works ok, kind of a pain if you gotta change out the starter, but not too bad.

hey mud where did you find this 12 feet of steel core radiator hose

hey mud where did you find this 12 feet of steel core radiator hose

A local shop in my town had them, apparently some water trucks use them for rad hoses, not sure how or why??

we use 11/2 to 3 inch water pumps at work and the hose they get for them is made by goodyear and it has steel coil in it. wonder if thats somewhat the same. i know its some heavy and tough stuff

we use 11/2 to 3 inch water pumps at work and the hose they get for them is made by goodyear and it has steel coil in it. wonder if thats somewhat the same. i know its some heavy and tough stuff

Yeah thats probably the same stuff.

hey i found a place that sells radiator hose in 12 ft lenths online its ace hose& rubber company for any of u that would like 2 know

my only concern with plain rubber hose for the length it takes to go to the rear, it leaves a lot of areas where something could nick it. Plus if the suction hose doesn't have the spring wound on the inside, you leave the possibility of it sucking closed after it gets hot.

this is 3ply with wire inside. its made for heavy duty radiator applications

Ah, then it's all good then

I ran mine down the pass. side, under the frame motor mount and inside of the frame rail, nothing on the truck can get at it as far as cutting the line. I was going to put one on the driver side but with the driveshaft and steering box etc. it just looked like more space on the pass. side.

there are a lot of custom cam builders out there that can build a cam when you build your 520 as far as the heads go i would not put any thing after 71 d1ve heads 72 and above are smogers. and do grind the bump out of the exhaust do dont take out to much you can grind in to the water jacket

I have a Comp Cam PN 34-336-4 that I have been thinking about putting in mine.
(Specs: range 2500 to 6500, 292 IN., 292 EX., 244 IN. dur @ .050 lift, 244 EX. @ .050 lift, .560 IN., .560 EX lift, 110°)

What do ya'll think about this cam? The motor is a stock '78 460, with Edlebrock 750 and torker on it right now. I have a set a mild ported heads (need to check the castings) and thinking about a stealth.

Will this even work with this setup or is this cam too radical?

Thanks!