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472 build for my 49 Mercury

7K views 41 replies 7 participants last post by  White Lightning 
#1 ·
My brother needs a motor for his 64 Marauder so I'm letting him have the 460 I've got in the Merc now and I'm going to build a 472 to replace it. A neighbour gave me 5 460s and I already had 3 so I'm picking the one with the least wear and going from there. They're all D1VE blocks from the mid seventies.
The best one hasn't a trace of wear on the crank journals or the cylinders. (a bit of rust though) It's all standard Ford bearings so I'd guess around 75000 miles or the like.
I got .060 over Probe FPS forged pistons, Clevite moly rings, .010 King bearings and Fel-Pro gaskets. Now off to the machine shop for a rebore and crank regrind and zero deck job. Any suggestions from those in the know for the bearing and piston clearances for a street engine?
I have an Isky Z89 solid cam with 304 duration ( 264 at .050) complete with kit. I've got D0VE heads that I'm going to use Ferrea 1.76 and 2.19 stainless valves and do a home porting job. The heads will have adjustable roller tip rockers with guide plates. Compression ratio will be just about right on 10 to 1.
I'll be using a Ford SVO Performer RPM type manifold with a Holley 3 barrel and a cool air system. The exhaust will be fenderwell headers into 3" Lakes pipes.
Does all this work well together or am I missing anything? Any estimates on the HP it'll produce?
 

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#35 ·
I am curious what spring you are intending to use. An .800" seat height sounds a bit low. If it is a dual spring you are going to have to have the valve spring pockets cut. You also will need to have the valve guide ends cut down and use a PC type seal. The metal viton ones are the best to use.

I'd also recommend using a hardened spring locator. Once all that is done you can put shims under the locator to set up your valves. You can also use offset keepers, but keep in mind that negitive offset keepers will move the valve retainer closer to the valve guide and seal. You want to have a min. of .060" between the retainer and valve seal.

Your rockers on the exh. are a little off to the side. Would not say is a big deal, but looks like on those rockers that the side of the rocker comes down close to same level as the roller. I would be concerned that in operation that it not contact the valve tip.

The rockers are also very low. Are they for a BBC? I'd try an adj. pushrod to see if you can get them up higher. It would also take care of why your poly lock is so low. Cover the valve stem tip with blue marking compound and cycle the valve. As long as the pattern is centered and not wide you are good.

Honestly for a solid lifter cam and the 350 lbs or so spring pressure you should be running I'd recommend getting a better rocker arm like a Crane gold, FRPP, or TFS for BBF.

Steve
 
#36 ·
The springs are Comp Cams and the loaded pressure is @ 1.2" The compressed length now is 1.4" and the closed length is 2". That means I need .2" less spring height. The guides are already shortened. I've got 5/16" clearance between the guides and retainers when the valves are open. I can get .1" out of different keepers and another .1" out of spring shims.
They're BBF rockers with the longer slot in them. I don't want roller fulcrum rockers with a solid flat lifter cam. The loading and unloading of those rollers will shake them apart in no time.
The roller tips on my rockers look to be wide enough to avoid contact between the rocker and the valve stem.
The longer pushrod is worth looking into.
Thanks for the input.
 

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#37 ·
Those Comp Cams 924 springs sorry to say are not going to work. They coil bind at 1.175" which would leave you .020" on the intake at full lift which is just too close. For a street build you best to stay at least .100" from coil bind.

As for the spring pocket, again needs to be flat, you need to cut it. Regarding the guides, you cut them down, good, but what are you going to do for valve seals? I could be wrong, but your valve guides look std. diameter. If they are you need to cut them to a smaller dia. like .530" to fit a PC type seal. The inner spring you picked for example is .697" which means your valve stem seals need to be less than that by a safe margin.

About your rockers well all I can say is years ago all there was unless you had lots of money was the factory type ball socket type and they would fail with heavy springs because of the unit loading and friction caused by it. The roller fulcrum reduces that friction and is no issue with a solid cam.

Steve
 
#38 ·
Steve, where did you get the coil bind @ 1.175 figure? Comp rates the springs at 1.2" compressed length so I assumed that would be where you'd operate them.
I brought the heads back from the machinist so I could check everything and do the porting. They'll finish the machining on the guides when they do the valve grind.
I'll use the spring locators too and shim under them.
 
#39 ·
Got it right from their site:

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...duct_Code=924-16&Category_Code=ClevelandValve

Personally if you want to go with a Compcams spring I'd look at PN: 930 Considering this is for the street I'd set it up at 1.950" will be 135 lbs seat with 348 lbs over the nose at 1.350". If you want to turn it more than 5,800 RPM set it up at 1.900". The retainers from your other springs should work with that spring too.

This chart may be of use:

http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/ValveSpringChart.pdf

Steve
 
#40 ·
I did the old clamp it in the vise to check coil bind length and it's 1.094. That leaves .104 clearance with 1.2" open length. Is that enough?
I put a small nut in the pushrod socket in a lifter and that lengthened the pushrod length by 3/16". This started the roller position out from centre of the valve and it moved out from there as the valve opened until it was right at the outside edge so I guess longer pushrods are out of the question.
I'll get .1" offset keepers and spring retainers with a shim to .1" and that'll have the springs at the right height.
 
#41 ·
Should be able to get a .060" feeler guage between the coils of both springs. I don't recommend collapsing a spring to coil bind as it can weaken the spring. Make sure to measure them for proper seat pressure. Do as you wish, but that 924 is really not a good choice for your cam.

I'd again suggest a different rocker arm. Again do as you wish, is your build, and I hope it works out for you. You do have an nice build in that 49 Merc.

Steve
 
#42 ·
Pope, looking back at the pics it looks like the contact pattern is already too far out on the stem with the push rods that you have now. What length are they? Did you say that you decked the block? As you probably already know, there are two camps for proper rocker geometry, one is the mid lift theory and the other is the minimal sweep theory. And harmonically speaking a shorter heavier wall push rod is always better.
Rob
 
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