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Jed's 1967 fastback

25K views 116 replies 25 participants last post by  Inbred-jed 
#1 · (Edited)
Actually started this build a year and a half ago and its a few short weeks from completion. I just finally got around to sharing some of the details with you folks. The car is a 1967 fastback mustang that has been in our family 40 years. My father drove the car as a daily driver for several years until attempting to race it in 1979. after a few failed attempts and blown engines the car was parked until 1996. After graduating highschool i began sinking every nickel i had into the car for the next two years. Starting out with cleveland blocks the car ran 11.70's until cracking two blocks and learning a valuable lesson. After sitting out a season in 2000 i brought the car out in 2001 with a 501 edelbrock headed engine putting me into the high 9's and 10.0s in the heat. It was backed by a C6 no transbrake and a makeshift ladderbar suspension (i was poor) I ran the car this way til 2012. The engine lasted 11 years and 3 refreshens and was still running when i sold it. I decided the car was destined for a new beginning..a total tranformation that i could not afford fresh out of highschool. The car had its rust issues as do all sixties mustangs. I had done a lot of patch work and cleverly masked alot of the cars problems with a great running engine and a decent paint job applied by myself. The car needed floors..quarters..cowl..etc etc....but i wanted a race car too. Ive always been in love with the cars at the track that appeared they drove in..full interiors practically...carpet..door panels..but really ran some respectable times. So i decided i didnt want a full tubbed out all aluminum interior stripped down tool for winning races. I wanted a car that still had the essence of the original car but with enough changes to make it a competitive racer. So in Nov 2012 I got started. Here are some pics of the car when i got started.






 
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#108 ·
suspension issue...

Hey guys i uploaded some video of my car launching...it seems to be porpoising a bit....any ideas? Its a 4 link...anti roll bar...29x12 hoosier...Strange DA shocks set at 4 clicks off soft on compression and 7 clicks off soft on rebound.....heres a video full speed ..2 slo mos ...and a full speed..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dIzo1ktLhA&feature=youtu.be
 
#111 ·
Jed

Jed from the video the tires are getting crushed (sidewall) tighten the rebound up 2-4 more clicks and the compression needs to go at least 2 if not 4 more clicks this will help keep the tires on from pushing back up into the car. I have been fighting issues most of the season but finally go it hooking right by tightening the rear AFCO DA shocks.. I set mine from stiff I am 12 from stiff on rebound and 8 from stiff on compression.. if you look under 1986 coupe build toward the end there is a video link of last time I was out..
Hope this helps and good luck.. Love the build that is one beautiful car..
Chris
 
#114 ·
Jed

I posted a reply and did more reading about the strange DA you may need to send them back for a more custom valving since they only have 9 total adjustments and your running small tire high HP.. I have to send my Afco back to get them re-valved because I am almost as tight as the shock will allow.. You can also put a little more tire pressure to keep from crushing the tire so much with a little more shock stiffening.. Just a thought.. Good luck and let us know how it works out if you get out this weekend..
Chris
 
#115 ·
First you have done a fantastic job and have great car. You have a good eye for detail.

Just a few things that went through my mind on your car.
I went back through the build and from what I see is your car is all steel,stock glass and the motor is in the stock location.
So just a thought. Most strut cars have tube chassis with substantial engine set back and glass front wrap ---- glass doors and lexan windows. ----- This puts more static weight on the rear. In turn needing less front end travel for weight transfer.

Getting back to your car --- richter 69 --- touched on front end travel and I think he is on the right track. Super Stock cars are all steel heavy front cars with no problem wheel standing but look at all the front end travel they have to work with.
If we follow along this line of thinking using what we have the front struts should be setup for maximum travel on launch.
Another thing to think about is adding a 100lb ballast bar back by the rear bumper to increase rear static weight.

Another option is changing the front struts. Strange makes different stroke length struts.

Oh and one more thing that just came to mind is rear shock travel. Make sure with car race ready with driver weight that rear shocks have a minimum of 1" shaft showing so they don't bottom out and unload the rear tires.
 
#117 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies everyone...well I made quite a few passes this weekend and have determined it's definately not just the shocks...I went through pretty much every shock combo right up to stiff stiff...car felt like a brick...didn't porpoise but it spun like crazy lol....I think you guys are onto it with the front end travel and ballast...the engine does sit back slightly from stock but only an inch...car is still front heavy for sure...I think the convertor still may be an issue as well ...the convertor still does not flash above peak torque on the leave it's about 400 rpm short...I feel it's planting the tire causing the rear to drop but then it's laying on the convertor for .79 seconds not building any power until after it gets over the torque curve...sound plausible?...I definately think there is multiple factors
 
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