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2000 Ford Ranger Build

110K views 430 replies 35 participants last post by  penak 
#1 ·
Building it for the strip not the for the streets putting a mild 460 built mostly off here with used and new parts.The trans c6 the stall still in ? until I get the truck finish and wieght of it.Putting a 12 point roll cage from Applied Racing Technology (A.R.T.) out of Clearwater FL. Goig with a 9in. ford rear with 4 link gears still in ?Going to be moveing the engine back alittle to help with the wieght tranfer and going with motor plates. I know for the mild 460 it is a little over kill, but if go with more cubes and hp later on I want the truck to hadle it with out changing everything.Heres some pics of the truck and when I got the old motor out and dash out of it.







 
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#30 ·
Cab is about 2 1/2'' lower was thinking about going even lower but didn't want to have to cut behind the hood and windshield for the carb right now with the engine lowered and the cab I want have to cut any more out and everything will fit under the hood and can run a 1" spacer under carb if needed I want even have to have a scoop on it give it a sleeper look they want even think of a BBF in it
 
#31 ·
I know the look you want ;) . I loved it other day when I took mine to walmart guy in front of me on bike was looking all over trying to figure out where the noise was coming from . He must not of thought it could come from the ranger because he was totally shocked when I went around him in the turn lane . :D
 
#32 ·
Ha that sounds like a blast!! Now your gonna get the cop liking you again!!:D

I had the same thing with my Fairmont, light tan with hub-caps. Nobody knew what was coming!!

Bill
 
#36 ·
Thanks it is going to be one of my longest projects yet but when finished it will be worth it just have to keep telling myself do it right the first time don't get in a hurry and mess up Rick (aka 557 mazda) is keeping me strieght on it and is a big help and I have learned alot from him from helping with his car and building this one.
 
#38 ·
Thanks guys we are working on getting the cage in it got about half of it tacked in place going to get all the bars in before welding them all up leaveing the bars off to the rear until we pull the cab off and get the other bar welded all the way around them and painted leave just wear the rear bar connect to the cage unpainted
 
#40 ·
OK here is some pics of the unfinshed cage still have to weld it all up leaving the rear bars off until we pull the cab off so I can weld all the way aroung the joints so I can make sure they are welded good and get them painted except where the rear bars connect.









 
#42 ·
Yes it was notched on one end but when I told him what I was going to do he made the bars alittle longer so I could costume fit them the way I wanted them but it turned out they could have been shorter with me lowering the cab. I have no complates on them and they are very affordable and answered all my ?s I had and he told me how he was going to do them
 
#43 ·
Got the front end bolted back I had to notch the grill alittle on the back side for it to fit around the front bars it would have been fine if I hadn't lowered the cab.The front bumper was the hardest had to drop the brackets the hold the bumper on, getting them lined up and getting it tack for I could weld it.I can have the front clip off in less than 5 mins.4 hood bolts, 8 fender bolts and 4 bumper bolts and set it off. The bumper the way I got it set up it don't have to come off to take the fenders and grill off the truck.It only takes a 5/16 ,two 1/2s for the fenders and grill, 17mm for bumper.On the carb I can run a 1" spacer if I need to with a 1" spacer I will have only 1/2" to 3/4" to the hood clearance, rad has about 1" clearance on it.Heres some pics.



 
#46 ·
Looking great cant wait to see how you route the headers , because of the way I made mine 3/4 length I ended up with 2 tubes left over after I was done . I will give you a little advice , my flanges were warped even before welding so I have cut the flanges between each cylinder to keep from blowing gaskets . I talked to a couple people about it and they said there is really no way to avoid the warpage and said that they always end up cutting the flanges .
 
#47 ·
When welding on the flang you can only weld about 1/4" and let it cool and keep doning it that way that way it want build alot of heat and warp I have bought new sets before and had to cut to make everything line up right. The flangs that came with mine look good an strieght but they look to be made out of some cheap steel thou I don't mine cutting them if I have to.well let me get off here and get some more done on it going to try and fab up a frame to hold the skins off the bed with
 
#48 ·
It was my first set so I probably screwed up on them , but the flanges were warped on mine before I started . I figured I should put them on with the bow towards the heads and the outer ends would pull in with the bolts but they didnt . Thanks for the advice on welding them .
 
#50 ·
I bet that thing is gonna be light as heck with all the weight you got rid of . I took about everything I could outta my 86 and only lost 400 pounds ;). Are you planning on aluminum sheeting for the floors ?
 
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