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  #136  
Old 03-12-2014, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel View Post
add some gas,.....
I think that his machine uses flux core wire.
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  #137  
Old 03-12-2014, 08:26 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel View Post
add some gas,.....
Can't afford a gas welder and especially if I am just trying to learn and see if I want to pick up the hobby or not. Will just stick with my mig welder
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  #138  
Old 03-12-2014, 08:26 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp40 View Post
I think that his machine uses flux core wire.
You would be correct
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  #139  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:32 PM
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I did most of mine with flux core and it worked fine. I did rent a tank and added gas to mine near the end as it just is easier but with that being said flux core will get the job done.

Best advice I ever got was when it sounds like bacon sizzling you have it just right. And who doesn't like bacon??

D


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  #140  
Old 03-13-2014, 09:20 AM
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Flux core works fine on the floors, where your gonna hide the weld under seam sealer etc.

If you get into quarter panel work, it will indeed work but it will near double your prep time after you weld it. Also, gas gives you a much cleaner weld, its blowing the impurities away from your weld area. With flux core you will end up with a bunch of pin holes.

Be sure your using small wire, like 25. That makes a huge diff on finishing up the surface after you weld.

Bacon Sizzling - thats it D! I use that analogy teaching folk to weld every time.

But remember, when welding 18 - 22 ga car panels your really not welding. Your tacking, and I only hit it no more than it takes to get fussion, about the time it gets glowing, is right before it blows through. I hit it, really quick, touch it with a damp rag, move to the opposite side, hit it. Like tightening the wheel on a car, move around opposities. When I do panels its not really bacon frying its more a BZZZT move BZZZT move. Then just fill in the gap until you have full coverage.
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Last edited by Gydyup; 03-13-2014 at 09:25 AM.
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  #141  
Old 03-17-2014, 07:27 AM
Bigred69 Bigred69 is offline
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But remember, when welding 18 - 22 ga car panels your really not welding. Your tacking, and I only hit it no more than it takes to get fussion, about the time it gets glowing, is right before it blows through. I hit it, really quick, touch it with a damp rag, move to the opposite side, hit it. Like tightening the wheel on a car, move around opposities. When I do panels its not really bacon frying its more a BZZZT move BZZZT move. Then just fill in the gap until you have full coverage.


Exactly.
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  #142  
Old 03-17-2014, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigred69 View Post
But remember, when welding 18 - 22 ga car panels your really not welding. Your tacking, and I only hit it no more than it takes to get fussion, about the time it gets glowing, is right before it blows through. I hit it, really quick, touch it with a damp rag, move to the opposite side, hit it. Like tightening the wheel on a car, move around opposities. When I do panels its not really bacon frying its more a BZZZT move BZZZT move. Then just fill in the gap until you have full coverage.


Exactly.
Oh, big one. Do the corners last! As you work around its going to pull/move, I leave a little extra on the corners, radius the corners too. Squares dont want to line up well.
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  #143  
Old 03-24-2014, 04:07 PM
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Any progress?
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  #144  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:42 AM
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Hey, guys! I SUCK at figuring out these forums, except to find the right topic, and even that is rough on me, alot of times! I need serious help here, PLEASE! I a 68 Torino, Fairlane edition, and i bout an 87 460/C6 combo from a F250 truck. The engine/tranny combo only have 57,000 ORIGINAL miles on them, and I DON'T plan on going hog-wild with this, until I can afford it, and the engine starts to show some wear. I bought motor mounts (engine side) from a Mark 3 lincolon, running the 429, and left the 289 stock lowers in, as the research I've done says I can........
The big issue I am having now, is my stock 87 460 oilpan. It's front sump, and DEEP, but, that's tyhe problem! I was told this is the right pan to do this swap, but it doesn't fit. It hits the crossmember, and needs around 2-3 more inches, to go in where it needs to sit. Should I buy the correct pan, and, if so, which one do I need? OR, do I attempt to modify the pan I have, that has the drain plug at the lower rear, right where it hits? EVerything else has been thought out, planned, replanned, and fits correctly, EXCEPT the oil pan.
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  #145  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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Not sure how you wound up here, delete your post and open up a new thread by hitting, " new thread"
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Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311
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  #146  
Old 03-27-2014, 04:31 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel View Post
Any progress?
No progress yet I have been working way too much
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  #147  
Old 03-29-2014, 10:23 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Israel View Post
Any progress?
Got a compressor and sand blaster and going to try stripping all the paint off so I can see what the body looks like under all that paint.
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  #148  
Old 03-29-2014, 11:22 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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was also trying to look into the best way to stiffen the chassis so that I don't have to worry about the torque and HP causing the frame to flex. Any ideas?
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