Installed a custom valve body (full auto) on my C6 a few months ago. Rear main seal started leaking a little. Kept getting worse. Checked the crank end play and the thrust is wiped on the rear side. Is this a coincidence? What do I need to check on the tranny to make sure the converter is not pushing on the crank?
Cooler line/ Converter pressure at the front line to the cooler, + check the converter hasn't ballooned , as in has freeplay or can be pushed back into the trans when unbolted.
Unusual for a C6 to do this
Thanks for the reply Greg. I flushed and cleaned the lines and cooler yesterday because I thought I had heard someone in the past mention this. The fluid was clean and I could blow through easily. The converter had about 1/4" play backwards after unbolting it from the flexplate. Is that too much?
Need to see what the pressure is in the cooler circuit. If that's high it maybe pushing the converter forward pushing towards the thrust.
1/4" is prob a bit much if that's what you have. most sources say 1/8-3/16" You can pull the converter too far out as well but in your case with good clearance is not causing your thrust issue.
Would you recommend putting a pressure gauge in the cooler line to check? What is the max safe pressure? Which of the lines coming out of the tranny are pressure and return?
I wiped the thrust on my 347/c4 combo a few years ago. I had added a second cooler inline. I used a short line to connect the 2 coolers. When I took it apart to fix the thrust I re-routed the lines and used a longer line to connect the coolers (larger Radius) Haven't had an issue for 4 years now. If the converter hasn't balooned then It's most likely a restriction in the cooler circuit
You need to tee into the line from the front of the trans to the cooler . See what you have . Will likely see anywhere between 20-65 psi
Good point above also , a restriction in the lines somewhere or on the return could be a cause
Yeah thanks for the tip ustahava67. I'll check to make sure the lines aren't kinked or have too sharp of bends. Greg do you think a pressure reading while the engine is revved a little in neutral will be accurate or does it need to be while driving?
Yes that will work fine . Take a reading at idle and say up to around 3000RPM will be sufficient. Actual pressure doesn't matter , it is more looking to see if it is something silly that's way higher than it should be .
I'm having the same issue and getting ready to start the motor back up after fixing it. Did you have any luck in figuring out the problem?
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