460 Ford Forum banner

Engine go BOOM.

7K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Anquia 
#1 ·
Well it didn't actually blow up, but I took 2 passes and once the motor warmed up coming back to the pit my oil pressure went to 0 at low idle. I cut open the oil filter and it was all sparkley. Engine has to come out now. Hopefully I can have it back tougher soon. ;-(
 
#2 ·
My guess and please chime in if you have a clue. My oil pan is stock so it only holds 6 qts of oil total. I have heard that at higher rpms (5600) I may be running the pan dry? (I didnt look at the oil gauge wile taking the pass) Has anyone heard of this or should I be looking at something else?

Once its torn down I will have a better clue. and please wile i have it on the machine shop should I be doing anything special / tricks. To keep this BBf tougher?
 
#3 ·
A more likely scenario is the oil sloshing away from the pickup on acceleration and the pump sucking air. A rear supm pan and baffles cures this problem.
 
#7 ·
Its a standard pump. The pressure acts like the engine has 150k miles. Hopefully i will start to pull the motor tonight and get it to the machine shop where I can have it diagnosed and figure out where my problem is.


In my theory if i am pushing all the oil in the top of the motor, and running the pump dry at high rpms it would tear out all the bearings pritty quickly and cause the problem i am having, but its all just a guess until i can get it apart and see what is getting tore up.

has anyone here had to open up any oil passages or anything like that to get the flow of oil to the pan quicker.
 
#16 ·
You should have checked the level of oil in the heads to see if you may need some restrictors.

I find it hard to believe your sucking a rear sump pan dry at 5,600 rpm with a stock pump. I'm guessing there's another issue here.
X2! I ran that same oilpan for over 8 years on my 466 and wound that thing to 7500rpm's more than a few times with zero issues, matter of fact when I sold the engine I pulled the pan and checked the bearings and they were good as new with well over 2000 quarter mile passes and probably 50,000 street miles.

I used a M84DHV oil pump also with that pan the entire time I raced it.

I have a feeling this is why the original motor blew up also (same pan)

Still waiting for an answer from the machine shop. To my knowledge the machine shop is the best guy around MPD performance. Its is an honor to have the master Fred Mandoline work on my scrap, he is usually working on blown alcohol funny car engines tho, I hope he can help with my junk.

What is a good pan to use that will fit in a fox body mustang?
(I am thinking already I will have to cut my k member and weld in something new to clear the new pan)
The Moroso 20625 is a nice piece and what I am using on my 523.
 
#12 ·
sounds like what happen to my sweet 472 ...but i pushed mine for a 3rd pass as pressure wasnt at 0psi but was weird...up and down and the 3rd pass pushed #4 cam bearing out and went boom! took every install step very seriously 0n my new 545!about the only thing i salvaged on short block was the timing cover and water pump:(:( good luck!
 
#14 · (Edited)
I have a feeling this is why the original motor blew up also (same pan)

Still waiting for an answer from the machine shop. To my knowledge the machine shop is the best guy around MPD performance. Its is an honor to have the master Fred Mandoline work on my scrap, he is usually working on blown alcohol funny car engines tho, I hope he can help with my junk.

What is a good pan to use that will fit in a fox body mustang?
(I am thinking already I will have to cut my k member and weld in something new to clear the new pan)
 
#17 ·
well it looks like my motor was a mess.
to start i had closer to 12.5:1 compression
the cam was causing too much cylinder pressure
something happned with the pushrods and the guide plates and they were all chewed up.
also from the motor sitting for so long somehow water got in 1 cylinder rusting the bore and sticking up the rings.


The motor is getting redone, new bearings, rings, solid roller cam,
hopefully it holds tougher this time
 
#21 ·
It all has to do with the fuel injection system, actually. THe more throttle, the more fuel and higher RPM's. Therefore, if you jerk the throttle too hard foward, You're putting in too much fuel at low RPM's, thus causing a fire in your engine. If you jerk the throttle too hard backward, you're not letting in enough fuel at High RPM's, causing a flameout.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top