sled pullin 466 help/????'s

just wanted to throw my combo/ride out there. I've been lurking around this site for a couple of weeks now, looking for the right way to go bigger w/ my 460. Still don't know what I am going to do, but here is what i'm working with as of right now...

D9TE-AB block bored 0.030" over (466 ci), Melling high volume oil pump

stock crank, stock truck rods w/ ARP bolts, clevite 77 main/rod/cam bearings

Speed pro forged flat top pistons, moly rings, I think about 10.8:1 w/ 72cc head (does not like 93 octane, even w/103 octane booster)

DOVE-A heads: mildly ported/polished, Scorpion roller rockers, 3/8" Comp Cams hardened pushrods w/Milodon guideplates

Lunati hyd. cam(Bracket Master II): .516"Int/.543Exh lift & 288Int/298Exh Adv. duration --installed straight up, Cloyes true double roller old style timing chain

New HD 3 core radiator, Weiand aluminum water pump, 18" Electric fan, oil cooler

Weiand Stealth intake/Holley 850 4150(flows 920cfm)/K&N stub stack & 14"x4"filter w/xtreme flow lid, stock Ford dizzy(for now), Ford Racing 9mm plug wires, MSD 6A, MSD Blaster 2 coil, Dual Optima yellow tops/ 200amp alt., L&L headers: 1 3/4 primaries w/ 3" collectors currently open

ribbed C6(2wd case), stock converter(I know, don't start), altered valve body(shifts real hard), tranny cooler, boltup 205, 14 bolt rear(GM piece I know, but nothing else would hold up), 4:56 gears, detroit locker, disc brakes

had coil sprung 8-lug Dana 44-currently no front end in the rig now, have another frame set up for leaf springs and have a Dana 60 front to go in whenever I get time to set the frame up & painted w/ my sled pulling gear(ladder bars-FRONT & rear) trick hitch that loads the center of the frame and doen't pivot truck on rear axle :twisted: , front weight bar & the like.

alot of work went into this truck(couldn't have done it w/o my dad[Terry McCraney], who has his own sled pulling monster on 44 boggers w/ a 1300hp-605 :shock: )
I learned alot of things from him but I did most of the work on this truck my self(excluding the paint and body work, which was done by his shop in Plant City, Fla.-Weldon's Paint & Body Shop), and have over $20K invested since May of 2003 when I started this project(my junior year of high school, yes I'm only 20 this June)


Now finally, what I origionally started to say. My Desktop Dyno gives me numbers of about 485hp@5000/556tq@3000, with it making over 500lb.ft from 1500-5200rpm, which in my opinion is doing very well being that I have hardly anything special done to the engine by current standards. However, as usually is the case I have found the desire for more power.

I need my next engine to be just as streetable as the one listed above, meaning it won't overheat in traffic, will run on AV gas on the road/race gas at track/mudhole, & be durable enough to have fun with w/o worrying to much about it(as if thats possible when you have this much money/time invested in something). So, I am thinking keep the compression about the same, get better heads(maybe alum. SCJ or Blue Thunder), bigger (maybe solid roller)cam(don't care about idle quality, actually love lope!), keep stealth?, and most importantly, more cubic inches!!! I'd like to keep my same block, but other than that I am open to suggestions, anyone have any ideas??? If you need to know anything else, let me know...

Here's what I got(pics were taken when truck was still on the road & before I got the other Optima)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_5_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_6_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_1_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_2_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_4_full.jpg

Nice Bronco! Those rear arm rests look like the ones in my torino.

yeah, those came stock in the broncos too, maybe for just used the same ones so they didn't have to change tooling...

i meant FORD, not for, don't mind my typing

Hey, very nice Bronco! I've got one too (see signature below for quick specs). I would definitely go with a stroker kit. I purchased mine from Ohio Crankshaft, but there are several great vendors on this site.

The Ohio Crankshaft stroker rotating assembly kit includes:
Nodular iron 4.140" crankshaft with large radii on journals and chamfered oil holes. Fully machined, micro polished and internally balanced. Weight-75 lbs.
6.8" 4340 steel (2 piece forgings) H-beam connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts. They feature more material around the bolt and are 100% machined on all surfaces, stress relieved, shotpeened and are heat treated to 100% martensite grain structure. Their shop has both Sunnen and Peterson honing machines, with the latest diamond and vitreous technology.
KB hypereutectic pistons #152 (1.43" compression height, 20cc D-shaped dish) with wrist pins and spiral locks. Weight-660 grams.
Federal Mogul Performance 3/4 groove main bearings #134M.
Speed-Pro competition series, super duty alloy rod bearings with chamfer #8-7200CH.
Sealed Power premium ring set #E-296K-60.

It was a pleasure doing business with Ohio Crankshaft and their components are top quality. I chose to pay an additional $150 for balancing and it was all delivered to my home residence for $1200.

nice bronc too Danny

yeah, i've heard nice things about Ohio Crankshaft, but I don't know how the hypereutectic slugs would hold up, yeah I forgot to mention there is a chance, actually a very good chance that this motor will see spray(prob.250shot when pullin in open)

the rods however I am stuck on. Before the 605 my dad's 466 had STOCK crank, STOCK rods(shot peened/resized/stress relieved), TRW forged popups(12.5:1comp w/72cc hds),all balanced & blueprinted, melling high volume oil pump, Lunati custom grind solid lifter cam(.598 lift/305adv duration), C9VE-A heads fully ported/polished/2.25int./1.88exh/Harland Sharp rockers, Weiand Stealth intake, Holley 850(flowed 920). This combo Desktop Dyno'd at 705hp@6500/652tq@4500. He also sprayed a 250shot under the carb every time he pulled in open class for about 15sec under full load in 2nd in a C6. Somehow, HE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THIS MOTOR AND IT WAS STILL RUNNING WHEN HE REPLACED IT with the 605. Mind you we proly gave it that much about 100 times and it never so much as puffed out any smoke.

So I am wondering how much these aftermarket rods can stand or if we just got lucky???

Usually Broncos are too short wheel based for any type of serious sled pulling. And I've never seen anyone pull with 44" tires and have much success. I think if you put your engine in a late 60's 0r 70's f250 You would have a lot more fun at the pulls

...

Actually, digger, you could not be more wrong. The bronco we usually take to the sled pulls, pictured below, not the one in my origional post, regularly DOMINATES the seld pulls down here. Our sled is about 50,000lbs I believe and tracks are 300ft. If you have enough motor to turn the 44's and keep your wheel speed up, you will RULE(more tire=more traction=better pull), trust me, and when your stuff is set up right, bronco's can be EXTREMELY hard to deal with on the track b/c they HOOK...

We were going to the pulls with only 705hp/650lb.ft and placing first in both 6750lb class & 8000lb open class against trucks with over 1000hp-even trucks with the "long wheelbase" you described as being sooo great.
I am not new by ANY means to the sledpulling game and would never consider ditching my bronco for anything else, period.

P.S., I was not trying to sound like an a**, but I really wasn't looking for advice about my truck, especially any that suggested me getting rid of something I, being 20 years old, restored my self as my first vehicle and have over 20 grand in, sorry...

Here's what we take to the pulls...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_33_full.jpg

just out of curiosity is your block decked? and would that make it more likely to run on lower octane?

No, my block is stock height, with just a clean-up cut on head surface. My heads have 72cc chamber IIRC and with the flat-tops it makes about 11:1, not really 93octane friendly w/ the iron heds. But, i'm going with aluminum heads with the cube increase, so it will likely handle more compression w/ o detonation, I hope...

Way past nice Bronco :!:

thanks Lem, they both sound even better than they look!

I never implied that you "ditch" your Bronco. In my truck pulling org. there are no short wheel base trucks(Blazers,Ramchargers,Jeeps,Broncos,etc.) iust because they are at such a disadvantage. Most of them can't even get the sled moving. Although we have a much larger sled(self propelled) than the one I see in your pic.

the one you see in the pic is the local, non-regulation sled at a local mudhole/dragstrip. It is only about 39,000lbs, quite a "baby", and pretty much started the pulling thing in the small town where it is, before everyone moved on to the larger one and bigger competitions. The one we regularly pull with is a much larger one and travels around the state I believe and is around 50,000lbs., and is also self-propelled.

the "shortwheelbase-disadvantage" argument is somewhat debateable. Theory and hypothysis are well and good, but when it gets to the track, nothing else matters except what works and what doesn't, and it just so happens that in my experience, the shortwheelbase works pretty damn well. As I said before, the bronco pulling the sled above outpulls much LONGER trucks that have ALOT more hp/tq(well, they had more), alot more $$$ in suspension stuff, but alot less experience and knowledge of the sport...

now that i'm done ranting... :wink:

actually it's kinda funny, the sled in the pics above is really hick actually. It used to be filled with parts like concrete/railroad track/rebar/etc. I don't even think they use that any more, I know we don't pull there anymore, we have since "evolved" :roll:

DANG, them broncos a friggin sweet, still wish I could get my hands on a nice one!!

Descent ones are becomming increasingly more scarce, I payed $2500 for mine and it had holes in the floors and looked like this...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_11_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2107000-2107999/2107243_17_full.jpg

NASTY!!!

I will second what Danny stated earlier, more cubic inch is the way to go. My 528 with some minor changes would still be totally streetable, and with the bronco it a riot. Short wheelbase is where its at, wether SB pickup or bronco, its all good. Those are both sweet looking broncs, I like your brite tread inner side panel and your dads 77 and older grill is great. That is a really cool look for broncos, and makes people shake their head trying to figure it out when you tell them its a 78 or 79 too. Nice rides!

thanks for the kind comments Pro, we're proud of them

yeah, I agree about upping the cubes, I can't wait. I'm thinking atleast 514, but probly 528, 532 or possibly 557, depends on what direction I want to go and how far I plan to take it. After seen my pops neew 605 though, I think that is a bit big(esp. at 15.5:1!), but it sounds cool and HAULS!

Back in 87, We used to pull here locally with a 78 SWB XLT Street Legal 466, They made us set the nitrous bottle on the ground though! Most of the other trucks we pulled against were short wheelbase Fords, Broncos and Chevs. They quit bringing the sled in after 88 so we went to the bogs. We always ran the Goodyear 14.50x31 Wrangler XT's when pulling. Funny thing, all the other drivers wanted to know where we came of with those tires, since Goodyear had quit making them.

If we can make the 6750 weight class, we have to take the bottle out too, but in 8000 open we get to leave it in, or we did before we got the big motor, now we dont need/use it at all.

I don't think there is anyone out on the track with smaller than 35" tires. Some of the guys swear by them, saying that you can spin then faster, keeping alot of wheelspeed and keep your momentum up. The ones saying this are usually guys with smallblock( :roll: ), who don't make the hp(or more importantly tq) to turn the big tires and get/keep the sled moving, but some of them do really well with the little tires. Some of the rigs out there have 351W motors that they turn 9500rpm for the duration of the pull.

This one guy used to have a 350 chebby motor that he only described as a "NASCAR" engine backed by a 4spd with 1/2ton axles and 33" all-terrains. He would put it in 3rd gear and rev it to 9000, dump the clutch and hold it to the floor :shock: . He would usually full-pull it, but something was always fishy as he was the one who built the sled so we thought he knew something everyone else didn't ...

but there is only one thing better than a 351 spinning 8000 while sled pulling on nitrous with tons of gear reduction...

:twisted: a 605 cubic inch monster with 15.5:1 compression, all motor, open headers in the fenderwells with 2 1/4"primaries/6"collectors whipping 8500 for 20 sec dragging 50,000lbs on the ground(not rolling-dragging) :twisted: