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2000 Ford Ranger Build

110K views 430 replies 35 participants last post by  penak 
#1 ·
Building it for the strip not the for the streets putting a mild 460 built mostly off here with used and new parts.The trans c6 the stall still in ? until I get the truck finish and wieght of it.Putting a 12 point roll cage from Applied Racing Technology (A.R.T.) out of Clearwater FL. Goig with a 9in. ford rear with 4 link gears still in ?Going to be moveing the engine back alittle to help with the wieght tranfer and going with motor plates. I know for the mild 460 it is a little over kill, but if go with more cubes and hp later on I want the truck to hadle it with out changing everything.Heres some pics of the truck and when I got the old motor out and dash out of it.







 
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#53 ·
alum sheet matel is the easy part I get it from work I can brake it at work my buddy has a bead roller was thinking .030 for the floor for wieght but i think .050 will hold up alittle better but it is almost twice as heavy but with all the wieght loss on it I don't think a extra 15# will hurt.
 
#56 ·
Just got alittle update on the build got the skins hung and tailgate on got to do some more bracing then I will post up some pics maybe a little later this week I will finish the back boy it harder to get over the flu the older you get.
 
#58 ·
.Heres some pics I'm not finished but thats I am going to do until I get the 4 link and rearend under it I still have to do some drilling holer to bolt it to the frame. I will be addins a couple more down the sides but don't want to get any in the way when we start doing the 4 link under it.I have 18" from fender lip to the frame at the top and 14" on the sides so i should be ok if I want to go big tires more than likely going 29"x10.5x15 0r a 30".The tailgate works good the way I got it mounted I wasn't sure if it was going to work right with out some more bracing but it works find the way I got it now.Time I finsh with the back it will way around 200# with the metal in the back .030 smooth alum.









 
#61 ·
I really like the looks of that I might have to hack up my box this winter , I am going ladder bars I am affraid of the 4-link tuning . I think some big fat tires would be sweet even though mine is a sleeper , well when it isnt running anyway.
 
#65 ·
Thanks but it looks like this build is going to be put on hold for a while or until work picks back up just had another cut in pay but atlest I still have a job and I am thankful for that.
got a few things already bought for it I can do to it and than it will be at a stand still.
 
#66 ·
I posted the pics you asked for , sorry to hear about the paycut. I would be layed off myself if it wasnt for stimulas money for high way repairs and stuff . Some people dont like Obama but if not for him I would be sittnig at home unemployed .
 
#69 ·
No haven't had any luck , just going to plug off holes on top and put some kind of filter on the bottom. I know you can't block off all the holes once I figure out witch one to plug and witch ones to put filters on I will let you know
 
#76 ·
Thats right lets see $25 a hour + 9 hr=$225 on 1 header I THINK I can get the other side in 4 hrs. so thats another $100 so that will be $325 labor ,header kit $150,2" j bend pipe $20,and $5 black stove paint =$600 man I glad I don't charge myself or I would be broke everyday of the week
 
#77 ·
Just renounce your citizenship and then you can work for about $2/hr!! Think of the money you'll save!!:D:D

That's pretty good time on a header.

Bill
 
#78 ·
I can't take all the credit Rick help me out alot he helped me figure some of the bends so I can't take all the credit. I would have probley still be working on it or would have had to buy more bends, its good to have a friend that don't mind helping plus use there shop and stuff not many people left like that.An them kind you don't mind helping when they need help on something.
 
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