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  #76  
Old 11-23-2013, 07:36 AM
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Just read through your whole thread and it looks like you had your share of ups and downs for sure.

My engine came with the tci engine plate and it is 1/4" but I didn't have a flex problem at starter because of where my mounts are. It is stiff as a wedding night pr*ck!!! I did run into a problem with my torque converter being bad so I ordered a billet, double balloon plate converter from Competition Transmissions (running blower and nos) and they asked me the thickness of my plate and welded the converter tabs on so they were spaced properly and no washers were needed. I'm running a P/G with a TH350 style converter. While doing it I did find where original owner and project starter used a stock ford flex plate drilled for a turbo 350 converter pattern and the holes were RIGHT ON THE BEND IN THE PLATE.... the one that is for strength. That freaked me out. So I got a new J.W. plate with all 3 bolt patterns in it. I couldn't believe they did that with a 466 running a blower. The tranny it's self looked like something from the junkyard with a pro-tree brake put in it and it never seemed to get my power from the crank to the 33" M/T's... even with an accidental 25 PLUS lbs of blower boost on my last 2 passes. So next weekend I'm running to NY to Comp Trans and picking up my new P/G and dropping off my injection system to be converted to alcohol.

I had to laugh about the MPG thing. After I installed my Enderle injection I was getting GPM!!!! Literally! On racing gas, to make a 1/4 mile run, including warm up, tire burn out, pass and back to my trailer (1/2 mile round trip), I was burning 2 gals of fuel at 8.50 a gallon. That is 4 GPM.... NOT MPG! LOL

And now I am going to alcohol which burns colder, has higher octane BUT uses 3 times MORE than gas. So I will be lucky to make the 1/2 mile loop on 4-5 gallons. So I am told. Another good point is even at 3:1, alky is still cheaper than racing fuel.

Maybe I should look into an OD trans

Good thread though and I can see it helped a lot of guys out. I just got a kick on the fuel mileage part

Good luck to ya and have a good one!!!!!!

Auggie (ag460torino)
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  #77  
Old 11-23-2013, 07:33 PM
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Custom my truck has been sitting on the hoist for month... I changed converter and had a used billet converter from a friend rebuilt... the The rebuild did not work out no TCC lockup wont work... Called the converter company and they said they would sent out a new converter... Got the new converter and the bolt pattern was wrong contacted the converter company and he said he would send out another converter haven't receive it yet should be here tues... this converter up grade has been a pita. but cold so I got all winter...
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  #78  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick 52 View Post
Custom my truck has been sitting on the hoist for month... I changed converter and had a used billet converter from a friend rebuilt... the The rebuild did not work out no TCC lockup wont work... Called the converter company and they said they would sent out a new converter... Got the new converter and the bolt pattern was wrong contacted the converter company and he said he would send out another converter haven't receive it yet should be here tues... this converter up grade has been a pita. but cold so I got all winter...
Sounds like none of the new converters are locking up... How can that be? I mean I find it mind boggling that all these converters and most new that just don't work... These ppl do build converters for a living right? Lol.

Are you sure your trans isn't the problem? That would make the most since none of the converters are working. Did you replace or check the oring on the end of the input shaft? Is the lock up solenoid functioning correctly? Lock up wiring?
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  #79  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ag460torino View Post
Just read through your whole thread and it looks like you had your share of ups and downs for sure.

My engine came with the tci engine plate and it is 1/4" but I didn't have a flex problem at starter because of where my mounts are. It is stiff as a wedding night pr*ck!!! I did run into a problem with my torque converter being bad so I ordered a billet, double balloon plate converter from Competition Transmissions (running blower and nos) and they asked me the thickness of my plate and welded the converter tabs on so they were spaced properly and no washers were needed. I'm running a P/G with a TH350 style converter. While doing it I did find where original owner and project starter used a stock ford flex plate drilled for a turbo 350 converter pattern and the holes were RIGHT ON THE BEND IN THE PLATE.... the one that is for strength. That freaked me out. So I got a new J.W. plate with all 3 bolt patterns in it. I couldn't believe they did that with a 466 running a blower. The tranny it's self looked like something from the junkyard with a pro-tree brake put in it and it never seemed to get my power from the crank to the 33" M/T's... even with an accidental 25 PLUS lbs of blower boost on my last 2 passes. So next weekend I'm running to NY to Comp Trans and picking up my new P/G and dropping off my injection system to be converted to alcohol.

I had to laugh about the MPG thing. After I installed my Enderle injection I was getting GPM!!!! Literally! On racing gas, to make a 1/4 mile run, including warm up, tire burn out, pass and back to my trailer (1/2 mile round trip), I was burning 2 gals of fuel at 8.50 a gallon. That is 4 GPM.... NOT MPG! LOL

And now I am going to alcohol which burns colder, has higher octane BUT uses 3 times MORE than gas. So I will be lucky to make the 1/2 mile loop on 4-5 gallons. So I am told. Another good point is even at 3:1, alky is still cheaper than racing fuel.

Maybe I should look into an OD trans

Good thread though and I can see it helped a lot of guys out. I just got a kick on the fuel mileage part

Good luck to ya and have a good one!!!!!!

Auggie (ag460torino)
That's pretty sweet, I'm glad u swapped out that flexplate! The 1/4" plate would have been fine if I didn't have to trim it at all but I trimmed off a good bit but still within TCIs minimum specs.

Well in ur application fuel mileage is pretty horrible. I'm not sure why u went with alcohol vs E85, the latter is cheaper and has a pretty high octane rating. Either way they both require more fuel to be consumed.

I really like the idea of the GV unit, but on the C6 u need to remove the output shaft to use there own output shaft. So that requires complete disassembly of the trans to do the swap. Plus they still don't have a lockup. But if I was building an all out crazy racer and wanted more gears I would def go with the GV unit.
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  #80  
Old 11-24-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird View Post
Sounds like none of the new converters are locking up... How can that be? I mean I find it mind boggling that all these converters and most new that just don't work... These ppl do build converters for a living right? Lol.

Are you sure your trans isn't the problem? That would make the most since none of the converters are working. Did you replace or check the oring on the end of the input shaft? Is the lock up solenoid functioning correctly? Lock up wiring?
the first converter is the only converter that doesn't work the second had the wrong bolt pattern... trans works find the lockup works find. The first converter had a lockup problem when it was send in for a rebuild... I had vortex performance, ptc a now freakshow try to repair it.. trans work find for dragweek and 3500 miles before DW with lockup... I just wanted to drop stall from 4500 to 3600 to try and pick up some mph and ET..
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  #81  
Old 11-25-2013, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick 52 View Post
the first converter is the only converter that doesn't work the second had the wrong bolt pattern... trans works find the lockup works find. The first converter had a lockup problem when it was send in for a rebuild... I had vortex performance, ptc a now freakshow try to repair it.. trans work find for dragweek and 3500 miles before DW with lockup... I just wanted to drop stall from 4500 to 3600 to try and pick up some mph and ET..
Oh I gotcha. Hope they get it right this time! Its wayyy to cold out now. Never got above 30*F today and the wind made 24*F feel like 0*. Im out in a tent in my driveway btw lol. But I managed to get alot done even tho I was an ice cube. Got the trans cooler out to remove all the new TypeF thats in it and snapped a pic to show its size. The trans cooler is in front of the rad which is a 31x19 radiator so the cooler is huge and has 1/2" barb fittings on it. Its off one the those huge super duty trucks prob a F450 or so. I got the cooler out, drained it and filled it with tractor fluid. I then took the cooler lines out a mix of 1/2" push on hose and then 3/8" braided hydraulic hose. I blew those out to get the Type F out and hopefully fixed a leak at one of the remote filter fittings. My Remote trans filter is basically a remote oil filter and I use a Bosch 3500 (oil filter for the BBF) due to its larger capacity and flow. I replaced the one full of type F with a new one and filled it with tractor fluid as well. That way when I start it up the cooler and filter have fluid in it and it helps with circulating fluid faster. So I got the trans and oil cooler back in the car mounted as well as the rad and cooling fans and my new smaller water pump pulley.

The 2004R I converted to -6an fittings so I reused my C6 lines which had -6an high flow 90* bends on them into 3/8" steel/cloth braided hydraulic hose. Due to the increased OD of the hydraulic hose I used the hydraulic Steel fitting that slides over the outer part of the hose and then used the high flow aluminum barb/90* that screws into it and into the ID of the hose. Since the steel Hydraulic fittings are the exact same threading and such as the car aluminum stuff. Otherwise the aluminum part that slides over the hose wouldn't fit. I took a pic but through a header tube so its hard to see. I needed to shorten the inlet line from the cooler since the C6 fitting is at the back of the trans (GM are both up front) I decided not to shorten it as if I ever decided to go back to the C6 i would have to replace the line then. The fittings huge the case nicely.

I installed the stock monte carlo 2004R dipstick into the case and found that it sticks really high up in the engine compartment and looks rather funny lol. Sticks about 5" over the top of my tall fabricated valve covers. Not sure what Im going to do about that... but I know I dont like the aftermarket lokar stuff since they are soo hard to read.
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File Type: jpg 2004R cooler line fittings.jpg (82.0 KB, 11 views)
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  #82  
Old 11-25-2013, 12:16 AM
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On a side note I made the decision to go with EFI. Thought about selling the carb stuff to help with costs but prob wont just in case I decide I want to back or use on something else since its only got 500 miles on the stuff and I would loose too much trying to sell it.

Going to go with the base fast EFI 2.0 system, modify my stock distributer (if it doesnt work i will have to buy there distributer which is like $347). Im also going to use a -6 feed line and keep my original -10 return. The -6 feed should support 650-800hp so im cool with that and It helps keep costs down. I just purchased a Accel DFI fuel pump that flows 70GPH at 45psi and is rated to 875hp and got it for pretty cheap. This should bring my EFI total swap at alittle less than $2600 total without their distributer.
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  #83  
Old 12-02-2013, 07:04 PM
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Got the new driveshaft in today and man is she pretty. About 5" longer than the C6 one I had. Both are the same 3" OD Denny's Nitrous ready driveshafts with 1350 u joints.
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  #84  
Old 12-02-2013, 08:01 PM
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So out of curiosity how much do they charge for a driveshaft like that?

D


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  #85  
Old 12-02-2013, 09:45 PM
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i'm probably looking for trouble with the shaft i'm using... It's from the junk yard its been working hope it stay that way... been 10.81 @ 126 in a #3870 truck.
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  #86  
Old 12-02-2013, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dman64 View Post
So out of curiosity how much do they charge for a driveshaft like that?

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Right now they are having a sale, normally they are $475 fully balanced, spicer yoke, spicer solid 1350 u joints and 3" "secret steel" and they are unbreakable. If you break it they give u a whole new shaft free. They are on sale for $445 but I paid only $380 bc I already bought the slip yoke from them to set up the trans so they deducted it from the price.

Edit: heres the site listing for the nitrous ready driveshaft http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c1_n...iveshafts.html They have great customer service and denny is a cool guy.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
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i'm probably looking for trouble with the shaft i'm using... It's from the junk yard its been working hope it stay that way... been 10.81 @ 126 in a #3870 truck.
haha thats scary. hope u got at least a driveshaft safety loop.
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  #88  
Old 12-04-2013, 08:53 AM
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haha thats scary. hope u got at least a driveshaft safety loop.
your right on that... I do have a loop in the front should put one in rear... I broke a shaft in my Malibu years ago and had a front loop and no rear the shaft snapped the trans in half when flinging around cost me a 400 trans plus the track was down 1 1/2 hr. for clean up it broke the case off behind the pump what a mess.
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  #89  
Old 12-04-2013, 11:29 PM
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your right on that... I do have a loop in the front should put one in rear... I broke a shaft in my Malibu years ago and had a front loop and no rear the shaft snapped the trans in half when flinging around cost me a 400 trans plus the track was down 1 1/2 hr. for clean up it broke the case off behind the pump what a mess.
ouch… i hate when the track is down! Id be looking to add another loop while the trans is out lol. Or get a better shaft.
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  #90  
Old 12-05-2013, 11:56 AM
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Quick 52 there's a 3" shaft for sale in the auction section. 54" so u could shorten it.
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