Rear mounted radiator.

Looking for pics. Also looking for ideas on lines from the engine to the radiator. Any kind of rubber hose that will work? Any ideas on line sizing?

I haven't done this yet but there r some guys on here that have and from what i've read they use 1 1/2 copper pipe or exhaust pipe or radiator hose. I found a place on internet that sells radiator hose in 12ft lengths. its heavy duty with wire inside. the company is called Ace hose & rubber co.

While that place does have exactly what I want, its out of my price range. 12' of 1.5 and 12' of 1.75 was over $300.

stainless exhaust pipe will work the best under neath of the truck, but going upward and downward 1.5 hose should be good. at the shop i work at we have some 1.5'' gates hose that you can pretty much bend and twist which ever way possible...that i might use some day. lol

Mine is in the bed of my ranger, and I used 1.5" copper tube, sweating in the 45's and 90's as needed. I put the suction side down the driver side frame rail and the return down the passenger side. I put it up high on the factory roll bar to be able to wash the mud from under it. I run 2 14" electric fans to keep it cool, and have 2 tranny coolers mounted to the top side. Here's a pic when it was being put in with the factory F-350 radiataor. This winter, it's all coming out for a new cage and aluminum radiator.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/skjett/Trucks/Ranger/build%20pics/101_1927.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/skjett/Trucks/Ranger/build%20pics/IMG00018-20090311-1328.jpg

I used the hose front to back, but mine wasnt as expensive, I think it was around 80 each, 12 foot length.

Not very good pics but kinda get the idea, I used a griffin aluminum rad, dual flex-a-lite fans, with a 165*F thermostat, can run in 95*F weather in some nasty thick mud and never get past 170*

Here you can see the upper hose, both lines run on the passenger side frame rail.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6889/truckpics318.jpg (http://img27.imageshack.us/i/truckpics318.jpg/)

rad is mounted straight up, not much much mud gets in it and it is easily washed out.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3483/edmontontrip09081.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/edmontontrip09081.jpg/)

I was just wondering if the water pump has any problems pushing the coolant this far?

I think that the csr pump he runs pushes about 37gal a min. thats quite a bit plus u have all of that extra fuild in the lines. I've seen videos of this truck run and he doesn't look like it has any problems keeping it cool. stong *** motor

strong *** motor. lol

seems to work pretty good, it can be a major pain to get all the air out of the system, but once its out, the pump keeps up just fine.

I ran a stock ford water pump with the Moroso electric pump drive kit and had no problems. Just remove the thermostat, burp all the air out and let it rip.

I run the stock radiator and then I have one in the rear also. I used 1 1/4 heater hose. It works great, I ran it for a while with a stock water pump then I put a meziere 55 gpm pump on it. Everything has been fine, the only thing you have to watch is make sure your radiator in the rear is higher than the engine and the front radiator. That way you can get all the air out of the system, and just fill it with the rear one or if you just run one you would fill it there anyway. I have two set of flexalite fans on it, but I never turn the front ones on, if I ever turn any on. With that much coolant it is also impossible to over heat it.

I recently built a swamp/hunting buggy with a rear mounted radiator and used 1 1/4 Type "M" (rigid/heavy wall) copper tubing.....worked great.

I used 1 and a half inch alum pipe run straight under my truck with just radiator hose hooking it all together with elec water pump works great

I should have it all plumbed this weekend. Any special precautions to filling it up with water? Can I just add water to the rear until its full?

As long as it's the highest point in the system with no place for air to be traped, yeah. If you have any air traps you'll have to put bleeders in them.....I can tell you from experience that even high RPM's won't move a bubble if it's large enough.
Kind of difficult to see, but here's mine.....
http://i49.tinypic.com/11go7kx.jpg

I don't think I have any places for air to be trapped. Where might it be hiding that I'm not thinking of?

http://www.nwuonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2109 Good imfo here

Make sure your thermostat housing has a plug hole in it. When filling the system, leave the out until it you start to get water coming out, then insert the plug and finish filling the system. It will help make suer you have no air. I did that on mine and also since I run an electric water pump setup, I turned that on to get it circulating and finished filling it that way. No air, and all was good.