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Driveline Transmission, Clutch, Gearing, etc...

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  #16  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:01 PM
fordman1979 fordman1979 is offline
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Default fly wheel balance

the route i ended up going was to take the fly wheel and get it neutral balanced a local machanice shop did it fiorm cost me 90 bucks i have tried it yet to see how it works still assembling the truck where are you located i can give you the info on the shop that did mine and you could ship to them if you want im on the ohio pa border
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  #17  
Old 03-21-2013, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Death Dealer 86 View Post
I will be doing the same thing! tho I have a 86 460 and dont have a ZF yet but am hoping I can find what I need in this thread soon?
You'll need:

-Externally balanced flywheel (since your 460 is 79+ year model)

-Hydraulic slave cylinder and master cylinder w/ hydraulic lines out of a ZF equipped truck that had a 460

-Clutch assembly as well

-Correct starter

You might have to check the length of the complete trans and transfer case (if 4x4) to determine if you have to lengthen or shorten the driveshaft unless you can find one for a ZF. Also check the crossmember..you might have to drill it OR move it back.
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2013, 11:23 PM
nitetrain nitetrain is offline
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we did this swap in our 79 f250, was an auto before & put the zf from a early f450 in it. zero balanced the flywheel, used the master cyl & tubing from the 450, had to fab the clutch pedal anyway cause of the auto in it before. transfer case bolted right up to trans after we took parking brake off it. makes a real nice swap for a street/ pulling trk
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:26 PM
nitetrain nitetrain is offline
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bout forgot, did have to modify crossmember some, also using centerforce daulfriction clutch with no problems
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:15 AM
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Did you notice any miles per gallon gain or was it the same?

How did you modify the crossmember? Drill out a hole? I dont want to move mine since it will interfere with the radius arm bracket.




What about driveshaft? Did it bolt up or you had to make it longer/shorter?


I have a c6 with np203 and plan to run my zf5 with a np208 (may switch to a bw1356 later on)...just wondering if i have to get a new driveshaft.


I got a clutch pedal assembly with brake and it might work.
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  #21  
Old 04-11-2013, 05:12 PM
nitetrain nitetrain is offline
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got a 203 case on the back,the trans mount is back further, welded plate to orig. crossmember &drilled for the mounting bolts. changed to 1410 yokes, so made a new driveshaft anyways, after twisting off two pinions on the dana, put a 14 bolt gm rear in it & converted it to disk brakes. still have the 44 in front with no issues, as for milage, it depends on who is driving, with 36s onit & 4.88s, i can get around 10, but im gettn old &slow any more. we street drive it in the summer & pull in the locale pulls,
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  #22  
Old 04-24-2014, 09:10 PM
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maritimer95gt maritimer95gt is offline
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Holy crap! This is the thread I needed. I have a D9TE casting out of a 78 motor home sitting in a 65 F100. Exactly what do I need to convert the old C6 setup to a ZF5? does anyone know what truck years had the 460 2wd with the ZF5 so that I can find the proper gear to run the clutch?
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2014, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maritimer95gt View Post
Holy crap! This is the thread I needed. I have a D9TE casting out of a 78 motor home sitting in a 65 F100. Exactly what do I need to convert the old C6 setup to a ZF5? does anyone know what truck years had the 460 2wd with the ZF5 so that I can find the proper gear to run the clutch?
late 80s to 96 i think.

What you need to do is what I am going to have the guy I know doing it is going to do.

The firewall needs to be braced because the hydraulic clutch will make the firewell bow and eventually crack.


I got a L&L flywheel for the swap. It was suppose to be for the np435 swap but is 12" clutch that is internally balanced.

The crossmember shouldn't be to hard to figure out.
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2014, 10:18 PM
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The firewall cracking was a common problem on the 7.3idi equipt trucks. Ford made two reinforcement parts, a large and small for this purpose.

When I had my 89 F250 I made one out of some scrap metal I had laying around, worked just fine.
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:42 AM
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After checking prices, I think I'm going to run with a C6. I'm trying to get this thing put together as fast as possible and changing the set-up around is not going to save me any time. I still haven't found a ZF5 that is rated to hold more than 750ft/lbs like the c6 I'm planning on getting. The twin turbo set-up is more important to me than having a manual trans. Sacrifices, sacrifices...
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2014, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maritimer95gt View Post
After checking prices, I think I'm going to run with a C6. I'm trying to get this thing put together as fast as possible and changing the set-up around is not going to save me any time. I still haven't found a ZF5 that is rated to hold more than 750ft/lbs like the c6 I'm planning on getting. The twin turbo set-up is more important to me than having a manual trans. Sacrifices, sacrifices...
Well diesel engines run the ZF5 and the ZF5 models rated from 420 to 470 ft/lbs of torque and many diesel engines can produce way more than that and people still run the ZF5 with no problems.
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2014, 12:24 AM
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With that kinda power, are there aftermarket clutch options that would work? I think that would be more of an issue than the transmission.

But I never had anywhere near that kinda power being put to one.

I will say, in my F250, going from a c6 to a zf5 (2wd) driveshaft was exactly 11inches too short.
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2014, 09:18 PM
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Probably a gold Luk clutch or Centerforce.
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