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Engine Temp

11K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  kenbelanger 
#1 ·
Why is my engine heating up so quick.
572 cubes, 14.5:1 compression. Kaase preped SCJ. Diamond flat top pistons.
Timing set @ 35deg. No thermostat.
Running a CRS water pump and a BeCool siraco style rad with shoud and a 12" fan.

Last fall I ran gas VP C12 after 1 pass and driving back to the pits the water temp was @ 210deg.

Today I switched to alcohol. Pro systems SV1. Running it in the garage for no more than 5 minutes setting the air bleeds and mixture screws, it got hot just as quick as it was on gas.


Am I missing something ?


Ken
 
#5 ·
my 638 does the same thing,i have a 1-in restrictor in the thermostat housing.i run q-16 vp gas,weird smelling stuff.the hottest i seen was 215 at z-max last year but it was 100 outside with 142 track temp.
 
#11 ·
There is an arrow on both sides of the gasget that is to point to the front of the motor.
35° timing on alcohol with those heads is at least 5° to much ignition timing; on the head gaskets, the open water hole in the ends should go to the rear.
Is there an identifier mark on the head gasket that can be seen from outside the motor with the head installed on the block?
 
#7 ·
That scirocco radiator is fairly small, isn't it? With an electric water pump (constant flow) and no thermostat, I'm guessing that the water can't spend enough time in the radiator for it to dissapate much heat. Try a thermostat, and / or a larger radiator.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce
 
#8 ·
35° timing on alcohol with those heads is at least 5° to much ignition timing; on the head gaskets, the open water hole in the ends should go to the rear.
 
#13 ·
my 2 cents

have a 694 ci with 17.28:1 comp, a jegs aluminum rad with electric water pump, 2800 cfm fan and no thermostat. Idle all day at 160. Timing locked at 32. 3 back to back dyno runs and it got to 190.
I think fan cfm is important. Make sure the fan pulls and is on the engine side of the rad. More efficient pulling than pushing ime.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I think what I did worked.
I added a thermostat 180deg. I wanted a 160 but the store didnt have one.
I added the new fan "Perma Cool" 12" and added a seal around the shroud to the rad.
Move the timming back to 30deg.
I ran it for more than 10 mins and the temp got up 210 while on jack stands in a garage.
It took a while before the termostat opened, so it seams to like this setup.

Thanks for everyones input.

Ken
 
#18 ·
I was about to mention the thermostat.

I have ( had ) a 13.8:1 545 A429 heads on methanol. Meziere electric pump and a 192deg hi-flow moroso thermostat. Radiator is 2" thick , 12" wide and 18" tall aluminium.

Warm up in the pits is with pump on but fan off .Car never gets over 160deg even when I lean it out on the shutoff.

Make runs with pump and fan on , never over 200deg .

When i was running C16 , without a thermostat it just kept on going up until it was 230-240deg after a run. Put thermostat in and it pulled it down to 210-220 at the end of a run.

Always run a thermostat if possible.

John
 
#19 ·
engine temp

I am having similar issues I run a pro modified 4x4 pull truck. I have a stewart EMP water pump and griffin rad that is 2 row 22"x13" with a fan that pulls so they say 1600 and change. Engine is a 638 thor head on VP c17 I normally start the engine in the pits to check everyhting and warm up with the fan off and pump on. I have no thermostat and do not no where I could put one but at the end of the run It is over 200. Any suggestions would be great.
 
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