This is my first new thread. I'll see if I can figure it out with pics and all???
Humble beginnings ----- I know non of you guys have had projects start out like this ha ha. ----- This is my 10 second car project that got out of hand with a little help from my FREINDS ????
The math is not that difficult. You just need to remember to add the pedal ratio with the bell crank ratio. If the bell crank arms are the same length from the pivot point the ratio is 1 to 1 and adds nothing to the pedal ratio but if the arms are different length that ratio needs to be considered. This may look like the coolest thing in the world but when it is all together and checked with a pressure gauge at the calipers. If the pressures are not right and can't be fixed. We just have an other addition to the scrap pile. Don't think there will be a problem but stuff like this needs to be checked and confirmed. ---- Q
Thanks gasser.
Gydyup -- When I got to the shop I looked all over to try and find the patterns made out of poster board. Couldn't locate them so no pics. Every thing was laid out with paper doll cut outs and a scribe was used as a pivot point to check out travels and arcs. This was the trial and error part and there was adjustments. When satisfied with the lay out it was then transferred to 4130 tube and plate.--- Q
Got side tracked for a few days helping a buddy straighten out bump steer --- align --- scale --- and make up some wheelie bars for his new all fiberglass tube frame truck. Interesting project --- 5.9 Cummins with Pro Charger/Turbo compounding. His old car was a 5.9 altered w/Twin Turbos that ran a best ET in the 8.40's. --- Q
Lower side hammer form cutout and edge radius put in with router.
Upper and lower hammer forms made from scrap clamped together with aluminum panel sandwiched in between.The tools in the picture are the tools used to form the dome above the head for max head room.
Lower side of the form that is actually the top of the part.
The dome in the panel is just below the top of the cage.
The finished frame ready to be sent to Innovative Safety Products www.ispseats.com.
That is one sick build, your killing me. I had a 63 Mercury Meteor 2 door post for 12yrs that I backyard restored starting at the age of 21. It was built on the 62-64 Fairlane chassis. I'm a sucker for the 62-64 "post" cars.
One of the things I like about this era body styling is the distinctive shape and detail. You could identify make and model from a couple blocks away. Not like today where so many of the cars all look alike. Heck I can't even tell the Foreign cars from the Domestic car any more. Then of course how much of your new Ford economy car is Mazda ???? ---Q
Drive shaft Tube and drive shaft Loops with removable top.
Mark Williams aluminum drive shaft that is glued together. It came with a tag showing a 3000 ft lbs test and a SFI tag.
Tube/loops top.
Vew from rear end forward. The through tubes in the top 4 link tube access the upper frame rails. The left is for the fire bottle line and the right for the starter cable and exits just forward of the starter.
That is some genius. The template and hammering the head piece, I just picked up a new tool for my stuff. Ive been wondering how I could shape metal for a shifter box. Thanks.
Gydyup;
You may want to pull up Flow Forming part 1 and 2 on you tube video. It gives more ideas of what can be done. It is not necessary to use a rivet gun its just faster than a hammer and forming tool.
Derek;
About the welding you can do it. Its just -- practice -- practice --- practice.
The Mark Williams aluminum bonding process is called Accu-Bond bond and I believe it is a patented process. --- Q
The forming tool mentioned above is nothing more than a piece of wood,aluminum or plastic shaped for the job that you hit with the hammer. It allows you to get into the tight areas easier. --- Q
On the ground for the first time. Sure is good to stand back --- look at the car and see that it sets right and all the figuring and all the work came out as planned.
Next we start the tin work. Starting with the cowl and cowl transition to the firewall.
Thanks ------- As the car moves through its different stages the more and more I like it. It has evolved ----- waaaaaay ----- past the original idea for this car.
Cowl skin underside
The cowl opening closed in on both sides of center that will be cut out for carb access and also the wiper pockets filled in.
The underside panel cut --- fit --- and held in place with clamps for welding.
The cowl / Firewall transition is made from 22 gauge cold rolled steel.
The center cutout is boxed in and will be covered by the rear of the hood scoop
Transfer punch and ring adapter used to pickup tube centers for knockout punches.
bead and brake line layout.
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