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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-08-2013 04:20 PM
Falcon67 I use this procedure on everything - solid or hydro. EOIC works, you don't need a chart or a firing order, just go one cylinder at a time. This is specifically directed at the questions I used to get about setting hydros but I use the same on solids and get it done.

http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html



Pick a cylinder.

Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts up. Intake is now on base circle.

Loosen the intake lock nut.

WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.

Twirl intake pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut until you feel the pushrod stop turning. A little practice is all it takes. You will know - it stops right away, unless you are turning it with pliers. This is zero lash.

Tighten locknut 1/2~3/4 turn.

Bump the motor until the Intake is almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle.

Loosen the exhaust lock nut.

WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.

Twirl exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) , etc...

Tighten locknut 1/2~3/4 turn.

Repeat as necessary.
10-07-2013 05:56 PM
GT300TD
3 position method

Crankshaft at TDC on compression stroke
#1 #7 #8 Intake
#1 #4 #5 Exhaust

Rotate crankshaft clockwise 180* (half turn)
#4 #5 Intake
#2 #6 Exhaust

Rotate crankshaft clockwise 270* (3/4 turn)
#2 #3 #6 Intake
#3 #7 #8 Exhaust
09-23-2013 02:41 PM
68formalGT Thanks again Auggie.
09-22-2013 11:19 PM
ag460torino
books

that is out of "how to rebuild ford v8 engines" by Tom Monroe. The other book with good engine code info is " how to build max performance ford v8's on a budget" by George Reid

Call on me anytime if I can help......

Auggie
09-22-2013 05:00 PM
68formalGT
Quote:
Originally Posted by ag460torino View Post
give me a sec and I will post a 3 position chart

Thank you. It looks like you found that in a book if so what book did you find it in if you don't mind me asking?
09-22-2013 01:58 PM
ag460torino
3 position chart....

give me a sec and I will post a 3 position chart

09-22-2013 12:15 PM
68formalGT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post




Excerpt from Bret Powell's post on setting valve lash with big camshafts:
Adjust the intake when the exhaust starts to open.
Adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed...not when it starts to close.

What happened to the 3 position chart?
06-21-2012 08:31 PM
D Pope You can always get a cylinder so the valves are in the split overlap position (both valves open) and set the valves on the cylinder that's four down in the firing order.
06-21-2012 06:55 PM
GT300TD Does the three position chart system work as well as the 90* chart. I used the three position system, it seems to run ok but I just want to make sure it runs the best it can. The system I used was a lot easier because I adjusted them by myself.
Thanks.
06-17-2012 06:34 AM
quick 52 nice info. not to be a a$$ but you have a chart for X brands. i run a ford but like all three brands and run them to.
06-16-2012 10:09 AM
jeffgfg I used this method for years on my 1970 Torino with a 429SCJ. I even put marks on the balancer so it was quicker to hit the marks. Just an interesting note my cam was advanced I think 8 degrees as per the Ford Muscle parts instructions and it always worked for me with over 30,000 street and racing miles on it. Wish I had that car back!!
06-16-2012 09:51 AM
D Pope Here's the cam profile chart for a 304 degree Isky solid cam. You can see that the valves are both closed for around 240 degrees. If you allow a bit for the clearance takeup ramp you'll still have around 200 degrees to work with. This won't change much with any camshaft. The valves can't be open on the power or compression strokes. That's why that chart has to work. Anybody who claims it won't better go back to elementary motor mechanics!!
06-16-2012 06:36 AM
4604X4
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrocco View Post
Hi Danny



It only makes sense (to me at least) that the cam grind and how the cam is degreed on installation will affect when the valves are on the base circle of the cam as compared to the 0 reference point on the balancer.

If the cam is installed 4 degrees advanced or retarded, would not the base of the cam be 4 degrees off when the balancer is on 0?

Refering to the Car Domain chart, when you set the balancer on 0 and adjust No 1 intake, No 1 exhaust, No 7 Intake, etc, on a cam that is installed 4 degrees advanced you are not on the lowest point of the cam.

.
Just to point out that whether the crank is rotated to "0" or "350" or "10" degrees the cam will still be on the base circle because the number of degrees of crank rotation from TDC (on compression stroke) is much more than 4 degrees. In other words when the engine is at TDC the valves don't start to move with just 4 degrees of crank movement. The base circle is from #9 to #6 on the profile drawing (actually a little more).
11-16-2006 10:21 AM
jrocco Hi Danny
I did not mean to create a big argument here about valve adjustments or to upset you in any way. I was only trying to pass on the experience I had to help others that may have the same problem.

In my particular case the Comp Cams method solved a bogging problem that I was having above 5,000 RPM. When I set the valves using the Car Domain method, my engine pulled hard to 5,000 RPM then fell on its knees.

It only makes sense (to me at least) that the cam grind and how the cam is degreed on installation will affect when the valves are on the base circle of the cam as compared to the 0 reference point on the balancer.

If the cam is installed 4 degrees advanced or retarded, would not the base of the cam be 4 degrees off when the balancer is on 0?

Refering to the Car Domain chart, when you set the balancer on 0 and adjust No 1 intake, No 1 exhaust, No 7 Intake, etc, on a cam that is installed 4 degrees advanced you are not on the lowest point of the cam.

It also follows that different cam grinds affect the overlap of the intake and exhaust valves, so again the low point of the cam lobes can be different relating to 0 on the damper.

For all of those reasons I found that the EOIC method guaranteed having the cam lobe at the correct position to adjust the valve. After using that method, my engine pulled hard all the way to 6500 RPM when I shifted.
11-16-2006 04:08 AM
Danny Cabral
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrocco
The charts above work for a factory stock cam. Once you install a performance cam you can disregard that information.

This is because the performance cam will have a different duration and different intake centerline that affects which valves are open at a certain point.
Wrong! What size camshaft are you using?
When adjusting valves, you are on the base circle of each camshaft lobe. The lift, duration and separation angle are on the opposite end of the lobe...so why the heck would it matter (unless it's a radical cam with enormous lift and duration)? If your valves are open on the base circle of your camshaft, you've got a serious problem!



You're the first person that I've heard have a problem with the chart. Then you say it doesn't work with performance camshafts? I've got news for you...I wouldn't have posted this if it only worked with stock camshafts. Furthermore, I could care less what the Comp Cams 'tech guy' thinks he knows. I often link this page as a reference for others and now it's infiltrated with this useless dialogue!
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