|03-29-2014 09:50 PM|
|Anquia||It all has to do with the fuel injection system, actually. THe more throttle, the more fuel and higher RPM's. Therefore, if you jerk the throttle too hard foward, You're putting in too much fuel at low RPM's, thus causing a fire in your engine. If you jerk the throttle too hard backward, you're not letting in enough fuel at High RPM's, causing a flameout.|
|08-23-2013 09:57 AM|
Ah bummer man. Thats quite unfortunate! Lesson learned tho right lol
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|08-23-2013 09:32 AM|
Well here ya go. It blew up because I am an idiot and the pushrods were not hardened and the guide plates ate them up also i used cheep oil.
here is what all the pushrods look like:
it took out a lobe on the cam too:
|06-27-2013 04:14 PM|
|twekd1||its also getting dyno tuned before i get it back|
|06-27-2013 04:12 PM|
well it looks like my motor was a mess.
to start i had closer to 12.5:1 compression
the cam was causing too much cylinder pressure
something happned with the pushrods and the guide plates and they were all chewed up.
also from the motor sitting for so long somehow water got in 1 cylinder rusting the bore and sticking up the rings.
The motor is getting redone, new bearings, rings, solid roller cam,
hopefully it holds tougher this time
|06-24-2013 08:10 PM|
I used a M84DHV oil pump also with that pan the entire time I raced it.
|06-13-2013 10:27 PM|
lots of good Pans.Mines a Canton.but also Moroso makes a good few also
|06-13-2013 03:29 PM|
I have a feeling this is why the original motor blew up also (same pan)
Still waiting for an answer from the machine shop. To my knowledge the machine shop is the best guy around MPD performance. Its is an honor to have the master Fred Mandoline work on my scrap, he is usually working on blown alcohol funny car engines tho, I hope he can help with my junk.
What is a good pan to use that will fit in a fox body mustang?
(I am thinking already I will have to cut my k member and weld in something new to clear the new pan)
|06-12-2013 10:47 PM|
very familar to what mine used to do with same oil pan.the oil would go up back of pan and run dry and burn the mains and rod bearings and the break rods off.had it happen 3 times in one season.Got a better pan with baffles and never had the problem again,
|06-12-2013 06:04 PM|
|jkcamperspecial||sounds like what happen to my sweet 472 ...but i pushed mine for a 3rd pass as pressure wasnt at 0psi but was weird...up and down and the 3rd pass pushed #4 cam bearing out and went boom! took every install step very seriously 0n my new 545!about the only thing i salvaged on short block was the timing cover and water pump good luck!|
|06-12-2013 09:49 AM|
|twekd1||Engine is out and dropped off at Fred Mandoline's MPD Performance to see what is going on in there. He said I should have answers early next week. I hope its nothing major and he can find me some extra hp.|
|06-11-2013 06:43 PM|
|A70Maverick||I find it hard to believe your sucking a rear sump pan dry at 5,600 rpm with a stock pump. I'm guessing there's another issue here.|
|06-11-2013 03:36 PM|
Yes, go to www.HighFlowDynamics.com and click on "oil mods".
Yes, it is possible to be running the pan dry, and an extra quart of oil would be good insurance against such condition.
|06-11-2013 02:13 PM|
Yeah there are oil passage mods. I don't know what they are off hand but I think Paul Kane does and I'm sure some others know.
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|06-11-2013 10:54 AM|
Its a standard pump. The pressure acts like the engine has 150k miles. Hopefully i will start to pull the motor tonight and get it to the machine shop where I can have it diagnosed and figure out where my problem is.
In my theory if i am pushing all the oil in the top of the motor, and running the pump dry at high rpms it would tear out all the bearings pritty quickly and cause the problem i am having, but its all just a guess until i can get it apart and see what is getting tore up.
has anyone here had to open up any oil passages or anything like that to get the flow of oil to the pan quicker.
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