For that sort of rpm level I think you would be a lot better with a full .001 less bearing clearance. Since you're at .010 on your bearings and crankshaft you have two options as Randy said, getting another crank and having it ground to fit your block, in your case .009 undersize. Or have it line honed to make the housings .001 smaller than they are right now.
Furthermore with the way bearings are nowadays, in terms of quality control in regards to sizing, you can probally go buy a different brand of .010" bearings, say Federal Mogul for example, and come up with a totally different set of dimensions. Then if you consider coated and uncoated bearings, that will change things again.
We cannot build an engine around here, without having several sets of bearings on hand to choose from. It's a trial and error deal nowadays, and I don't care if it's a Ford, Chevy or Mopar engine that you are building.
The performance enthusiast who is building his own engine, and is the type of guy who maybe builds only one engine in three or four years, should NOT expect that one set of rod and main bearings that comes in a stroker kit from Hawks, Flatlander or others, is going to provide the correct clearances out of the box.
Before you go adjusting your block main journal i.d. smaller, or before you go find another crankshaft, may I suggest that you buy another set of bearings, of a different brand and try them.
I already had a big difference between the MS 1039 P and the MS 1039 V. Both from clevite but found out that the eccentricity is different. Don't know the V is with a 10 undersize avalible or not.
When I do stroker kits I offer an exhange on bearings for just that reason. I try to keep the odd sizes in stock - but for a .010 under crank you are in trouble. Line hone or another crank...
I set up .009s and .011s for the Chevy stuff back when I was at F-M, but they were not going to let me do that for the less popular applications
:lol: Ok guys, I am missing something here. How can you make the block journals smaller by honing? And are his tolerances between the block and bearings, or between the bearings and cranks? I would think they are between the bearings and the crank!?! I know I sound ignorant, but I am not a pro, I am just a little confused. I'm thinking that if you put the caps on and torque them down, then hone the block, you are going to make the "hole" bigger?!?!?! :roll: Please, tell me what I am missing!!!!!! :roll:
He cuts a little bit off the main cap first - then hones the hole to a slightly smaller diameter - more bearing crush and hopefully a teeny bit tighter clearance....
Ok, Got it. :lol:
I did a search and was checking out some of the machines, Kinda thought about it after i asked and thought you might do that but I wasn't really sure.
King makes an .009"....you may want to check with them...they may offer a .011" also .
You could have a set of .010" coated...it'll take uo about .0005"
Your crank is dead on what I want my grinds and new cranks to mic. About 5 tenths under is what I consider perfect. After checking thousands of factory cranks for many years, this is what is coming out of the factories as the typical std. What they have and we do not is a full stock of hand fit bearings. For my own use I love .003 to .0035 but I do not use ant piss for oil.
Van
Set MB5242HP lists .011 Bearing
This set is 3/4 grooved.
Is that set OK?
I also see Set MB5512SI full grooved like my originals. It says "all undersizes" but does not specifically list .011's like the 1st set. So I don't know if they are available.
I am confused and would like Lem, Barry or Randy to help me understand.
I would have though that IF I had a crank (.010/.010) that was turned too small or a main saddle that was honed too large and I was trying to take up the extra clearance with a +.001 bearing that I would need a .011 bearing if my clearances were too large (or a .009 if my clearances were too tight).
Help me understand why everyone is talking about a .009 bearing to solve this problem.
Thanks again - it is just curiosity for me as I am just trying to continue to learn and understand from the experts here.
My apologies, I'm lifting info from this thread for my own purposes. I have too tight of main clearance (.0015-.002). That's why I was inquiring about the .009 sized bearings.
King makes an .009"....you may want to check with them...they may offer a .011" also .
You could have a set of .010" coated...it'll take uo about .0005"
I was pretty sure that was what Lem meant in his earlier reply.
I know the he knows what he was talking about - so my question was "WHY" do they number them that way when it seems backwards to the less informed.
Is there a reason that they came up with this wonderfully intuiative numbering system? The best reason I can come up with is it is a .010 under bearing (-.010) that they have add .001 extra material to. But IF the bearing is for a .010 under crank - then you would expect it to have .010 more material than a standard crank bearing - wouldn't you? Then if you added another .001 to that wouldn't it be .011?
I guess it is just one of those things that you have to remember is backwards in life.
King makes an .009"....you may want to check with them...they may offer a .011" also .
You could have a set of .010" coated...it'll take uo about .0005"
A .010 under crank means that the journal has been machine down undersized by .010".
Accordinally you should order a .010 undersized bearing. That bearing is thicker than the original to allow for the undersized crank and maintain original bearing clearances.
In my case I have excessive clearance so I am looking for a bearing that is a little thicker than a .010" under bearing. Thus a .011" under bearing would be a little thicker than a .010 under bearing and give me the proper clearance.
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