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-   -   Valve Lash Adjustment Charts (http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97066)

Danny Cabral 01-17-2006 12:14 PM

Valve Lash Adjustment Charts
 
http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.c.../valvelash.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_123_full.jpg

Excerpt from Bret Powell's post on setting valve lash with big camshafts:
Adjust the intake when the exhaust starts to open.
Adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed...not when it starts to close.

tubais 06-03-2006 02:49 AM

is there a method for hydralic lifters?? the motor is on a stand and new lifter. i heard there is a way to do it.

Danny Cabral 06-15-2006 12:57 AM

This is the sequence for hydraulic and solid camshafts.

tubais 06-15-2006 09:03 AM

thanks sir

Wildebill308 07-03-2006 05:33 PM

Thanks Danny!
Now I won't have to bother people with the same queston.

Tore 11-07-2006 06:09 AM

Arrow Direction
 
On the top Valve Lash Adj. Chart by D.Davis I see an arrow that points clockwise,when you look at the rotor spin in the dist it spins C. Clockwise is this correct? :roll: Thanks Tore

Danny Cabral 11-07-2006 06:48 AM

Re: Arrow Direction
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Tore
On the top Valve Lash Adj. Chart by D.Davis I see an arrow that points clockwise, when you look at the rotor spin in the dist it spins C. Clockwise is this correct?

The curved blue arrow is illustrating the direction of engine rotation (when facing the front of your engine after opening the hood). This is also the direction you'll be turning the engine's crankshaft when going through the valve adjustment sequence.

The engine runs clockwise (facing front of engine).
The distributor turns counter-clockwise (as viewed from top).
http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_429-514.htm

jrocco 11-13-2006 10:58 AM

Re: Valve Lash Adjustment Charts
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.c.../valvelash.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_123_full.jpg

Excerpt from Bret Powell's post on setting valve lash with big camshafts:
Adjust the intake when the exhaust starts to open.
Adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost closed...not when it starts to close.

Would't the valve adjustment procedure change when using a performance camshaft?

Wouldn't changes in the duration and intake centerline affect which valves are at the bottom of the lobe?

Danny Cabral 11-14-2006 10:12 AM

Re: Valve Lash Adjustment Charts
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jrocco
Would't the valve adjustment procedure change when using a performance camshaft?

No. (Unless you've done the '2-8' firing order swap, which is only for high output race users who wouldn't use this method for adjusting valves anyway.)
Quote:

Originally Posted by jrocco
Wouldn't changes in the duration and intake centerline affect which valves are at the bottom of the lobe?

No. The valve is still closed on the base circle (bottom of a lobe, as you said) of each lobe.

jrocco 11-15-2006 03:50 PM

OK so I flailed around about 4 times trying to get the valves adjusted right and finally called Comp Cams Tech Support.

So here's the story.

The charts above work for a factory stock cam. Once you install a performance cam you can disregard that information.

This is because the performance cam will have a different duration and different intake centerline that affects which valves are open at a certain point.

So the only way to adjust valve lash on a performance flat tappet hydraulic cam with adjustable lifters is as follows:

Remember EOIC (Exhaust Open - Intake Close)

For each cylinder, roll the crank until the exhaust valve just starts to open (move down) then adjust the intake valve to 0 lash and turn another 1/2 turn.

Then roll the crank until the Intake just starts to close (full open and just starting back up) and adjust the exhaust valve to 0 lash and turn another 1/2 turn.

Repeat for each cylinder.

Hope that helps. It worked for me.

Danny Cabral 11-16-2006 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrocco
The charts above work for a factory stock cam. Once you install a performance cam you can disregard that information.

This is because the performance cam will have a different duration and different intake centerline that affects which valves are open at a certain point.

Wrong! What size camshaft are you using?
When adjusting valves, you are on the base circle of each camshaft lobe. The lift, duration and separation angle are on the opposite end of the lobe...so why the heck would it matter (unless it's a radical cam with enormous lift and duration)? If your valves are open on the base circle of your camshaft, you've got a serious problem!

http://www.webcamshafts.com/images/diagram.gif

You're the first person that I've heard have a problem with the chart. Then you say it doesn't work with performance camshafts? I've got news for you...I wouldn't have posted this if it only worked with stock camshafts. Furthermore, I could care less what the Comp Cams 'tech guy' thinks he knows. I often link this page as a reference for others and now it's infiltrated with this useless dialogue!

jrocco 11-16-2006 10:21 AM

Hi Danny
I did not mean to create a big argument here about valve adjustments or to upset you in any way. I was only trying to pass on the experience I had to help others that may have the same problem.

In my particular case the Comp Cams method solved a bogging problem that I was having above 5,000 RPM. When I set the valves using the Car Domain method, my engine pulled hard to 5,000 RPM then fell on its knees.

It only makes sense (to me at least) that the cam grind and how the cam is degreed on installation will affect when the valves are on the base circle of the cam as compared to the 0 reference point on the balancer.

If the cam is installed 4 degrees advanced or retarded, would not the base of the cam be 4 degrees off when the balancer is on 0?

Refering to the Car Domain chart, when you set the balancer on 0 and adjust No 1 intake, No 1 exhaust, No 7 Intake, etc, on a cam that is installed 4 degrees advanced you are not on the lowest point of the cam.

It also follows that different cam grinds affect the overlap of the intake and exhaust valves, so again the low point of the cam lobes can be different relating to 0 on the damper.

For all of those reasons I found that the EOIC method guaranteed having the cam lobe at the correct position to adjust the valve. After using that method, my engine pulled hard all the way to 6500 RPM when I shifted.

4604X4 06-16-2012 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrocco (Post 546537)
Hi Danny



It only makes sense (to me at least) that the cam grind and how the cam is degreed on installation will affect when the valves are on the base circle of the cam as compared to the 0 reference point on the balancer.

If the cam is installed 4 degrees advanced or retarded, would not the base of the cam be 4 degrees off when the balancer is on 0?

Refering to the Car Domain chart, when you set the balancer on 0 and adjust No 1 intake, No 1 exhaust, No 7 Intake, etc, on a cam that is installed 4 degrees advanced you are not on the lowest point of the cam.

.

Just to point out that whether the crank is rotated to "0" or "350" or "10" degrees the cam will still be on the base circle because the number of degrees of crank rotation from TDC (on compression stroke) is much more than 4 degrees. In other words when the engine is at TDC the valves don't start to move with just 4 degrees of crank movement. The base circle is from #9 to #6 on the profile drawing (actually a little more).

D Pope 06-16-2012 09:51 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's the cam profile chart for a 304 degree Isky solid cam. You can see that the valves are both closed for around 240 degrees. If you allow a bit for the clearance takeup ramp you'll still have around 200 degrees to work with. This won't change much with any camshaft. The valves can't be open on the power or compression strokes. That's why that chart has to work. Anybody who claims it won't better go back to elementary motor mechanics!!

jeffgfg 06-16-2012 10:09 AM

I used this method for years on my 1970 Torino with a 429SCJ. I even put marks on the balancer so it was quicker to hit the marks. Just an interesting note my cam was advanced I think 8 degrees as per the Ford Muscle parts instructions and it always worked for me with over 30,000 street and racing miles on it. Wish I had that car back!!


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